Question about 1986 Yamaha FZ 750 AE (U.S.)

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Front fork oil

Noticed oil on engine guard an engine yesterday and tracked it to the left side front fork oil seal. Read Clymer repair manual and seems to be fairly easy repair. Just wondering if anyone has done the seal replacement wo removing the tube from the bike. Is it possible to just remove the wheel, fender, brake caliper and then unfasten and remove the slider tube alone? Am I missing anything or is this job more than I should be attempting at home?

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Take em off and do it right ... chances are high that your other tube seal is about to go as well, so do both of them at the same time. Even if you can't do it on your own (There may be a special tool involved that you don't have) you can still take the separated tubes to the shop, and you'll be charged alot less since you did the removal work yourself!

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

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1 Answer

How do I refill my fork tubes with fork oil


Begin by loosening the upper triple-clamp pinch bolts and breaking the fork caps loose while the fork is still held by the lower triple clamp. You will need to remove the caps to refill the fork tubes with oil.
Determine if the fork legs have oil drain plugs near the bottom of the legs. If they do, you are in luck and will be able to change the oil without removing the fork legs. Put old newspapers on the floor under the front end. Place a drain pan under the fork legs and remove the drain plugs, one side at a time. Hold the front brake and push down on the fork several times to pump the oil out. When oil stops coming out, reinstall the plugs using new sealing washers.
Without Drain Plugs
If there are no drain plugs (look carefully), you'll need to remove the fork legs to drain the oil. At this point you can decide to have it done professionally or do the work yourself. We'll cover the main, basic steps. Refer to a shop manual to learn all the exact procedures involved. Some motorcycles may require fairings, handlebars, etc. to be removed.
Support the motorcycle either on the centerstand (if equipped) or by using a motorcycle jack under the engine. If you use the centerstand, you may need to place a sandbag on the rear of the seat, hold the front end up using straps from the rafters, or support the bike underneath the engine. Use tie-downs to steady the bike on the jack. Grasp the lower fork legs and try to push and pull the fork toward the back of the bike and forward to check for loose steering head bearings. Inspect the pleated rubber fork boots, if equipped. Check for signs of fork oil leakage and any grooves in the fork tube wear surfaces where the seals make contact. Also check for looseness between the fork legs and tubes that would indicate bushing wear.
Remove the front wheel and axle assembly. Support and tie the brake caliper(s) out of the way. Remove the front fender and speedometer cable, if equipped. With the fork leg fully extended, remove the top cap from a leg. Be prepared as there may be some spring pressure pushing against the cap.
Loosen and remove the pinch bolt from the lower triple clamp and lower the fork leg. Note any shims or washers and spring. Turn the leg upside down in a drain pan until oil stops flowing out. You may have to move the damping rod in and out to get the oil out. Repeat the procedure for the other side.
Reinstall the fork legs and other removed components in the reverse order of removal.
All Models
Add the exact amount and type of oil recommended by the manufacturer. Some motorcycles call for the use of a dipstick to determine how much oil to use instead of just pouring a certain amount of oil back in. Follow the manufacturer's shop manual recommendations.
Carefully install the threaded top caps by hand to avoid cross-threading. Tighten the pinch bolts and top caps to the factory-specified torques. After the brakes are installed, pump up the lever until the brakes feel normal again. Once the bike is assembled and on the floor, push down on the front end to verify the suspension's response. Turn the steering from its left to right limits to ensure nothing is binding, and check all controls including the throttle for proper operation.

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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If you're mechanically inclined you could do it yourself. I suggest you get a service manual for the bike, even a Haynes or Clymer manual is very helpful.

The process requires separating the fork tubes from the sliders, disconnecting the front brake and any other cables to the front wheel, then dropping the fork assembly so the inner tubes slide up and out. Then you can pull the seals and put new ones in.

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1 Answer

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Angela, do you have a Clymer, Hayne, or service manual for the bike? If not you should get one, there is a lot of valuable information in there even if you don't do all the work yourself.

Replacing the fork seal requires putting the front end in the air, disconnecting everything from the front wheel (brake lines, speedometer cable if there is one), and dropping the wheel and fork tubes CAREFULLY to separate the two pieces of the fork tubes. Then grab the old seal and replace it with the new seal.

This short description is a VERY abbreviated and simplified version. It's not hard once you have done it a couple times but be very careful not to bend anything in your forks. They have springs inside them too. Change the oil while you are in there. Usually 10 or 15 weight fork oil but look in your manual. If you can't find a manual post again with your bike's year and we will see what we can come up with.

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2 Answers

Steering shakes very bad,from 55mph down to 20mph. slowing down


Yes the leak is causing uneven pressure on the front of the bike! The pressure in the left fork is greater then the right fork and will cause shaking of the front end!
Replacing seals and oil to the right fork will fix the shaking!
Hope this helps!

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1 Answer

Right front fork seal bad? Oil mess


got away from rear break usage due to weird squealing which I've read about. The book says to use front brake as much as possible but puts downward load on front shocks alot. Damn Injuns. Sorry for the vent its a putter but the wife is asking why is it apart more than on the road. The wife I can fix the bike I need help.I'd replace the O-ring on the cap on top of the fork tube first. The turn signal is kinda high to be getting oil on it from a fork seal leaking.,,

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1 Answer

Right front fork seal bad? Oil mess


got away from rear break usage due to weird squealing which I've read about. The book says to use front brake as much as possible but puts downward load on front shocks alot. Damn Injuns. Sorry for the vent its a putter but the wife is asking why is it apart more than on the road. The wife I can fix the bike I need help.I'd replace the O-ring on the cap on top of the fork tube first. The turn signal is kinda high to be getting oil on it from a fork seal leaking.,,

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