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Re: Suzuki Goose 350
There is a bloke in Japan running a 644 goose. it's red with a hlaf fairing.
It can be done but it is not easy.
You can bore the standard lump out to 440 and get a cam, bigger carb etc.
On eBay there was a tuned DR lump for sale a week or so ago with a cosworth piston and fancy ignition.
Ever taken the engine out? There's not alot of space between the cylinder head and frame.
a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Mechanic (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
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Like most motors the tstat is located under a goose neck with typically only two blots that the top radiator hose is connected to with a hose clamp, so you drain cooling system, remove top hose, remove goose neck, carefully remove tstat, take note of the direction, scrape old gasket mating areas, clean thoroughly, install new gasket, reinstall goose neck, Do not Over tighten, reinstall top radiator hose, fill system, start vehicle, turn on heat, check for leaks.....
If your generator/alternator keeps burning out the stator coils, it seems that they are being overloaded. Since it occurs over an 8-month period, the load isn't like a short in the wiring, which would cause a fuse to blow. This sounds like a constant heavier than normal load since it takes 8 months to fail. The first thing I would suspect would be the battery. If it had a shorted cell, it would draw more current trying to charge. If this was the case, you'd notice slow cranking, etc. (It's also the easiest to eliminate as a problem) Next thing I'd look at would be the voltage regulator. Something is demanding more power than it should to make the alternator to fail so soon.
The main thing that would cause cracks in the oil pan would be hitting something or bottoming out. Pans range from about 60 ta 125 dollars new for your vehicle. No clue as to where your from or where you live so I cant give you a parts store right off hand, im sure you can order one online, but the price may be a little higher. Let me know if interested and ill see if I can find the best one for you.
The 10th digit in the VIN denotes what the year of the bike is. (as long as it is a 1981 to present)
* Beginning in August 1964 - 1980 a system went into effect that included vehicle model and year within the production serial number. This system defined the first two digits to indicate the model, the third digit indicates the year, with the fourth through tenth digits now defining the actual serial number.
If you call GDL Cycles they can help you. 1-888-707-2787 they also have a service manual available for the Suzuki GS750
Take it to the dealer to have a quick look at it, it could just be either a bit of running in stickyness or they forgot to check something was tightened up properly before you got your hands on it.
Failing that, try an oil additive such as Slick50 in the oil tank, a fuel additive such as Redex in the fuel tank and if the engine's water / liquid cooled (spot the bike expert) stick something like Redline Waterwetter in the coolant tank... and it might feel a bit better (and last longer).