Question about 2005 Suzuki Boulevard S83

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Battery connections loose

I just got a new 07 S83 and the dealer left the negative battery cable loose. It started cutting out just after I topped off the tank and I asumed that I had gotten water in my gas. I added heet and drove it in spite of its objections, but realised after it would not start that it was electrical instead of fuel related. That battery connection is in a terrible place and could see how they left it loose. That does not excuse them though. I am wondering how I will tighten it up when the battery needs to be replaced and the warrenty is out. Has anybody had this problem. Do you know an easy fix?

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I don\´t think they left it loose. I had the same problem with my 2005 after I bought it new. Only it was the positive terminal that came loose. I tightened it as tight as I could with a screw driver and after a bit of riding it came loose again. After quite a few instances, I finally put lock washers on both screws and used a six pointsocket to tighten them. Battery is pretty easy to get out. Drops out the bottom of the box after you take a couple of screws out. I left the cover off after I had to get into it a few times. I thought it was a pretty stupid place for a battery though.

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

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My suzuki s83 2006 won't start. I replace the battery, and new gas and Clean the carbs. Gas is getting to the carbs. New spark plugs . It turns over but dosent run.


Hi, Matt and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
3. Fouled spark plugs.
4. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the enricher.
5. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
6. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
7. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched or kinked.
8. Carburetor float stuck.
9. Fuel injectors clogged.
10. Severely discharged or damaged battery, you need 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
11. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
12. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil, battery or plug between ignition sensor and module.
Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting, cable connections loose, or connected to the wrong cylinders.
13. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or sensors (MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC,or BAS).
14. Faulty neutral, clutch lever, or kickstand safety switch.
15. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
16. Faulty CDI box if applicable.
17. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
18. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
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1 Answer

Wiring diagram


Hi, Anonymous it should be noted that in order to "PROPERLY" diagnosis any electric starter issue it is "IMPERATIVE" that you begin with a fully charged battery 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a proper load test, and the usual suspects are:
1. Battery terminals have loose or corroded connections.
2. Battery cables faulty due corroded or broken internal wiring at the cable connector especially the "NEGATIVE" cable which needs to be checked at "BOTH" ends.
3. Battery voltage, 12.5 volts or better,to the main circuit breaker to the ignition switch to the security/ignition fuse to the TSM/TSSM module to the engine stop/run switch to the starter button to the starter relay to the green wire that connects to the starter solenoid has dropped more than 1/2 volt.
4. With a voltmeter connected to the battery, the ignition switch in the on position, the kill switch in the run position, the starter button depressed, starter engagement should not bring voltage below 8-9 volts.
If a lower voltage is produced a proper battery load test should be performed with a load tester to validate battery integrity or battery replacement.
5. Faulty starter relay, check continuity.
6. Faulty starter solenoid, check contact plate and shoes for excessive electrical erosion/etching, refurbish as necessary or invert contact plate and use the virgin backside. Check contact shoes for being loose. Replace solenoid if the negative function is still a final outcome.
7. Faulty starter, bench test starter with a 12-volt battery if negative function check, decontaminate and undercut armature commutator segments as necessary, check segments with an ohm-meter probe each one and the segment next to it for shorts. Have the armature tested with a growler and field coils, and brush plate with an ohm-meter for opens, shorts or grounds. Replace brushes if less than .438" It is generally cheaper to overhaul/refurbish a starter motor than buy a new one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Jun 01, 2014 | 2008 Yamaha V Star 1100 Classic

1 Answer

Replaced battery and starter relay still not starting just clicks


Hi, Fred it should be noted that in order to "PROPERLY" diagnosis any electric starter issue it is "IMPERATIVE" that you begin with a fully charged battery 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a proper load test, and the usual suspects are:
1. Battery terminals have loose or corroded connections.
2. Battery cables faulty due corroded or broken internal wiring at the cable connector especially the "NEGATIVE" cable which needs to be checked at "BOTH" ends.
3. Battery voltage, 12.5 volts or better,to the main circuit breaker to the ignition switch to the security/ignition fuse to the TSM/TSSM module to the engine stop/run switch to the starter button to the starter relay to the green wire that connects to the starter solenoid has dropped more than 1/2 volt.
4. With a voltmeter connected to the battery, the ignition switch in the on position, the kill switch in the run position, the starter button depressed, starter engagement should not bring voltage below 8-9 volts.
If a lower voltage is produced a proper battery load test should be performed with a load tester to validate battery integrity or battery replacement.
5. Faulty starter relay, check continuity.
6. Faulty starter solenoid, check contact plate and shoes for excessive electrical erosion/etching, refurbish as necessary or invert contact plate and use the virgin backside. Check contact shoes for being loose. Replace solenoid if the negative function is still a final outcome.
7. Faulty starter, bench test starter with a 12-volt battery if negative function check, decontaminate and undercut armature commutator segments as necessary, check segments with an ohmmeter probe each one and the segment next to it for shorts. Have the armature tested with a growler and field coils, and brush plate with an ohm-meter for opens, shorts or grounds. Replace brushes if less than .438" It is generally cheaper to overhaul/refurbish a starter motor than buy a new one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Mar 19, 2014 | 2007 Yamaha V Star Custom

1 Answer

How to replace ignition switch 2002 dyna low rider ?


