I'm new posting here so ...sorry...but I'm at my wits end!!! 1995 trophy 900- starts easily (full choke), backfires through pipes (coughing), revs alright but only when the choke is full on and its still coughing...no matter the RPM its coughing! The bike first started stalling at dead stops, then low rpm, than cough, cough, HACK!! Here is what I have done... carbs cleaned, new plugs, new gas (my 1st thought...bike had sat a while!?!? Yes I checked the vacuum line not once but 3 times (I am tired of taking the tank off) YES I checked to see if the petcock worked... gas runs out on PRI not on run or res. I tried running a ferris wheel over a dung heap...nothing seems to be working!!?!?!?!? Any thoughts are welcome, Thanks!!!
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Re: coughing '95 trophy 900
I think you would be better of checking the ignition pick-up located on the right side engine cover. you may want consider searching for info on the ignition pickup, as apparently it is a weak link on these engines. That was the first thing i repalced when i got got mine as it had sat for a while.
You might try replacing the valve stem seals, especially if one or both of the exhausts is smoking and / or has developed a hole since the problem first manifested.
In extreme cases of wear this might also involve replacing the valves & stems themselves and / or having the valves seats re-cut.
If the bike is burning oil at a rate of knots this is likely the problem.
I have a similar problem with my 900 Trophy & I'm convinced that's the source of it, although I've yet to remedy it.
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Runs better with choke means the mixture is lean,
Has the exhaust been changed.?
Did this problem just begin.?
Check for air leaks on intake manifold.
Check valve clearances
raise the needle jet one notch
one size up in the main jet.
check one item at a time, and write notes about jetting changes.and improvements
I also run Moreys upper cylnder lube, helps starting hot or cold, and helps stop "cough stopping" with heavy rear brake use
I'm not too familiar with Triumphs but assuming your bike has carbs and not fuel injection, then it is time to clean the fuel system. Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ). Install an in-line fuel filter.
For each carb > Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. Install a new stock NGK spark plugs and start the engine. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.
Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well. < < READ CLOSELY > > Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two screws down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each screw one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. This process should get you back on the road.
You may want to go to a richer main jet. If the jet is (for example) a 178 then change to a 180 or 182. This should fix the top end problem. Do this only if cleaning the carbs doesn't work. Please rate this solution. Thanks!