This is the second time that the oil fill line in the engine is above full. I had emptied some out when I had first changed the fluids at the 600 mile mark. I had double checked the oil levels for all at 602 miles. All i had to do was empty some engine oil out, and the level was between L and F. I checked the final gear oil, some oil oozed out of there. Which if I am correct, that is how you know the gear box is full. I also check the tranny oil. In that compartment some oil oozed out as well, but it was not very much.
I had also checked levels again at 1000 miles and the oil line was in between the low and full. Today I currently have 1300 miles on my K5 650, and the engine oil is above full again. Can someone tell me why this is happening? I am going to check the transmission oil to see if I am low in there.
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Re: Oil level above full line
It's quite possible that when you fill the motor you are checking the oil level shortly thereafter, i.e. within 10 minutes, or you are filling the oil and checking what the level is BEFORE starting the motor (in this case the oil has not had chance to circulate and drain back in to the sump).
Once the bike stands for an extended period (a couple of hours or overnight) you will find that the oil has drained from the head of the motor, and other places, back into the sump and therefore shows at a higher level in the sight gauge.
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It holds three quarts of engine oil with a filter change. When you change the oil and filter, pour three quarts in the tank and start the engine up for one minute. With the bike still on the side stand, check the oil. The level should be between the lines. Do not "top it off". As long as the level is between the lines, whether the oil is hot or cold, do not add oil. Only add oil if the level goes below the lower line. The top line is "FULL HOT" and the lower line is "FULL COLD".
Your dyna should take three quarts of oil. The oil level will be above the "FULL HOT" mark until you start the engine and fill the new oil filter with oil. Start the engine and run it for one minute. Recheck the oil level with the dip stick. It should be in the safe operating zone. Do not top off the oil level. Do not add oil until it drops to that Add One Quart level.
Well i check my oil hot & i keep it 1/2 way beteween full & add too much pushes oil out breather/ air filter area i thinh youll be fine wash off & watch .. clean a/c A heads up I have gottin good help at harleytalking.con... good luck ';';'; oh yea pressure on mine is at idle is 20 psi 30@ 2000 rpms oil temp 225 hot tom..;';'
To the best of my knowledge, your Duece takes three quarts of oil with a filter change. The transmission holds 20-24 ounces of oil. And, your primary takes 38-44 ounces of oil.
Your oil tank has a dipstick in it. Fill the oil tank until the level is just above the lower line with the bike on the stand. The lower line is "FULL COLD" and the upper line is "FULL HOT". Do not overfill.
The transmission is the same way, On the right side clutch release cover, there's a plug that takes a 3/8" Allen or Hex key to remove. It too has a dipstick marked the same way the oil tank dipstick is marked. Check the oil in the transmission with the bike standing straight up.
In the primary, you fill the oil level to where it just touches the lowest part of the clutch spring. The outer clutch housing is bright aluminum. Inside this is a round dark colored piece of metal. This is the clutch spring. Fill or check the oil with the bike standing straight up. Do not overfill as it will make your clutch drag and you will not be able to find neutral with the engine running.
Sounds like you've overfilled the oil. The stick has two marks on it. The top mark is 'FULL HOT" and the lower mark is 'FULL COLD". If you changed the oil filter, you add three quarts of oil. If you did not change the filter, you only put 2.7 quarts in the tank. The next time the cap blows off, as long as the oil level is above the lower mark, do not add anymore oil and see what happens. As long as the oil level is between the marks, do not add oil. Sportsters are notorious for this. People check the oil before they go riding and "top it off". Bad move. As long as the oil is between the lines when cold, ride the bike to warm it up, and then maybe add a bit if it's low. Do not bring it up to the top line even if the engine is warm. About half way is good enough.
KX125 is a two stroke, no oil filter. either way, on just about evey bike below the filler cap, usuallyon the clutch cover it will say something like 1200cc, this isn't the engine size, it's the oil capacity. on fourstrokes when changing the filter as well you must make sure you put the required amount in, and half fill a screw on filter with oil before fitting so that the engine doesn't run dry for a few seconds after starting. you will have a level window or dip stick so suggest fill up to the level mark, run for a few seconds and check level again. oil will be retaned in galleries so level could drop below mark after first fill.
there is a oil level window on the side of the motor when checking level have motorcycle upright and level you should have a low level line and a full line! pretty much any motorcycle grade oil avoid car oil it's not designed to work in a wet clutch enviroment also remember when changing the oil upright check level and top off oil after running engine 2 to 3 minutes (you have to fill the oil filter) wait 2 to 3 min. before checking level!
Dealer's usually tell you the amount you need if the bike is completely empty. Take a turkey baster and remove some oil, ride the bike and check the oil level again. I have seen to much oil blow the dip stick out and cover everything with oil and I have seen the oil tank split.
Get yourself a good quality tool kit/socket set, in your case for this bike a metric one. Good quality oil (or change sooner, 1500-2500 miles, try Morrisons 10/40), oil filter (every second change), paddock stand, a bin bag and two old 5 litre oil containers. Take one of the containers and cut a 'window' out of one side and place it under the bike and sump, with the bin bag under the oil tin. Level the bike on the stand Warm up the engine and after making sure you can take off the oil top up cap, remove the oil drain bolt (with the correct/tight fitting socket) in the sump (bottom of the engine). Keep upward pressure on it as it gets to the end and make sure any washer fitted comes with the bolt. Allow the oil to drain into your adapted oil container which you've placed under the bolt hole. If your changing the filter now is the time to do it, remember oil will still be in here too so catch as much as you can in your container. Once the oil has drained put the bolt back on (not too tight) and fill to the correct level as indicated in the sight glass or dipstick. Whilst keeping your container level pour the oil into your second 5 litre can (and when full take that to be recycled).