1. Remove seat.

1WARNING

To avoid accidental start-up of vehicle and possible personal

injury, disconnect the battery cables before proceeding.

Inadequate safety precautions could result in

death or serious injury.

WARNING

Always disconnect the negative cable first. If the positive cable should contact ground with the negative cable installed, the resulting sparks may cause a battery explosion which could result in death or serious injury.

2. Disconnect battery cables, negative cable first.

3. Unscrew ignition/light lock ring. Push switch back through hole.

4. Cut switch wires approximately 3.0 in. (76 mm) from switch body. The new switch must be spliced into existing wiring harness using splice connectors.

5. After splicing new switch into wire harness, place switch into position. The word "TOP" is marked on the top of the switch body to allow for proper positioning of switch.

6. Install lock ring to secure switch in place.

Apr 18, 2012 | 2002 Harley Davidson FXDL Dyna Low Rider

1 Answer

New battery fully charged has lost all charge and will not start the bike after about 2 hours use. 2nd battery in 3 days. suzuki boulevard s83


For a battery to go dead on you like that there must be something draining the battery while the vehicle is switched off. It could be something like a which is not switching off or a short across some circuit that does not show up on any light. The first and easiest test is to disconnect the battery negative cable whenever you park the vehicle overnight etc. and see if the battery still runs down.
As a more positive step disconnect the positive lead from the battery and wire a bulb like a tail light bulb, between the terminal and the removed lead. The bulb should light up. Make sure that everything on the vehicle is switched off, the bulb should still be lit. Remove and replace the fuses one by one until the bulb goes out. That is the circuit that is running your battery flat. Check all the components on that circuit until you get the light to stay out and your problem should be fixed.
Check your charging system. With the engine running at about 2000 rpm, a volt meter across the battery terminals should read around 14 to 14.5 volts and drop to about 13.8 volts with the engine at idle. If this does not happen, the charging system may be defective. Even with lights on the voltage should climb, but will drop lower at idle.

Jul 05, 2011 | 2011 Suzuki Boulevard S83

1 Answer

I have a 07 Yamaha R1 and it shuts off when I'm riding. Ive changed the Ecu, the fuel pump, tilt sensor, new battery... I get codes 33,34,35,36 ignition coils. Bike had to sit for about 20- 30...


Hi, Tom and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Air/fuel mixture screw improperly adjusted.
10. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
11. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
12. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
13. Fuel tank empty.
14. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
15. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
16. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
17. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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May 28, 2011 | 2007 Yamaha YZF-R1

1 Answer

Remove battery from 2002 dyna


The Dyna battery can be removed by:
1. Remove the seat.
2. Remove negative connection at frame, and positive connection at battery.
3. Remove the lower rear bolt. (left side of battery box at frame upright)
4. Remove the upper rear bolt, and swing down the battery box.
5. Remove the top cover, nad side cover.
6. Lift battery out, and remove negative cable from battery.

Feb 05, 2011 | 2002 Harley Davidson FXDL Dyna Low Rider

1 Answer

How to get to battery to change it


The Dyna battery can be removed by:
1. Remove the seat.
2. Remove negative connection at frame, and positive connection at battery.
3. Remove the lower rear bolt. (left side of battery box at frame upright)
4. Remove hte upper rear bolt, and swing down the battery box.
5. Remove the top cover, nad side cover.
6. Lift battery out, and remove negative cable from battery.

Jan 20, 2011 | Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide...

2 Answers

Replacing the battery


1. Visually inspect the battery connections and note the location of the positive (+) and negative (-) terminals. 2. Disconnect the negative (-) cable from the battery with a wrench. 3. Disconnect the positive (+) cable. 4. Remove the hold-down clamp which holds the battery in place. 5. Lift out the battery. 6. Inspect the battery tray for corrosion or damage. Clean or replace the tray and attaching parts as needed. 7. Inspect the battery cables for damage. Clean or replace the cables as needed to ensure a good connection. For replacing battery cables, contact your local Interstate Batteries dealer at 1-800-Crank It. 8. Install your new Interstate battery and secure it with the hold-down. Be sure the new battery is the same voltage and group size as your original equipment battery. Check to ensure that it has at least the same cold-cranking amp (CCA) and reserve capacity (RC) ratings as specified by the original equipment manufacturer. 9. Attach the positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal. 10. Attach the negative (-) cable to the negative (-) terminal. Be careful not to over tighten.

Nov 20, 2008 | 2004 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide...

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