Question about 2000 Yamaha FZX 750 (Not in Europe)

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Stop oil leaking

Anybody had this problem? I heard that is a normal problem of Capos: the clutch oil is leaking beneath the reservoir cover and is eating the nice black paint of the clutch control reservoir. Anybody knows how to stop the slow but constant leaking from it?

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It's either a defective gasket (wrong shape or inconsistent thickness at seal surface) or poor installation (installed with a wrinkle, overtightened, etc.). Clearly it's a problem and not by design. If you're going to design something to leak, it's easier to do without a gasket! :rolleyes: Tell the Scuderia boys to fix it right. Should be warranty work, I'd think.

Posted on Nov 10, 2008


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017


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Idle fluctuates when I stop at a stop sign or light

I had the same problem in my 2006 suzuki forenza, it ended up being that my valve cover gasket was leaking engline oil all over the place, into my spark plug reservoirs and everything. When my husband replaced the gasket and cleaned all of the oil that had leaked into my spark plugs and reservoirs the problem was solved, now it runs beautifully!! Good luck

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Yamaha XV1600. I've got a small oil leak just started. On first sight it looks like beading (like on a wet window) from the bolts that hold the clutch cable on the clutch housing. I've taken the...

Hi, Nollbert_bau external oil deposits fall into 3 categories:
1. WEEPAGE is oil that is sweated pass gaskets, seals, o-rings, and crankcase seams, it's covered by dry dust and is normal for older engines with lots of miles, no repair is necessary.
2. SEEPAGE is the same as weepage except the deposit is wet and confines itself to a specific area, repair is optional depending on the owner's cleanliness criteria, the deposit location and the amount of "DRACHMA" he is willing to part with
3. LEAKAGE is the same as seepage except it is enough to drop to the ground leaving a spot. Repair as necessary.
To find the source of your oil leak, start at the point where you see oil and trace its path going up and forward, blowing baby powder from the palm of your hand will help in those difficult to see areas if there is too much oil present then buy a spray can of engine degreaser apply it to the affected area then rinse off with a pressure wand or garden hose, use compressed air to blow off excess water or just let it drip dry, take your bike for a 15 minute ride and check for the leak.
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I have a pretty bad oil leak on my 1988 toyota pichup 22r. I can not afford to take it to a shop so I am trying to fix it myself. I have to add 2 quartz of oil, every two weeks. Also, I have to add...

We have no idea where the leak is. Do You? Also, if you have to add brake fluid to the clutch reservoir once a week, you've got a huge problem. First find out where the clutch is leaking

Dec 05, 2017 | 1988 Toyota Pickup

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Oil & coolant change, 1998 yamaha 1300 royal star

Before doing either of these jobs, you'll have to run the engine for 8 to 10 minutes to warm up the engine, oil and water.

To change the oil - prop the motorcycle so that it's as close to level as possible, but will not tip over in either direction. Remove the oil fill cover on the back crankcase cover on the right (brake pedal) side. Look directly beneath the cylinders, you'll see a large hex-head bolt (drain plug) in the center of the crankcase. Make sure that you have a container with a capacity of in excess of one gallon under the bolt. Loosen and remove the drain plug (very quickly, the temperature of the oil will be sufficient to cause blisters if permitted to remain on the skin), but do not, if possible, allow it to fall into the pan. Permit the oil to drain fully; while it's draining, clean the plug carefully - you'll find a magnet protruding from the center of the plug, with metal filings collected on the surface - remove as many as possible before reinstalling.

Turn the plug back into the crankcase until oil ceases dripping, move the pan to the front of the engine. Behind the radiator, low on the front of the crankcase, you'll find the filter - it looks very much like the filters you're used to seeing in your car. If you're at the front of the bike, turn the filter counterclockwise to loosen and remove; remember that the filter holds about a half-pint of oil as hot as that you drained out of the crankcase, so keep your hands out of the way as much as possible. When the oil stops dripping, and the filter has been removed and disposed of, put a thin film of oil on the rubber ring on the bottom of the new filter, turn it clockwise to mount it on the crankcase, and tighten as firmly as you can with your hands.

Go back to the drain plug, remove and let whatever oil has collected drain out, then reinstall, tightening to 32 ft.-lbs (43nm).

Pour about 3 1/2 quarts of oil into the crankcase, replace the oil fill cover, start the engine and check for leaks at both the drain plug and the filter, tighten as necessary. To check the oil level, look for a glass window on the right side of the crankcase marked for high (max) and low (min) levels. Get on hands and knees and look under the front crankcase cover directly beside the right operator's footrest; you'll probably need a flashlight to read it. Once the oil level is between the minimum and maximum markings, tighten the oil fill cover, and return the bike to its' normal parking position on the kickstand.

To change the coolant - remove the driver's seat, fuel tank, all four cylinder side covers, and the right side cover (color-matched cover under driver's seat). Prop the motorcycle so that it's as close to level as possible, but will not tip over in either direction. Place a 24"-30" drain pan slightly forward of the center of the engine - if you do not have a large drain pan, a small one placed under the drains individually, IN THE ORDER LISTED, will work. Siphon all coolant from overflow reservoir under the side cover OR remove the center cover, remove bolts holding the reservoir to frame, invert the reservoir to empty, and reattach the reservoir to the frame.

Now, remove the radiator cap and the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator, allow the radiator to empty. Remove the plugs at the lower portion of each cylinder in no particular order, drain fully, then remove the drain plug from the bottom of the water pump (the large protrusion beside the front right driver's footrest). Once all drains have ceased dripping, reinstall the radiator plug (torque to 18 ft.-lb., 25nm), all four cylinder plugs (seat firmly in the drain holes), and the water pump plug (torque to 32 ft.-lb., 43nm). Fill the reservoir in the rear, then fill the radiator as much as possible, cap, and run the engine for 3-5 minutes to warm. Remove the radiator cap, check the radiator and refill, repeating until there is no air beneath the radiator cap when it is removed.

