Fella's I seam to have my very 1st issue, it appears my oil cooler no longer wishes to be of service to me or my bike So I changed the oil after going for a ride with my new tigs, and I'm cleaning up the bike while it's apart. One of my buddies stops by the shop to check out the new pipes, so I start it up let it warm for a bit and give it a little crack and then another. All the sudden he's floppin his arms at me, shut it off and look under the bike. Hey there's 25% of the $30 bucks I just spent in motul so I figured maybe a loose hose, start it up again to get a better look, this time from the other side of the bike. OH fuck what the hell is that, in the matter of about 10 seconds there's the rest of my motul, well most of it anyway. The enitre length of the oil cooler on the top (right side) is spewing like a fountain at ceasar's palace Anyone know if i should look for anything specific other than a new oil cooler? What would cause this? It's an 04 w/very few miles. The only thing that comes to mind other than a deffective oil cooler would be the cold storage this winter. On the good side at least it happened in the shop up on the lift and not on the road where I might not have noticed until I crashed or the motor popped.
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Re: oil cooler went pop
My oil line blew out the first time I started my bike. I don't know what was the cause other than it might have been blocked. The dealer found no problem or at least didn't tell me about it. It's a good thing that your friend caught it right away, mine was running for over a minute before I walked around to see oil spewing out of the vent.
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i just average joe, but i vote broken ring...sorry pal.. i recently repaired a bike...same thing was happening...in my case, the thing just had too much oil in it , so much so that it was backing into carb...jus a thought
Oil change intervals for motorcycles depend a great deal on your riding conditions and riding style. For lower-revving street bikes, I often change my oil about every 2000 miles (~3200 km). However, someone with a sport bike who regularly revs their engine closer to the redline, I would suggest a more frequent change interval. Off-road / dirt bikes should have their oil changed sooner because of the dusty conditions. The oil is still full of lubricants, but it is contaminated with dust and dirt that clogs the filter and eventually goes right into the engine, increasing wear. I can't offer much guidance for dirt bike oil change intervals.
No, first try and swap out your oil, oil lubricates the gears also in bikes. That is why it is very important to put synthetics in bikes. This should free it up a little if there were no issues before. This should be your first shot, it is the easiest. Then we can go from there, please rate my advice if you feel its helpful.
To get an accurate reading on your oil level , you have to start the motorcycle engine and run it for a at least 5 minutes longer if it is cold outside . A short drive works good. Then unscrew the dipstick on the frame above the tank , wipe it off , make sure the bike is level (upright) and put the dipstick back in till it seats(but do not screw it in). Now take it out and read the level. Top up as necessary but do not over fill. Use only JASO MA certified motorcycle oil. 10w-40 for cooler climates. 20w-50 for warmer conditions. Any oil that says Energy conserving on the label will shorten the life of your wet clutch and transmission gears. Synthetic oil help your bike run cooler and shift easier. 0w40 Amzoil runs great in my 1996 XR 400 Honda.
Here is the most accurate way to check the oil on your R-RT.
Ride bike till it is fully warmed up - 10 minutes
Park bike on side stand for 10 minutes or longer.... overnight.
Put bike on center stand and look at oil level window on lower left side of engine. Oil level should be inside the red circle. Do not overfill!!
The absolute best time to check the oil is when the engine is cold and all oil has drained out of oil cooler and lines into the engine sump. Usually before riding... Once properly broken in, your engine will consume very little oil.
you mean to say that you want to service the bike by yourself 1st of all see when was the bike last service at how much Km. if it was long time then 1st of all better replace Engine Oil & Oil Filter better go through Instruction manual for better understanding of your bike Engine it's working & every dimension for a hazard free trouble free ride just visit your nearest authorized service station.
3.9 US quarts of oil is the capacity. I have not had any trouble just pouring in the full 4 quarts. You should only use a JASO MA motorcycle oil 10w-40 or 20w-50 depending on outside temperature. Any oil that says Energy Conserving on the label should not be used they will shorten wet clutch and gear life. I highly recommend synthetic oil (Amsoil , Mobil 1 [motorcycle}, etc.)they will make the bike run cooler and shift more easily. Synthetic hypoid in the final drive will reduce friction and make it run cooler and last longer too.
Wish I could come up with a line of B.S. as good as their service department does. You have a slightly bent shift fork. Tell the jerks to fix it. It is a problem, it is not right, and it is covered under warranty. Tell them you really don't want to get creamed when the bike pops out of gear and doesn't want to go back into gear as a cement truck is coming at you. If you let them stall you until the warranty runs out it will cost you around $1400.00 to get it fixed. Contact the Regional manager for Yamaha ASAP. Google "Yamaha Motor Corporation" http://www.yamaha-motor.com/
What I am afraid will happen is that the dealer will do the repair and install a new shift fork then tell you they could not find anything wrong so you now owe them the cash because Yamaha will not stand the repair cost for a non-existent problem. Send Yamaha a certified letter as to your concerns and insist someone other than the dealer inspect the bike to confirm the problem. Keep a copy of the letter and the postal receipt. Is there another dealer in the area?
The diagram below shows how a shift fork moves a slider gear left and right to change gears. A slightly bent shift fork would not let the slider gear "dogs" fully engage into 1st gear.