Got a new starter put on, and a whole new shifter column deal...The guy at the shop said the electric start works fine, but that my battery didn't have enough of a charge to start it. I manage to kickstart it, and drive it around for a bit, before it dies, and cannot be restarted. I don't know much, but it sounds like a stater issue to me...Just a few hours ago though, I fully charged the same, new battery, but it still struggles and will not start...What do I do now? I'm sick of taking this thing into the shop
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Re: what to do
If the battery no longer holds a charge, then it sounds like you need to get a new battery, or at least have your current battery checked by a Battery Shop.
Stator could be a problem, in which case you should be able to get a new aftermarket one for your bike.
Just as a thought though, did you check your fuel level when it died on you?
it's happened to me before, where I'm looking all over for what's wrong, thinking the bike has a terminal problem, when it just turns out that it was out of gas.
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
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A common problem that's surfaced a great deal lately is a car/truck that
starts fine when the engine is cold but won't when the engine is warm.
Most of the time, the car will require a jump start with a warm engine
to get it to start. Most mistakenly assume a bad battery and change it
out, only to have the same problem. What happens is most starters don't
just "quit" when they are defective. A bad starter will usually start
your vehicle when it's absolutely cold. Once warm, the starter will
behave as follows:<br />
<li>Click then nothing</li>
<li>All other electrical is fine (headlights, stereo, alarm etc)</li></ul>
If your car or truck won't start when the engine is warm, but starts
fine when it's cold, you most likely have a bad starter. Although
replacing the battery is less expensive, it rarely (if ever) will
resolve this issue. Consider the age of the car / starter when these
symptoms occur. If you have an older vehicle (older than 5 years) then
replacing the starter is a good place to start prior to buying other
electrical components (battery, alternator). <br />
Always bring the vehicle to a shop that offers a free electrical
diagnostic test to confirm the electrical system is sound to rule out an
electrical problem first. If the electrical system is sound, I'd go
ahead and replace the starter. <br />Although this tip will show under the Lincoln category, it applies to all makes and models.<br />
I had this problem.. on my carthe nutural safety switch its called a "combination switch" $175 So i put a push button on the dash which is wired from the battery to the starter.. now if it does not turn over i just turn on the key and push the button.. switch was $3. and about $3 worth of wire.. Works Great..
There are 3 components which must align to make the starter work. Check your Brake lights and see if they work, because the brake pedal must be pressed to send a signal to the starter solenoid. At the top of the brake pedal lever, this switch is often bumped by Drivers' feet. The other 2 alignments are the gearshift and the Ignition keyswitch. Some of the Ignition keyswitches are made with a slotted mount and you adjust the rod length by sliding the mount to where it works and tightening it down. The transmission cable/rod must position the assembly in Park. The idea overall is that they want to stop runaways. The system verifies the Brake pedal is pressed, the vehicle is in Park, before allowing the Ignition key to turn or send a start signal.
How do you know that ? safety nuetral switch and relays are all good . Did you check then with electrical testing ? Battery , battery cables , connections ! Voltage drop testing the starter electrical circuit ! The engine starter motor relay in the under hood power distribution center is good ? Is fuse # 11 good 30amp , Starter Voltage Drop
Do you know what a wiring diagram is an how to read one ? How to test automotive electrical circuits ?
Well it sounds as if you have power to everything basically but when you turn the key nothing at all happens. If this is the case there are MANY things that can cause this. Have you tried taking the gear shifter out of park and then putting it back into park. You could be dealing with a faulty nuetral safety switch or park neutral position switch which is located on the transmission. If this is faulty and thinks that it is still in gear then you will get the same symptoms are you are describing. The first picture below is where it is located on the transmission. There are some testing procedures for this switch. You may also be dealing with the starter relay itself. The 2nd picture is where it is located under the hood of the vehicle and the last picture is a closer look at lts location. Again there are some testing procedures for it as well. You could be looking at a bad connection or even the ignition switch could be bad. If you need those testing procedures, you can reply here or email me directly at email@example.com and I will be happy to give them to you. Hope this helps....
I have this problem right now also. Here is the deal as I see it. I have a 97 Saturn SC2 automatic (nuuf said!). Against my intuition I let the guy at Autozone talk me into a battery, though I suspected the solinoid or the starter motor itself. Put in the new batt and nothing but a single loud click. I took the new battery back and used the refund money to get a new starter. I put it in and still just a loud click. I have cleaned the terminals and torqued the cable at the batt and starter.Because the solinoid clicks when I turn the key I am asuming (for now) that the ignition switch, neutral saftey switch and the "Startguard" (the little electric key you have to put in for your car to start) is good. In my knowlege, it has to be the main battery cable that runs from the battery to the starter. Next I'm gonna go out there and turn my key to the on position and connect a jumper cable from the battery directly to the starter solinoids high current side to confirm or bust my suspicion of the bad positive (red) battery cable. I will let you know how it goes.
im having the same problem. I went to one place and they said I needed a new starter. So I took it to another and they said the wires to the starter were not good and needed to be replaced, they put in a new battery also. Then 2 days later it wouldnt start again. So I took it back they diagnosed it and could not find a issue with it. So the guy told me it is something electrical most probably a relay of a sort. A coworker told me to go to a electrical specialist.
I cant get the key out or lock steering column and the automatic transmission shift lever locks up in park. Now if I take the battery off every thing works fine. This sure seems like a reset problem.I run the car by not having it in the locked column position and get the shifter to work by putting a key in the hole furnished by chevy to bypass shift lock. thank you