Question about 2000 Yamaha FZX 750 (Not in Europe)

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Stop oil leaking

Anybody had this problem? I heard that is a normal problem of Capos: the clutch oil is leaking beneath the reservoir cover and is eating the nice black paint of the clutch control reservoir. Anybody knows how to stop the slow but constant leaking from it?

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It's either a defective gasket (wrong shape or inconsistent thickness at seal surface) or poor installation (installed with a wrinkle, overtightened, etc.). Clearly it's a problem and not by design. If you're going to design something to leak, it's easier to do without a gasket! :rolleyes: Tell the Scuderia boys to fix it right. Should be warranty work, I'd think.

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

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Need help bleeding clutch on my 05 v-rod

As the clutch wears the fluid level in the reservoir will rise so the initial fluid level should not exceed the FILL LEVEL. And the motorcycle must be upright and the handlebars set to level the fluid in the clutch reservoir.

When filling an empty clutch fluid line, a VACUUM BRAKE BLEEDER with a fitting that mates to the secondary clutch actuator bleeder screw threads can be used to draw the fluid down the clutch line and the air out of the system.

Take off the clutch fluid reservoir cover and then initially loosen the banjo bolt just enough to allow air bubbles to escape. Be careful because clutch fluid under pressure can squirt a steady stream a long way.

Hold the reservoir cover in place and pump the clutch hand lever 5 times or so and then hold the clutch hand lever against the handlebar and with a shop towel under the fitting loosen the banjo bolt and watch fro air bubbles to be released and then retighten the banjo fitting and only after it is tight release the hand lever. Check and refill the reservoir with fluid to the FILL LEVEL line and repeat the previous step three or more times and until only a steady flow of clutch fluid without air bubbles escapes from the banjo fitting at all times keeping the clutch fluid level in the reservoir at the FILL LEVEL with motorcycle in an upright position.

THEN remove the secondary clutch actuator cover, cover the exhaust pipe(s) with towels and place a suitable pan under the right side case to catch excess clutch fluid THEN while holding the reservoir cover in place pump the clutch hand lever 5 or more times, then hold the clutch hand lever against the handlebar and loosen the secondary clutch actuator bleed screw and watch the bleed screw for air bubbles. When the hand lever touches the hand grip hold it there without releasing it until the bleed screw has been tightened again and then release the hand lever., refill the fluid reservoir to the FILL LINE and repeat the previous steps, always keeping the fluid reservoir full of fluid, until a steady stream of fluid with no air bubbles coming from the bleed screw. When there is no more air coming out leave the bleeder screw tight and fill the reservoir with fluid to the FILL LINE.AUTION

THEN test pressure by squeezing clutch hand lever repeatedly does not build pressure in the hand lever and the fluid level does not remain at the FILL LINE then there is a leak somewhere and it will have to be located and fixed. If there is no visible leak check the secondary clutch actuator boot for leakage.

When there is no evidence of leakage and the clutch lever works properly and the fluid in the reservoir is at the FILL LINE install the reservoir cap and insert and tighten the fasteners to 0.7-0.9 Nm (6-8 in-lbs); the reservoir banjo bolt to 23-31 Nm (17-23 ft-lbs); the bleed screw to 9-11 Nm (80-100 in-lbs); the secondary clutch actuator cover fasteners to 6-10 Nm (53-88 in-lbs) and then test ride the motorcycle.

If the clutch does not have correct pressure you may have a dragging clutch and/or hard shifting.

Jun 12, 2014 | 2004 Harley Davidson VRSCA V-Rod

1 Answer

Clutch on my 1400 intruder empty but cant find any leaks, is it going in my motor?

No it won't leak into the motor, nowhere does the clutch fluid get close to the insides of the engine.

Refill the clutch reservoir to look for leaks,

Mar 18, 2012 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

If you pump the clutch lever it will engage the clutch. when you pull in the lever without doing this it will not engage. How do i fix this problem?

Take cover off the clutch reservoir and check the fluid level. Fill it if necessary. Look for leaks between the clutch lever/reservoir, down the hose to the clutch slave cylinder. If no leaks visible, slowly squeeze clutch lever and release, watching for air or fluid pumping in the reservoir. Repeat until clutch has a solid pull. If the pull doesn't improve and stay good, you'll need to bleed the hose and slave cylinder. Locate the bleed valve at the clutch, squeeze the lever till it's a good solid pull, hold it in, and open the bleed valve. Watch for air bubbles. After doing this several times, you should get nothing but fluid. Refill the reservoir and close it. Good riding

Apr 18, 2011 | Suzuki VS 800 Intruder Motorcycles

1 Answer

When I shift gears, even from nuteral to first the gears make a hard clunk when they come together. Is this a clutch disk problem??

