I have followed the instructions on this forum to clean front brake calipers, but for some reason i now get a sound coming from the front when I apply the brakes.
What I have narrowed it down to is the disk it self. The little round things that allow the disk to self adjust are making the sound. Can it be that I did not put the calipers back correctly after cleaning, or do I just need a nice long ride for the disks to worm up and snap into place?
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 500 times.
Re: brake disc nosie after cleaning
Do not grease your disc bobbins.
Ok, since you removed the calipers, you have to suspect that the noise is being caused by an improper re-installation.
You do not mention it, but is there any lever pulsation when braking?
Without getting insulted, can you say what your mechanical resources are, and did you use a torque wrench?
I'm also beginning to wonder if you might be hearing normal noise that you never paid attention to before?
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Unbolt the caliper from front forks (2 bolts).
You'll have to move the caliper as far down as the hose will allow to clear the edge of the fender with the caliper to get it off the disc.
Remove the "hair-pin" clip on the one pad bolt, then remove the bolt.
Pop the old pads out of the caliper.
If master cylinder is almost full of brake fluid, siphon some out.
Clean off exposed pistons, then press them back into the caliper.
By hand is preferable, but you might need a "C" clamp to do this.
Install new pads, and reinstall pad pin.
Torque to 75-102 INCH lbs., and install "hair-pin" clip.
Reinstall caliper, and tighten two mounting bolts to 28-38 FOOT lbs.
Because the pistons were pushed back into the caliper (to compensate for the thicker new pads), it'll take several pumps of the brake lever before the pistons move the pads out enough to make contact with the disc.
DO THIS BEFORE RIDING OFF!!!!!!!!
Keep an eye on the master cylinder fluid level (don't let it get so low that air is introduced into the system), and top off with DOT 4 brake fluid.
Remove brake caliper mounting screws from where they mount on the front forks. Slide caliper off brake disc and secure caliper
out of the way. Do not operate the front brake lever with the front wheel
removed or the caliper pistons may be forced out. Reseating the pistons requires disassembly of the caliper. On models with dual disc brakes, remove both calipers.
Remove axle nut lockwasher and flat washer from axle on left side of vehicle.
On right side of vehicle, loosen nut on pinch screw. Pull axle out of hub while supporting wheel.
Remove spacer and front wheel assembly.
Keep track of where each of the different size spacer went so you can put the back in the same order when reassembling.
For reinstall, you should get a manual as you will need to get torc specs. and other spacing and assemble instructions.
Hello Dale, this is an easy job on your bike. Use a flat head screw driver and remove the brake pad cover...it will pop off. Remove the hairpin type clips off of the ends of the brake pad pins.... Use pliers & pull the brake pad pins out from the front of the rear brake caliper....Clean the rear brake caliper's piston with brake cleaner. Use a rag and wipe it clean...Reinsert the old brake pads into the caliper. Place a pry bar between the brake pads, then push the inner piston into the caliper body, this will allow room to install new pads.... Remove the old brake pads...Coat the brake pad pins and the new brake pads metal back plates with high-temperature grease.
Slip the new brake pads into the rear brake caliper, then push the brake pad pins halfway into the caliper. Slip the spring clips into place between the brake pads and the brake pad pins. Push the brake pad pins completely through the rear brake caliper. Push the hairpin clips back into the brake pad pin tips. Snap the brake pad cover onto the top of the rear brake caliper....
Pump the rear brake pedal until the pedal feels firm, indicating that the brake pads have closed around the brake rotor...No bleeding will be needed because the system was never opened - That's all there is to it...i hope this information is helpful & good luck with your bike.
It sounds like your fork seals are leaking, and the oil from them has contaminated the brakes, it is most inportant you have the seals repaired, and the brakes decontaminated if ness replace the pads, a good degreaser onthe brakes washed thorougly making sure you clean off all the oil fromthe calipers and the discs not forgeting any drilled holes inthe discs as oil stored here will further contaminate the brakes when they become hot, finnish off with an areosol of brake cleaner to leave a film free job RIDING YOUR MACHINE WITH CONTAMINATED BRAKES MAY RESULT IN AN ACCIDENT
By "locked up", I'm assuming that once you release the front brake lever, the bike will not roll. As with all disc brakes, the brake pads do not withdraw away from the disc. They maintain light pressure on the disc to keep it clean and dry. When you pull the lever, they apply stopping force. When you relaese the lever the force is releaved but the pads still stay in contact with disc lightly and the wheel will turn.
If you've tired another master cylinder and the brakes are still locking up, there is something wrong with either the hose or the caliper itself. Usually, it's the caliper. You must take the caliper off and use compressed air to get the piston out. You must be very careful while doing this. If you must use high air pressure, the piston will come out of the caliper with extreme force. I use a small air pressure regulator to slowly increase the pressure starting at about five psi.
If you get to 25 psi or better, things can get dangerous. At this point, I quit using air pressure and go to a grease gun. By taking the end off the end of the hose on the grease gun, it will screw right into the place where the brake line goes most of the time. Now pump the grease in until the piston pops out. It's a nasty job but a lot safer than the air pressure method. Clean the caliper up completely free of grease. Use a wheel cylinder hone to hone the inside of the caliper's piston bore. Pay particular attention to the groove where the caliper top seal goes in. Lubritcate the piston and the inside of the piston bore of the caliper with the proper type of clean brake fluid and press the piston into the bore. The caliper is now ready to reinstall. Make sure you are using the proper type of brake fluid. Harley changed back to DOT 4 brake fluid but I can't remember what year. It should be on the top of the master cylinder cover. Do not mix DOT4 and DOT 5.
I have on a few occasions seen a rubber brake hose that would not allow the brekes to release. They get damaged on the inside. The very high pressure present when you apply the brakes can get past an obstrucion on the inside of the hose. But, once you release the pressure, as the pressure lowers, it gets to a point where it cannot get past the obstruction and thus holds this amount of pressure on the caliper. Replace the brake hose.
Make sure you bleed all the air out of the system. If you leave any in there, as the air heats up, it expands and applies pressure to the brakes and makes them drag. Alweys test the brakes before riidng the bike. Improperly serviced brakes can cause serious injury or death. Good Luck, Steve
Sounds like you need to service the caliper. Remove the piston from the caliper by pumping the brake pedal, be warned you will get brake fluid everywhere. Remove piston seals, dust and oil, you'll probably find that the grooves where they usually reside are full of 'crud' thoroughly clean the grooves, clean the seals then inspect seals for damage and replace if necessary, grease seals (high temp grease) and put back into caliper, wipe away excess grease. Inspect piston for corrosion, minor corrosion can be flatted back with 1200 grit sandpaper, if too badly corroded replace. lightly grease piston (high temp grease) and push into caliper. the piston should slide in easily by hand. Finally bleed caliper well, flush new fluid through entire system.
Sounds like they need a damn good clean.
Corrosion eats away at the calipers, so strip them down & clean well. Be sure to remove the rubber boots as corrosion behind them grips on the shaft causing the caliper to not float & the brakes lock-on
If your wheel wont turn at all then hit the caliper bodies with a rubber mallet - dont hit the bleed nipple!!
!!! Please rate this as helpful (if it has been) !!!
WD-40 is fine for your calipers. Don't spray it on the pads, and if you spray the discs make sure you wipe them clean before the pads contact the disc. You don't want WD on your pads for obvious reasons.