Question about 2005 Suzuki Grasstracker
The First thing you have to NOT DO, is try to start it if it has been sitting for any long duration of time, 6 months or more, second, you have to remove the gas tank, drain the contents, into a can you can see in, look for a dark brown colored corpusal, in the gas, if there is some, that is an indication, that your carbs need to come apart, unless you are a seasoned mechanic, you will have to remove the carb, take the bowl off, of course you will look for the brown couloured substance again, clean the bowl,remove the pin, holding the float in placebeing carfule to secure the needle valve in its proper place after cleaning it thouroughly, remove the jet, using a tiny bit, you reem the jet hole center, taking care not to bore it out, the you run the bit in the jet hole, cleaning any debri that may be there, use carb cleaner and keep spraying it in all in puts and out puts the carb may have, then if you put your mouth to the feul input to the carb, blow in it to be sure it is clear, if not youl have to use carb cleaner and air to clean it out, air and carb cleaner is the key to cleaning it properly, some carbs need to be taken apart and soaked in a carb cleaner, before reassembly, just keep blowing air in all the inputs and out puts, to be sure they are cleared, reassemble and GO
Posted on Nov 10, 2008
I've had good results by boiling a clogged up carb and then cleaning it with toothbrush, toothpicks and individual nylon bristles. The first time I used washing powder (for colored's, because its got less bleach) in an aluminium pan, but that gave the carb body an etched look. Not a real problem but it might have been if I'd done it for longer. The second time I used distilled water in a stainless steel pan with washing-up liquid. Didn't clean so well but it seemed less corrosive. I remove small parts like needles and jets and soak them in carb cleaner in a glass bottle with a metal cap. I don't like spraying carb cleaner around because its quite toxic and not very effective used like that. If you rub the bottle against another one the glass-glass friction generates ultrasonics which MAY help the process. but I've found the jets usually need boiled, blown, and perhaps poked through in addition. I don't have compressed air (the standard blow-through recommendation) available so I use a hypodermic syringe to blast the washing water through. This generates quite a high pressure jet, but, as Lou Read has observed, the needle can do some damage if you arent careful. I think reaming out the jets with a drill bit is an absolute last resort when all else fails. You are VERY likely to damage the jet like that. I use a nylon bristle, or, in extremis, a fine hypodermic needle blowing wash water.
Posted on Jun 05, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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