I am at my first chain adjustment on an 02 Daytona. I also have a 17 tooth front sprocket I want to put on. It is the CE so it has the SSSA. I figure the only way that cranking that wheel will tighten the chain is if there is an offset hole that the axel rides in inside the hub. I also read somewhere that adjusting the chain affects the ride height.
Does anyone know if 1) I need to drop a link in the chain to lose a tooth on the front sprocket and 2)if I can crank it forward so the hole drops down to lower the seat height rather than raise it? Thanks in advance for any help.
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Re: Chain adjustment question
Well i dont think the ride hieght will change, nothing you could notice, and if your changing sprockets its best to do both and a new chain, now i might add that it is preffered to change chain with sprockets not required if the sprockets are ok. As to the length i can only say i run the 17 tooth around the city and for the long trips i swap back to the 18, mind you it is a new 18 not the original, of course with the change back (2nd time) i have not changed the chain and have been running the same chain length, it has shortened the wheel base from the original 18 tooth front, but i kinda like it a little shorter, gives me more weight over it and the front gives more feed back, but thats just me, not saying its right
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hey Dominico, This is the way PROFESSIONAL mechanics do a chain/sprocket check and drive chain alignment and tension.. Proper chain tension is very important to the life of your chain and sprockets and performance of your bike. First, you need to check to see if the chain/sprockets need replacing. (Chain and sprockets are ALWAYS replaced as a set (-all-3)..if you replace a chain on worn sprockets.. the chain will stretch out QUICK.. and if you put new sprockets with a worn chain.. the sprockets will be worn out QUICK too!!) ...To do this..the bike needs to be on the center stand or bike stand...NOT on the side stand...
...now...--remove the chain guard-- next..Sprocket check time - take one hand and squeeze the chain (grab the chain above and below the swingarm) at the point between the axle and the swingarm bolt.. as hard as possible. to take all the slack out of the chain and put the tension completely around the back sprocket.. while you are squeezing the chain as hard and tight as possible.. - with your other hand - try to lift/pull the chain off the rear sprocket.. IF you can pull the chain off enough to see if there is a .200" or 5mm max. gap between the chain and sprocket - under the chain... or MORE THAN A HALF a tooth groove under the chain..or the chain pulls up more than two teeth...OR the teeth on either sprocket are "pointed thin" or rounded inside....you need to replace the chain/sprockets.
...ONCE you are sure the chain/sprockets are good..its time to CORRECTLY align and adjust the chain tension. Loosen the axle nut.. DO NOT remove it.. now - tap it gently to make sure its loose...loose the chain adjuster nuts.. back them off a good bit, but do not remove them...you may,also need to loose the rear brake caliper mounts ..you should be able to move the rear wheel forward and backward with your hand.(this is to assure you have sufficient "looseness" to make the proper adjustment...NOW - pull the rear tire backwards until it stops.. - run the adjuster nut(s) until they are just snug..ALIGNMENT - This is CRITICAL - (did you remove the chain guard yet?) - do that now. You must be able to see down the entire length of the chain (above the swingarm)..The chain MUST RUN IN A STRAIGHT LINE!! .. The little marks on the swingarm are just "guides".. never use them as perfect.. the only way to assure CORRECT ALIGNMENT is a visual check of the chain to make sure its in a straight line!!!! - ...ANY bend, crook, or mis-alignment will cause premature wear and tear, and make it harder for your engine to make it turn. - Now - Rotate the wheel and find the tightest point of the chain... there is one, and its normal... LEAVE the tight point located between the two sprockets on the top of the swingarm. This is where you will "feel" for the correct tension. The biggest thing most people miss when adjusting the tension is having the AXEL/NUT and the SWINGARM PIVOT SHAFT and the COUNTERSHAFT C/L (front sprocket shaft) IN A STRAIGHT LINE - ALL THREE ARE ON THE SAME PLANE!!!!! . NOW, You may have to get a buddy to help pull the swing arm up.. (I use a tie down strap through the rear wheel and over the seat pulled tight enough to make AND KEEP the STRAIGHT LINE!!)