Reinstall the body panels, tank and seat, and return the bike to its' normal parking position on the kickstand. If additional coolant is needed it will be added to the reservoir - check frequently for about the next 100-150 miles.

Note on oil - I've always warned people away from oils that were labeled "energy conserving", but lately I've noticed that those same oils no longer carry that label. I've been seeing a new seal on them; on the outside of the seal are the words "American Petroleum Institute" on the top, "Certified" on the bottom, and in the center of the seal are the words "For Gasoline Engines", and - surprise, surprise! - they ALL contain molybdenum disulfide, the stuff that makes clutches slip. Check the bottles of the oil that you're considering for use in your motorcycle. If you see the API seal, keep going. Unfortunately, a member named "rasolheim" is learning the hard way how expensive an error like that can be; I hope that I can warn others before they make the same mistake.

Note on coolant - using an "extended-life" coolant makes good sense; it'll extend the interval between coolant changes and do a better job of protecting the aluminum cylinder block and heads. It does NOT, however, free you from the responsibility of checking the coolant level and color frequently. Periodic checks (I do it every day, before and after a ride) are your best protection against leaks and corrosion.

Jul 25, 2010 | 1998 Yamaha Royal Star XVZ 1300 A

3 Answers

Clutch reservoir is dry on my daughters 96 Eagle Talon the car will not go into any gear.How do I flush the reservoir?If I add oil could this solve the problem

Do not put oil in this system.It uses brake fluid in the reservoir.If the system doesn't have any fluid in it, there is a leak, and both the clutch master cyl and the clutch slave should be replaced. They both were used the same amount of times, and wear evenly. When you add fluid, the clutch master cyl compresses the fluid down the line/hose into the clutch slave cyl. This depresses the clutch fork/arm and disengages the clutch disc so the input shaft into the transmission stops moving, allowing the trans to be put into gear. LOOK FOR THE FLUID LEAKING TO ISOLATE THE PROBLEM. This is a closed system, and the fluid never gets used, unless there is a leak.

Jan 07, 2010 | 1992 Eagle Talon

1 Answer

2004 holdern rodeo v6 clutch went to the floor was working all good before

The problem could come from the clutch master cylinder or the slave cylinder. The cause could be external or internal.

First check the fluid level in the reservoir. The reservoir could be independent of the brake system or using the same.

If the level is too low, air may have entered in the line and the hydraulic compression is affected. So first, adjust the level in the reservoir using recommended oil. (normally brake oil is ok).

Check for any oil leak starting from the clutch pedal following hydraulic circuit up to the transmission.
Your vehicule should have two clutch cylinders: the master and the slave.
The master cylinder is operated by your clutch pedal, it's located under the dash, fixed to the firewall and connected to the hydraulic line on the other side of the firewall. Check for any leak on the carpet, under the carpet and near the hydraulic connection. Pumping the pedal making that verification could help to detect leak. Then follow the hydraulic line going to the slave cylinder attached to the transmission making a visual inspection for leaks.
If for any reason some air entered the circuit, the line could be purged from air bleeding the slave cyclinder as you do bleeding brake component.
If there is no air, no leak detected then it's probably an internal problem that you can't see. Remove the cap from the reservoir, depress the pedal. If the oil is moving in the reservoir then the master slave is probably bad otherwise I would suspect the slave.
I'm not an Isuzu technician.
Some other Gurus could complement or correct my saying.
Hope it will help

Dec 20, 2009 | 2004 Isuzu Rodeo

1 Answer

Clutch stopped working

The clutch reservoir is on the bulkhead / firewall by the brake fluid reservoir under the bonnet / hood. Its likely to be low or out of fluid. If this is the case its more than likely that you have a leak from the master cylinder or slave cylinder. First have a look from the clutch pedal side for any signs of fluid around the firewall area. Then follow the pipe from the master cylinder down to the gearbox bellhousing. The slave cylinder is what it attaches to. Chances are there will be a leak from under the rubber boot where the rod exits. In some cases you will have to remove it from the bell housing to check for leak. You can usually leave the pipework on at this stage. Carefully prize of the dust cover and check for leaks. Be careful not to let it drip in your eyes. If its leaking remove completely and replace it or the seals. Refit and bleed the clutch after topping up reservoir.
Cheers John

Dec 14, 2008 | 1991 Nissan Pathfinder

1 Answer

How to stop clutch oil leaking

It's either a defective gasket (wrong shape or inconsistent thickness at seal surface) or poor installation (installed with a wrinkle overtightened etc.). Clearly it's a problem and not by design. If you're going to design something to leak it's easier to do without a gasket! Tell the Scuderia boys to fix it right. Should be warranty work, I'd think. ,,,

Nov 10, 2008 | 2005 Hartford VR 150Z

1 Answer

How to stop clutch oil leaking

It's either a defective gasket (wrong shape or inconsistent thickness at seal surface) or poor installation (installed with a wrinkle overtightened etc.). Clearly it's a problem and not by design. If you're going to design something to leak it's easier to do without a gasket! Tell the Scuderia boys to fix it right. Should be warranty work, I'd think. ,,,

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have the exact same problem - I cannot figure out how to stop the cover from weeping fluid. Mine started when I had the clutch replaced about six months ago. Im dropping my bik in for its two year service in a few weeks and Ill see if I can get it fixed under warranty.

Nov 10, 2008 | 2004 Aprilia Caponord Rally Raid

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