It could be a clutch problem, if you're disengaging the clutch and holding it for several seconds prior to attempting to shift gears. The gear clusters are heavy enough that, even in an engine oil bath, they'll spin for several seconds after the clutch has been disengaged. Within 10-15 seconds, however, they should be nearly stationary, if the clutch is functioning properly. It can also be aggravated by low viscosity oil in the crankcase; check to make sure that the viscosity of the oil is at least 40W (10W-40, 20W40); sometimes, toward the end of the oil's service life, it can suffer a significant loss in viscosity. If keeping the clutch disengaged longer doesn't minimize the grinding, flush the clutch hydraulic line; if that doesn't work, the clutch assembly will have to be removed and examined for bent or buckled diaphragm spring, pressure plate or clutch disks.

To flush the clutch hydraulic line, remove the left (shift lever side) rear cylinder cover (3 cap screws, 8mm Allen). Beneath the cover at the bottom, you'll see a neoprene "trapdoor"; that covers the drain fitting for the hydraulic clutch assembly. Loosen the fitting, slide a flexible tube over the fitting to route the old fluid to a pan or jar (you really DON'T want the old hydraulic fluid floating around under the cover), and pump the clutch lever, periodically refilling the reservoir on the handlebars, until the fluid coming out the drain is clear and free of bubbles. Remove the flexible tubing, tighten the drain fitting, and recheck clutch operation and gear noise when shifting.

If flushing the clutch hydraulic line does not quiet shifts, I would have to recommend purchase of any one of a number of good maintenance manuals to facilitate removing and inspecting the clutch "pack", the illustrations make a very difficult-to-read procedure quite straightforward.

Aug 17, 2010 | 2004 Yamaha Royal Star Venture

2 Answers

Oil & coolant change, 1998 yamaha 1300 royal star

Before doing either of these jobs, you'll have to run the engine for 8 to 10 minutes to warm up the engine, oil and water.

To change the oil - prop the motorcycle so that it's as close to level as possible, but will not tip over in either direction. Remove the oil fill cover on the back crankcase cover on the right (brake pedal) side. Look directly beneath the cylinders, you'll see a large hex-head bolt (drain plug) in the center of the crankcase. Make sure that you have a container with a capacity of in excess of one gallon under the bolt. Loosen and remove the drain plug (very quickly, the temperature of the oil will be sufficient to cause blisters if permitted to remain on the skin), but do not, if possible, allow it to fall into the pan. Permit the oil to drain fully; while it's draining, clean the plug carefully - you'll find a magnet protruding from the center of the plug, with metal filings collected on the surface - remove as many as possible before reinstalling.

Turn the plug back into the crankcase until oil ceases dripping, move the pan to the front of the engine. Behind the radiator, low on the front of the crankcase, you'll find the filter - it looks very much like the filters you're used to seeing in your car. If you're at the front of the bike, turn the filter counterclockwise to loosen and remove; remember that the filter holds about a half-pint of oil as hot as that you drained out of the crankcase, so keep your hands out of the way as much as possible. When the oil stops dripping, and the filter has been removed and disposed of, put a thin film of oil on the rubber ring on the bottom of the new filter, turn it clockwise to mount it on the crankcase, and tighten as firmly as you can with your hands.

Go back to the drain plug, remove and let whatever oil has collected drain out, then reinstall, tightening to 32 ft.-lbs (43nm).

Pour about 3 1/2 quarts of oil into the crankcase, replace the oil fill cover, start the engine and check for leaks at both the drain plug and the filter, tighten as necessary. To check the oil level, look for a glass window on the right side of the crankcase marked for high (max) and low (min) levels. Get on hands and knees and look under the front crankcase cover directly beside the right operator's footrest; you'll probably need a flashlight to read it. Once the oil level is between the minimum and maximum markings, tighten the oil fill cover, and return the bike to its' normal parking position on the kickstand.

To change the coolant - remove the driver's seat, fuel tank, all four cylinder side covers, and the right side cover (color-matched cover under driver's seat). Prop the motorcycle so that it's as close to level as possible, but will not tip over in either direction. Place a 24"-30" drain pan slightly forward of the center of the engine - if you do not have a large drain pan, a small one placed under the drains individually, IN THE ORDER LISTED, will work. Siphon all coolant from overflow reservoir under the side cover OR remove the center cover, remove bolts holding the reservoir to frame, invert the reservoir to empty, and reattach the reservoir to the frame.

