Question about 2000 Yamaha FZX 750 (Not in Europe)
Anybody had this problem? I heard that is a normal problem of Capos: the clutch oil is leaking beneath the reservoir cover and is eating the nice black paint of the clutch control reservoir. Anybody knows how to stop the slow but constant leaking from it?
It's either a defective gasket (wrong shape or inconsistent thickness at seal surface) or poor installation (installed with a wrinkle, overtightened, etc.). Clearly it's a problem and not by design. If you're going to design something to leak, it's easier to do without a gasket! :rolleyes: Tell the Scuderia boys to fix it right. Should be warranty work, I'd think.
Posted on Nov 10, 2008
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As the clutch wears the fluid level in the reservoir will rise so the initial fluid level should not exceed the FILL LEVEL. And the motorcycle must be upright and the handlebars set to level the fluid in the clutch reservoir.
When filling an empty clutch fluid line, a VACUUM BRAKE BLEEDER with a fitting that mates to the secondary clutch actuator bleeder screw threads can be used to draw the fluid down the clutch line and the air out of the system.
Take off the clutch fluid reservoir cover and then initially loosen the banjo bolt just enough to allow air bubbles to escape. Be careful because clutch fluid under pressure can squirt a steady stream a long way.
Hold the reservoir cover in place and pump the clutch hand lever 5 times or so and then hold the clutch hand lever against the handlebar and with a shop towel under the fitting loosen the banjo bolt and watch fro air bubbles to be released and then retighten the banjo fitting and only after it is tight release the hand lever. Check and refill the reservoir with fluid to the FILL LEVEL line and repeat the previous step three or more times and until only a steady flow of clutch fluid without air bubbles escapes from the banjo fitting at all times keeping the clutch fluid level in the reservoir at the FILL LEVEL with motorcycle in an upright position.
THEN remove the secondary clutch actuator cover, cover the exhaust pipe(s) with towels and place a suitable pan under the right side case to catch excess clutch fluid THEN while holding the reservoir cover in place pump the clutch hand lever 5 or more times, then hold the clutch hand lever against the handlebar and loosen the secondary clutch actuator bleed screw and watch the bleed screw for air bubbles. When the hand lever touches the hand grip hold it there without releasing it until the bleed screw has been tightened again and then release the hand lever., refill the fluid reservoir to the FILL LINE and repeat the previous steps, always keeping the fluid reservoir full of fluid, until a steady stream of fluid with no air bubbles coming from the bleed screw. When there is no more air coming out leave the bleeder screw tight and fill the reservoir with fluid to the FILL LINE.AUTION
THEN test pressure by squeezing clutch hand lever repeatedly does not build pressure in the hand lever and the fluid level does not remain at the FILL LINE then there is a leak somewhere and it will have to be located and fixed. If there is no visible leak check the secondary clutch actuator boot for leakage.
When there is no evidence of leakage and the clutch lever works properly and the fluid in the reservoir is at the FILL LINE install the reservoir cap and insert and tighten the fasteners to 0.7-0.9 Nm (6-8 in-lbs); the reservoir banjo bolt to 23-31 Nm (17-23 ft-lbs); the bleed screw to 9-11 Nm (80-100 in-lbs); the secondary clutch actuator cover fasteners to 6-10 Nm (53-88 in-lbs) and then test ride the motorcycle.
If the clutch does not have correct pressure you may have a dragging clutch and/or hard shifting.
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