Question about 1975 Yamaha XS 650 B

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Brake line

Had very old brake fluid so we decided to change the fluid. We took all we could through the bleeding nipple but it was coming out too slow so we decided to try draining it through the lines so we took apart the lines and put them back together and then not fluid would come out the nipple at all. What can we do to finish draining the reserve and create pressure in the lines again? Thank you in advance

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You're in for a fun night. You need to start pumping new fluid in. Fill up the reservoir then pump the lever a couple of times to get fluid to start to flow into there. Then... you'll have to bleed them. Pump pump pump, squeeze, open nipple, close nipple, release, pump pump pump, squeeze, open nipple, close nipple, release. Do not let the reservoir empty out. Keep doing this until you get clean brake fluid through the lines and no bubbles. It's going to take a lot of worth though.

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

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I bled my front brakes on my kx 250f 06 and i opened up my brake fluid holder and opened the bleedervalve and pumped the old out and put new in and i did it again then i put the lid on and drained it again...

The screw is an easy fix, take it to a local hardware or auto store and they should have something to replace it with. If you stripped the hole however, you may need to get it re-tapped.

Sounds like you may have air caught in your line from not cracking and pumping the air out after filling the lines.

The following are a few things to think over to see if they might be the problem:

Did you make sure the resovior was full the WHOLE time and topped up as you put the fluid in? Even a tiny amount of air in the lines can cause spongyness.

What Fluid did you use? Was it a DOT3 or DOT4 fluid?

Is the Bleed Nipple done up again tightly?

Did you have enough suction on the bleed nipple as you ran the new fluid through?

Is the resovior full again now that the brakes have fluid in the lines?

Check these things, or try re-bleeding the brakes. Remember to tighten, compress and crack the nipple after running the fluid through to push any air out.

Check the video for a walk through on how to bleed them and crack the air out.

Hope that helps!

Mar 11, 2011 | 2005 kawasaki KX 250 F

2 Answers

I am having a problem bleeding the front brake with the standard method on a Yamaha XT 125, 2005 model, can anyone help?

I may need a bit more clarification, but I am assuming the lever is 'spongy'?
The simplist thing to do first is to tie the front brake lever back (ie make it stay on) using a zip tie. Leave this overnight/24 hours and it will allow the trapped air to rise.
Failing this, you can bleed the brake in reverse. Get a large syringe (ebay/chemist) and some pipe that fits over the bleed nipple and the syringe. Remove the master cylinder cover and **** out (use the syringe) the brake fluid. Now fill the syringe with fresh brake fluid and connect to the bleed nipple on the caliper. Open the bleed nipple and slowly push the syringe in, to force the fluid up to the reservoir. Be careful that the fluid doesent come out of the reservoir and splash on your paint work. Lock the bleed nipple up whilst still slowly forcing the fluid in. This normally works.

Sep 09, 2010 | 2007 Yamaha XT 125 X

1 Answer

Brake fluid change

remove brake fluid resovior cap, get jar and lenght of flexable tube that will fit on bleed nipple of brake calipar, put some brake fluid in jar fit tube to bleed nipple, open nipple and put tube in jar below the surface of the fluid, apply the brake on and off while keeping the lfluid full on the bike, continue untill the new fluid has filled the system and entered the jar, hold the brake lever in when tightening the bleed nipple. test brake works, job done

Apr 24, 2010 | 2002 kawasaki W 650

3 Answers

How to get front brake pressure after changing master cylinder, bleeding didnt help or maybe im not doing it right

vacuum bleeding is best for these brakes. To do it without a vacuum pump you must pull the handle very slowly and pause about three seconds between handle pulls to allow fluid to refill the piston chamber.

Mar 12, 2010 | 2001 Suzuki GSX-R 1000

1 Answer

How do you "bleed" the rear breaks? on a bandit 600? can anyone help?

Brake fluid will eat away at plastic and paint!
Wipe any spilled fluid with the rag and lots of water.

Tools needed:

Wrench/Spanner (average 10mm)
Brake bleeding kit (rubber fitting, clear hose, small container)
Brake fluid overflow container (to put the brake bleeding kit small container in)
Brake Fluid

Attach the brake bleeding kit to the brake fluid nipple located on the brake caliper.

Loosen the nipple so the fluid is free to flow down the brake bleeding kit tube and into the small container

Remove the master cylinder cap (top) so you can monitor and refill more brake fluid into the master cylinder as you bleed the brakes.

Pump the brake lever so the old/new brake fluid is forced through the tube into the brake bleeding kit fluid container

Keep the volume of the master cylinder constant (near full) as to not have it empty. Keep pumping on the brake lever until the fluid coming out is clear (rather than the old brown/black colour).

