I just made a trip to California and had to stop in Las Vegas’ on the way home to get a new set of tires. The rear tire was completely bald at 3250 miles. It might be different if it was all stops and starts but it was mainly hwy miles and the roads were very straight for the most part. I was riding two up with about a 50 LBS extra load but still the Bridgestone tire must have a very soft compound to only last that long. I got a set of Metzler’s in Vegas’ and they showed almost no wear on the last 900 miles of the trip. So if you’re going very far I would make sure there is a tire dealer with new tires on the way or just change them B/4 you go.
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Re: rear tyre wear
I have an 08' R3T that I bought in March, it has 3400 miles on it and the rear tire looks like I could put that many more on it. Not sure what brand it is but I check the pressure every other ride as Ihave learned that 42 in the rear and 38 on the front will make them last longer.
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if it has independent rear suspension then have the suspension rubbers checked and replace if necessary. Next for all wheel alignments it is essential that the rear end is aligned first to stop this tyre wear before the front wheels are aligned . IF you have leaf springs at the rear check for axle alignment and broken centre bolts or worn rubbers at the centre bolt mounts.
take the car to a suspension specialist shop and have the rear wheels aligned first
have the suspension checked for worn mounts or bad springs
it is very important that the rear end is aligned before the front end
suspect that the suspension rubbers need replacing as it is over 6 years old
the tyre rotation is a myth perpetrated on drivers to sell tyres
when the tyre construction was cross-ply and not radials yes rotation then on cross-ply tyres could get the wear to even out but with radials once the wear is started then the tyre continually wears in that pattern regardless of which wheel it is on
even if you take that tyre of the car and put it on a trailer , it will still continue to wear in that pattern
tyres are no longer rotated but simply put front to back on the same side other wise the belts flex in a new direction in the tread and fail earlier that expected
besides that fact that tyre rotation will not allow you to monitor for suspension problems or wheel alignment problems and cost you 4 tyres at a time instead of two
Hello there: The only possibility is that you need a camber adjustment. If
that were the case, the tires would be wearing more on the inside
edges. If they're not, either ease up on the gas a little bit, or just
put $2 a week in a piggy bank for your next set of rear tires, and
don't worry about it. the tires that come with this car are made of a relatively soft
compound. The softer the rubber, the goo-ier the tires, and the more
the car "sticks" to the road. That's one of the reasons you can drive
down circular parking garage ramps at 65 mph in this car. The downside
of softer tires is that they wear out faster. So it may be a
combination of your driving and the type of tires you have.
the front end will need alignment kits installed that allow for the adjustment to be made to correct the tire wear, this has to be done on a alignment machine to set correctly, just eye balling it is not an option.
THese cars have a high speed rated tire and will almost always wear quickly. The right rear is the drive wheel (where the power goes when you give it gas) It will wear real quickly if you drive it hard. I would try rotating every 7500 miles (unless tire sizes are different as with the SL series) I sell a lot of tires on these cars and 25K is usually the limit.
Unless there is noise or play when cornering sharply at low speeds (parking), the CV joint / boot is still ok. The joint does need grease in there and the rubber boot fitted properly very soon.
As the suspension is set, the axle does little more than provide drive. It doesn't affect toe-in or camber angle.
Camber angle (vertical tilt inwards) is a product of the suspension design, and often cannot be altered.
Weak front springs can also throw this angle out, as the vehicle sits too low.
Toe-in (forward point angle) can and must be set accurately, or you will skid about in wet weather depending which tyre grips more.
What is most important to you, is the tyre design, tread width and outer radius. Also the tyre pressures MUST be mid limit when cold on the front - otherwise excess wear will result.
Having tyres with a large contact area that are too rigid on the front will increase wear to the insides.
Also, it is good practice to rotate the tyres to even-out wear. Usually front tyres move to rear axle, and rears swap sides to front axle. If wear is uneven, pop them off and turn around before refitting. Some tyres you cannot do this with.
If you choose a tyre with a harder tread compound, or ones with "C" at the end of the code, these will again last a lot longer.
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