Had very old brake fluid so we decided to change the fluid.
We took all we could through the bleeding nipple but it was coming out too slow so we decided to try draining it through the lines so we took apart the lines and put them back together and then not fluid would come out the nipple at all.
What can we do to finish draining the reserve and create pressure in the lines again?
Thank you in advance
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 500 times.
Re: brake line
You're in for a fun night. You need to start pumping new fluid in. Fill up the reservoir then pump the lever a couple of times to get fluid to start to flow into there. Then... you'll have to bleed them.
Pump pump pump, squeeze, open nipple, close nipple, release, pump pump pump, squeeze, open nipple, close nipple, release.
Do not let the reservoir empty out. Keep doing this until you get clean brake fluid through the lines and no bubbles. It's going to take a lot of worth though.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
I may need a bit more clarification, but I am assuming the lever is 'spongy'?
The simplist thing to do first is to tie the front brake lever back (ie make it stay on) using a zip tie. Leave this overnight/24 hours and it will allow the trapped air to rise.
Failing this, you can bleed the brake in reverse. Get a large syringe (ebay/chemist) and some pipe that fits over the bleed nipple and the syringe. Remove the master cylinder cover and **** out (use the syringe) the brake fluid. Now fill the syringe with fresh brake fluid and connect to the bleed nipple on the caliper. Open the bleed nipple and slowly push the syringe in, to force the fluid up to the reservoir. Be careful that the fluid doesent come out of the reservoir and splash on your paint work. Lock the bleed nipple up whilst still slowly forcing the fluid in. This normally works.
remove brake fluid resovior cap, get jar and lenght of flexable tube that will fit on bleed nipple of brake calipar, put some brake fluid in jar fit tube to bleed nipple, open nipple and put tube in jar below the surface of the fluid, apply the brake on and off while keeping the lfluid full on the bike, continue untill the new fluid has filled the system and entered the jar, hold the brake lever in when tightening the bleed nipple. test brake works, job done
vacuum bleeding is best for these brakes. To do it without a vacuum pump you must pull the handle very slowly and pause about three seconds between handle pulls to allow fluid to refill the piston chamber.
Attach bleeder tube to nipple place open end in bottle Open reservoir fill with proper fluid With nipple closed squeeze brake handle then open nipple Close nipple before releasing brake Repeat until no air comes out and breaks feel good Without a power bleeder this will take some time
Your $7 bleeder kit typically has a near useless one valve in it. Forget the kits such as these, they usually make things confusing for you.
Firts, make sure all teh brake lines are tightly connected and in good condition. If the flexible lines are over 5 years old, conside getting new ones made/fitted. Stainless/braided lines look good but are NOT necessary for any road bike.
All you need is a long piece of clear hose line (fish tank air line tubing usually works well) that fits the top of the bleed nipples very firmly. The hose should be long enough to hang over your handle bars, or be suspended by a wire or string so that the open end is higher than the master cylinder. You can use two such hoses and do both front calipers at the same time if you wish.
First, manouver the handle bars so that the top of the master cylinder is as level as possible, even to the point of undoing the grip clamp and rotating the whole assembly around the handle bars a bit. Then fit the clear hoses to the caliper bleed nipples.
Remove the top of the master cylinder reseviour and make sure the fluid is topped up. Watch this level the whole time, it is important that the fluid level never get below half full or you risk reintroducing air into the brake lines again. Never reuse old fluid, and always filter any new fluid that has been in the brake system before (run it through a new fuel filter if you are that hard up for money) you reuse it.
Then crack open the bleed nipples on the calipers so that you see fluid start to rise up the hoses ( which is why you want clear hoses). You can pump the lever a few times to get things happening quicker, just watch the master fluid level!
Keep pumping the lever and topping up the fluid level until the level in the tubes is at the same level as the master cylinder. Leave the bleeder nipples open and leave the bike alone for an hour.
After an hour, close the bleeder nipples and top up and refit the master cylinder reserviour cover.
Use a jar under each hose to catch the fluid, remove each hose from its bleeder and let the fluid drain out into the jar. Ditch the used fluid.
Reset the grip to its proper position if it was moved and test the brakes. Pump the lever two times and then release the lever for a few minutes ( at least 1 minute) If the brakes are still soft or wont hold pressure ( if you still have to pump the lever to get pressure, dont ride the bike!) then suspect worn master cylinder or buggered seals.
Pump the lever 5 or 6 times w/ bleeder closed
while holding lever, open bleeder
close bleeder, pump the lever.
Repeat as necessary - works best w/ 2 people.
If you really want to get the fluid flowing fast, Loosen the banjo bolt instead of the bleeder the first couple of times. Have lotsa rags on hand..
no difference. Can't get any bubbles! Damned things are still spongey. Must be air in there somewhere unless I'm missing something besides another brain cell. Anyone got any cunning plans please?ou could try reverse bleeding!!
Syringe and a length of clear tube fill syringe and tube with brake fluid
crack open the bleed nipple, let a small amount of fluid out, then connect tube to nipple open the nipple a bit more and push the syringe.
Should see fluid come up into fluid reservoir, dont let reservoir overflow
This sovled a problem on a honda once , after I changed the brake hoses!!,,,
you're in for a fun night. You need to start pumping new fluid in. Fill up the reservoir then pump the lever a couple of times to get fluid to start to flow into there. Then... you'll have to bleed them.
Pump pump pump squeeze open nipple close nipple, release, pump pump pump, squeeze, open nipple, close nipple, release.
Do not let the reservoir empty out. Keep doing this until you get clean brake fluid through the lines and no bubbles. It's going to take a lot of worth though.,,,