Want to take the center stand off my Bonnie both for weight purposes, and also since I'm going to be getting a lift, and won't really need the stand. Does anyone have any advice to get the double spring off? I gave a half hearted attempt to get it last night, but didn't have any luck, and it was getting dark, so I decided to give it a rest. Also, it looks like the bolts may not be able to be removed without taking off the silencers...is that correct? I've got the TORS on there now. Anyone have experience with doing this?
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Re: T100 center stand removal
I installed it without removing the stock silencers. I'd try loosening the bolts before removing the spring. Just be careful around the tensed spring.
If you're going to sell it (or keep it) make sure that you keep all the pieces, including the rubber stop on the silencer.
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www.triumphtwinpower.com/bonnevillet100-performance-tune-3.php?... Rating: 5 - 44 votes
I removed the O2 and AIS on my 2009 SE Bonnie. ... First thing I noticed was the smooth idle, next was the deeper exhaust note from my TEC 2:2 .... The power increase all over the band was very good , no popping or back fire at low rev's and
Left hand on handlebar grip, right hand on handle under the seat, right foot on the centerstand lever, bike vertical on flat ground with the handlebars/front tire straight. Push down on the foot lever of the stand while lifting from the handle. Most of the work done is by pushing the lever and the lift handle is mostly for stabilizing and helping to raise the bike. This applies to all bikes and once you get the feel for it you'll find that any size bike is pretty easy to put on the stand. I can center stand my CBR1100XX while on the bike, first time was hard, but once I got it down it's fairly easy.
Surprising not to have a centre stand fitted to a tourer, however it can be supported on the frame rails beneath the motor if weight is distributed over a large area and balanced. A sturdy crate or stand is required and someone to help you. A moveable ramp or block and tackle for front wheel is easier to lift and keep steady.
It is not necessary to release the alignment adjusters to remove the rear wheel so you need have no fear about that.
The first thing I do is put the bike on the centre stand with an inch thick plank of wood under the stand to give a bit of extra clearance when removing the wheel.
The only tricky thing is having the appropriate tools to undo the axle nut. If you don't have the original tool kit you will need to go and do some shopping for large allen keys.
Now all you have to do is remove the two retaining clips, slacken and remove the axle nut and pull out the axle - it can help to tap this from the nut end with a piece of broom handle or similar, and another pair of hands can be useful as the rear wheel is not light weight and needs a little manoeuvring.
Lift off the chain and hang it on the swinging arm and the wheel can be lifted out. Take care not to rest the wheel on the brake disc!
If it stopped while the oil pressure light was on...you may have damaged your engine. Your best path here would be to take to a dealer and have them check the bike out. Yes, I know this can be costly, but you are risking possible motor damage here, which is BIG bucks. Sorry don't have happier ideas.
Hi, I am assuming the old oil is drained. Once the tops are opened, lift the bike onto the center stand which will make the forks extend. Refill through the top of the fork with 12 oz of fork oil. The manual states that you must use oil with a weight of approximately SAE 3, and the amount going in needs to be equal in each fork. Hope this helps
1. Start with the bike on its side stand; 2. Grip left handlebar with left hand; 3. Grip frame member with right hand;
4. Place foot on center stand lever;
5. Pushing down on center stand, tilt bike till both legs of center stand touch ground;
6. Push down hard with foot and lift/pull on frame member.