Question about 2005 Triumph Daytona 955i

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Chain adjustment question

I am at my first chain adjustment on an 02 Daytona. I also have a 17 tooth front sprocket I want to put on. It is the CE so it has the SSSA. I figure the only way that cranking that wheel will tighten the chain is if there is an offset hole that the axel rides in inside the hub. I also read somewhere that adjusting the chain affects the ride height. Does anyone know if 1) I need to drop a link in the chain to lose a tooth on the front sprocket and 2)if I can crank it forward so the hole drops down to lower the seat height rather than raise it? Thanks in advance for any help.

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Well i dont think the ride hieght will change, nothing you could notice, and if your changing sprockets its best to do both and a new chain, now i might add that it is preffered to change chain with sprockets not required if the sprockets are ok. As to the length i can only say i run the 17 tooth around the city and for the long trips i swap back to the 18, mind you it is a new 18 not the original, of course with the change back (2nd time) i have not changed the chain and have been running the same chain length, it has shortened the wheel base from the original 18 tooth front, but i kinda like it a little shorter, gives me more weight over it and the front gives more feed back, but thats just me, not saying its right

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

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    Serpentine belt


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    This is a job for an experienced technician. Probably about a $300 job. Maybe more.

    Here is procedure for 1996:

    Removal
    1. Drain the cooling system. Refer to Section 03-03 for the procedure.
    1. Disconnect the battery ground cable (14301).
    1. Remove the generator drive belt, water pump and power steering pump drive belt, and the A/C compressor drive belt (if equipped). Refer to Section 03-05 for the removal procedure.
    1. If equipped, remove the three A/C compressor drive belt idler pulley bolts and the A/C compressor drive belt idler pulley.
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    1. Remove the water bypass hose (8597) from between the thermostat housing and the water hose connection (8592).
    1. Remove the main wiring harness from the upper engine front cover (6019).
    1. Remove the eight upper engine front cover bolts and the upper engine front cover.
    1. Raise and support the vehicle.
    1. Remove the RH front wheel and tire assembly.
    1. Remove the four RH outer engine and transmission splash shield bolts and two screws and remove the RH outer engine and transmission splash shield (6775).
    1. Use Strap Wrench D85L-6000-A or equivalent to hold the water pump pulley (8509) while removing the four water pump pulley bolts.
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    1. Remove the crankshaft pulley (6312). Refer to the procedure in this section.
    1. Remove the five lower engine front cover bolts and the lower engine front cover.
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    2acab54.gif
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    19. Loosen the timing chain/belt tensioner nut.

    1. Remove the timing chain/belt.
    Installation
    NOTE: Ensure that the timing marks on the camshaft sprockets (6256) and the seal plate are properly aligned. Ensure that the timing marks on the crankshaft sprocket and the oil pump housing are still aligned.



    stv~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Pay special attention to the tooth shape of the timing belt. The current timing belts are not interchangeable with the timing belts from the 1993 model year. The 1993 model year uses a square or trapezoidal tooth timing belt while the current model year uses a rounded tooth design. The design change was made to extend the service life of the timing belt from 60,000 miles for the square or trapezoidal toothed belt to 105,000 miles for the rounded tooth belt. If the proper timing belt is not used, the customer may complain of a "whining" noise coming from the engine compartment. If the camshaft sprocket has a square cut in the valley of the gear tooth, it will require a square or trapezoidal tooth timing belt. If the camshaft sprocket has a rounded cut in the valley of the gear tooth, it will require a rounded tooth timing belt.
    NOTE: If a new timing chain/belt is to be installed, make sure that the arrow is pointing away from the engine. If a timing chain/belt is to be reused, make sure that the directional arrow that was marked during disassembly is facing the correct direction.

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    1. Allow the timing chain/belt tensioner to put pressure on the timing chain/belt.
    1. Use an Allen wrench to turn the timing chain/belt tensioner 70-80 degrees clockwise and tighten the timing chain/belt tensioner nut to 43-58 Nm (32-43 lb-ft).

      1. Rotate the crankshaft (6303) clockwise twice and align the No. 1 piston to Top Dead Center (TDC) on its compression stroke.
      1. Apply 98N (22 lbs) of force on the timing chain/belt between the rear camshaft sprocket and the timing chain/belt tensioner.
      2. NOTE: An assistant may be needed to adjust the timing chain/belt.

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        1. Install a 0.35mm (0.0138 inch) thick and 12.7mm (0.500 inch) wide feeler gauge as shown.

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    1. Tighten the timing chain/belt tensioner nut to 43-58 Nm (32-43 lb-ft).
    1. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to remove the feeler gauge from between the timing chain/belt tensioner and the timing chain/belt.
    1. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise twice and align the No. 1 piston to TDC on its compression stroke.
    1. Apply 98N (22 lbs) of force on the timing chain/belt between the rear and front camshaft sprocket.
      1. Measure the timing chain/belt deflection. Timing chain/belt deflection should be between 13-15mm (0.51-0.59 inch). If timing chain/belt deflection is not within specification, repeat steps 3-11. If the timing chain/belt cannot be adjusted to within specification, the timing chain/belt will have to be replaced.
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    Feb 14, 2009 | 1993 Mercury Villager

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