Now, remove the radiator cap and the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator, allow the radiator to empty. Remove the plugs at the lower portion of each cylinder in no particular order, drain fully, then remove the drain plug from the bottom of the water pump (the large protrusion beside the front right driver's footrest). Once all drains have ceased dripping, reinstall the radiator plug (torque to 18 ft.-lb., 25nm), all four cylinder plugs (seat firmly in the drain holes), and the water pump plug (torque to 32 ft.-lb., 43nm). Fill the reservoir in the rear, then fill the radiator as much as possible, cap, and run the engine for 3-5 minutes to warm. Remove the radiator cap, check the radiator and refill, repeating until there is no air beneath the radiator cap when it is removed.

Reinstall the body panels, tank and seat, and return the bike to its' normal parking position on the kickstand. If additional coolant is needed it will be added to the reservoir - check frequently for about the next 100-150 miles.

Note on oil - I've always warned people away from oils that were labeled "energy conserving", but lately I've noticed that those same oils no longer carry that label. I've been seeing a new seal on them; on the outside of the seal are the words "American Petroleum Institute" on the top, "Certified" on the bottom, and in the center of the seal are the words "For Gasoline Engines", and - surprise, surprise! - they ALL contain molybdenum disulfide, the stuff that makes clutches slip. Check the bottles of the oil that you're considering for use in your motorcycle. If you see the API seal, keep going. Unfortunately, a member named "rasolheim" is learning the hard way how expensive an error like that can be; I hope that I can warn others before they make the same mistake.

Note on coolant - using an "extended-life" coolant makes good sense; it'll extend the interval between coolant changes and do a better job of protecting the aluminum cylinder block and heads. It does NOT, however, free you from the responsibility of checking the coolant level and color frequently. Periodic checks (I do it every day, before and after a ride) are your best protection against leaks and corrosion.

Jul 25, 2010 | 1998 Yamaha Royal Star XVZ 1300 A

2 Answers

Clutch leaking oil?

ON OIL LEAKS IVE BEEN A CERTIFIED MECHANIC 40 years plus i have 2 issues to add yo fix ya they would be oil and gas leak issues gas leak can ruin motor my fix dissasemble fuel petcock remoce tiny o ring and spring carefully dril 2 more holes opposite 2 hole allready there dissconect vacum now add xtra t valve with manual cut off gasleak prblem fixed oil leaks if oil leak is persistant by that i mean you just see oil after sitting over nite minimum amount go to a hier i use 20/50 non syn thetic oil but live in so florida so it depends on owners location good luck signed suzuki750 owner

May 19, 2010 | 1999 Suzuki GSX 750 F (Katana)

1 Answer

Hi I went to buy a 1982 750 magna today. it started right up and was a little noisy but I think the engine is ok. The problem is that there was no fluid in the clutch reservoir and the bike won't shift...

You'll see a bleed valve at the left side of the engine under the side engine cover.
Top up the oil reservoir.
Loose the bleeder and clean it out.
Replace the bleeder, and put a transparent hose on it, to a bowl.
After a few minutes, the brakefluid should show up in the hose. Look permanently that there is enough fluid in the reservoir!

When fluid flows airbubble free, tighten the bleeder. Feel the cluthhandle, should feel 'nice' now.

Most times, the leak at the clutch piston is internal. You won't see traces at the outside of the engine.
You'll have to dismount the clutch piston to check him.

Oct 31, 2009 | 1982 Honda VF 750 S

1 Answer

How to stop clutch oil leaking

It's either a defective gasket (wrong shape or inconsistent thickness at seal surface) or poor installation (installed with a wrinkle overtightened etc.). Clearly it's a problem and not by design. If you're going to design something to leak it's easier to do without a gasket! Tell the Scuderia boys to fix it right. Should be warranty work, I'd think. ,,,

Nov 10, 2008 | 2005 Hartford VR 150Z

1 Answer

How to stop clutch oil leaking

It's either a defective gasket (wrong shape or inconsistent thickness at seal surface) or poor installation (installed with a wrinkle overtightened etc.). Clearly it's a problem and not by design. If you're going to design something to leak it's easier to do without a gasket! Tell the Scuderia boys to fix it right. Should be warranty work, I'd think. ,,,

Nov 10, 2008 | 2003 ATK 125 2-stroke

1 Answer

Caponored clutch oil leaking

have the exact same problem - I cannot figure out how to stop the cover from weeping fluid. Mine started when I had the clutch replaced about six months ago. Im dropping my bik in for its two year service in a few weeks and Ill see if I can get it fixed under warranty.

Nov 10, 2008 | 2004 Aprilia Caponord Rally Raid

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