Once all the tiny air bubbles are gone hold pressure on the brake level and re-tighten the brake fluid nipple to close it off.

Replace the master cylinder top cover.

Remove the brake bleeding kit from the caliper and use the rag and water to clean up any spillage.

Alternately, you can pump the pedal once, open the bleeder then shut it, pump the pedal again, open the bleeder and shut it and continue (adding as necessary) until the fluid is clear.

The advantage to doing it this way is much less pumping to get the air out of the lines you created when you first started on the first method.

Sep 10, 2009 | 1996 Suzuki GSF 600 S Bandit

4 Answers

Can not blled front brake

Attach bleeder tube to nipple place open end in bottle Open reservoir fill with proper fluid
With nipple closed squeeze brake handle then open nipple
Close nipple before releasing brake
Repeat until no air comes out and breaks feel good
Without a power bleeder this will take some time

Jan 21, 2009 | 2005 Honda CRF 250 R

2 Answers

Bleeding front brakes

Your $7 bleeder kit typically has a near useless one valve in it. Forget the kits such as these, they usually make things confusing for you.
Firts, make sure all teh brake lines are tightly connected and in good condition. If the flexible lines are over 5 years old, conside getting new ones made/fitted. Stainless/braided lines look good but are NOT necessary for any road bike.

All you need is a long piece of clear hose line (fish tank air line tubing usually works well) that fits the top of the bleed nipples very firmly. The hose should be long enough to hang over your handle bars, or be suspended by a wire or string so that the open end is higher than the master cylinder. You can use two such hoses and do both front calipers at the same time if you wish.

First, manouver the handle bars so that the top of the master cylinder is as level as possible, even to the point of undoing the grip clamp and rotating the whole assembly around the handle bars a bit. Then fit the clear hoses to the caliper bleed nipples.
Remove the top of the master cylinder reseviour and make sure the fluid is topped up. Watch this level the whole time, it is important that the fluid level never get below half full or you risk reintroducing air into the brake lines again. Never reuse old fluid, and always filter any new fluid that has been in the brake system before (run it through a new fuel filter if you are that hard up for money) you reuse it.
Then crack open the bleed nipples on the calipers so that you see fluid start to rise up the hoses ( which is why you want clear hoses). You can pump the lever a few times to get things happening quicker, just watch the master fluid level!
Keep pumping the lever and topping up the fluid level until the level in the tubes is at the same level as the master cylinder. Leave the bleeder nipples open and leave the bike alone for an hour.
After an hour, close the bleeder nipples and top up and refit the master cylinder reserviour cover.
Use a jar under each hose to catch the fluid, remove each hose from its bleeder and let the fluid drain out into the jar. Ditch the used fluid.
Reset the grip to its proper position if it was moved and test the brakes. Pump the lever two times and then release the lever for a few minutes ( at least 1 minute) If the brakes are still soft or wont hold pressure ( if you still have to pump the lever to get pressure, dont ride the bike!) then suspect worn master cylinder or buggered seals.

Nov 10, 2008 | 2006 kawasaki ER-6f

2 Answers

Brake issue yamaha

Pump the lever 5 or 6 times w/ bleeder closed while holding lever, open bleeder close bleeder, pump the lever. Repeat as necessary - works best w/ 2 people. If you really want to get the fluid flowing fast, Loosen the banjo bolt instead of the bleeder the first couple of times. Have lotsa rags on hand..

Nov 10, 2008 | 1994 Yamaha FZ 750 KT (Europe)

1 Answer


no difference. Can't get any bubbles! Damned things are still spongey. Must be air in there somewhere unless I'm missing something besides another brain cell. Anyone got any cunning plans please?ou could try reverse bleeding!! Syringe and a length of clear tube fill syringe and tube with brake fluid crack open the bleed nipple, let a small amount of fluid out, then connect tube to nipple open the nipple a bit more and push the syringe. Should see fluid come up into fluid reservoir, dont let reservoir overflow This sovled a problem on a honda once , after I changed the brake hoses!!,,,

Nov 10, 2008 | 2000 Moto Guzzi V 10 Centauro

1 Answer

Brake line

you're in for a fun night. You need to start pumping new fluid in. Fill up the reservoir then pump the lever a couple of times to get fluid to start to flow into there. Then... you'll have to bleed them. Pump pump pump squeeze open nipple close nipple, release, pump pump pump, squeeze, open nipple, close nipple, release. Do not let the reservoir empty out. Keep doing this until you get clean brake fluid through the lines and no bubbles. It's going to take a lot of worth though.,,,

Nov 10, 2008 | 2008 Benelli TnT Titanium

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