..Once you have established the straight line - --- - --- - and MADE SURE the chain is RUNNING STRAIGHT on both sprockets.. NOW _ its time to adjust the tension. There WILL be a tightest and loosest point of the chain..(normal).. you MUST adjust the tension using the TIGHTEST point of the chain....set the tension so you can move the chain up and down (total movement) about 1 3/8 inch to a max of 2 inches!! Once you have established the chain is straight and the tension is correct, its time to TIGHTEN EVERYTHING in order... start with snugging the axle nut.. then snug the adjuster nuts more..-- DOUBLE CHECK you chain alignment.. now - tighten the axle - TIGHT!!... tighten the adjuster nuts..lock down the lock nuts.. tighten the caliper.. TRIPLE CHECK the alignment... double check the tension...double check all the nuts... install the chain guard... REMOVE whatever you use the keep the straight line straight..
TRIPLE CHECK ALL NUTS!!! NOW ROTATE THE REAR WHEEL AND CHECK FOR BINDING AND MAKE SURE THE CHAIN IS WORKING CORRECTLY AND NOT TOO LOOSE..
KNOW you have done a job correctly!! (I am a factory trained mechanic, race engine builder, port work guy, race tuner.).. GREAT JOB!!
Why do you need to know the size of the centre hole. That one look in great condition. The size is the size of the shaft it fits on, so you measure the narrower distance, which is between the sprocket tooth that is under the middle of your thumb nail, to the second tooth past your index finger. All this links have info.
Mini Chopper Sprocket and Clutch - DIY Go Karts
... a torque converter can be used which effectively gives the project an automatic transmission. ... mini-chopper's clutch ... tooth #35 pitch. This size sprocket ...
Sprockets - PartsForScooters
www.partsforscooters.com/Pocket-Bikes-Parts/Pocket-Bikes-SprocketMini-Chopper Parts; ... 127-19 . Stock 6 Tooth Front Sprocket with M10x1.00 thread size for 47 and 49cc 2-stroke cag style pocket bikes and mini-quads.
Mini Chopper Parts ' Mini Bike Parts ' We Ship
Home >> Parts Catalog> Mini-Chopper Parts. Parts For Mini Choppers Seats - Hand Controls - Fenders. ... SPROCKET 60T #35. 7-1/4" 28.50. 04-470. SPROCKET 72T ...
assuming you have the chain adjuster in the bar adjuster hole. This and the bar nuts will normally keep the bar in place and the chain adjusted. However if your drive sprocket on your saw is worn (deep grooves where the chain rides on the sprocket) it will cause the chain to try and climb over one tooth pulling the bar toward the saw loosening the chain. This can also happen if you put a worn chain on a new sprocket. In the end this overtight or loose condition will lead to failure of your sprocket nose bar. One other way can be the chain, the bar and the sprocket are not all the same pitch.
You can add teeth to the front sprocket or take teeth off of the rear sprocket. In the case of your bike , I do not think there is a 17 tooth front available so your best option would be to shorten your chain and drop from the 44 tooth rear sprocket to 40 tooth or a 36 tooth rear sprocket. That would be like adding one or two teeth to the front sprocket. Your stock is 16/44 so decrease from there. Be sure to ID your chain, get a chain breaker, and a new master link.
Just remove the chain cover then bend the tab on the lockwasher away from the nut so you can then remove the nut. Install the new sprocket and put the assembly back together. Stock gearing is a 13 tooth front sprocket and 48 tooth rear sprocket. The stock chain is 112 links plus master link. The chain is DID 520D 112L. Please rate my answer. Thanks.
chains & sprockets are subject to extreme forces & adverse conditions.adjust chain to recommended specs at the 'tight spot',with riders weight on saddle.excessively worn chain is denoted by being able to pull chain away from rear sprocket teeth enough to expose 1/2 a tooth.worn sprockets will have 'pointy'teeth.if wheel sprocket is worn,don't ignore drive sprocket.use a quality lube designed for exposed chains.
This is a job for an experienced technician. Probably about a $300 job. Maybe more.
Here is procedure for 1996:
Drain the cooling system. Refer to Section 03-03 for the procedure.
Disconnect the battery ground cable (14301).
Remove the generator drive belt, water pump and power steering pump drive belt, and the A/C compressor drive belt (if equipped). Refer to Section 03-05 for the removal procedure.
If equipped, remove the three A/C compressor drive belt idler pulley bolts and the A/C compressor drive belt idler pulley.
Remove the upper radiator hose bracket bolt.
Loosen the two upper radiator hose clamps and remove the radiator hose bracket bolt. Remove the upper radiator hose (8260) and the upper radiator hose bracket from the vehicle.
Remove the water bypass hose (8597) from between the thermostat housing and the water hose connection (8592).
Remove the main wiring harness from the upper engine front cover (6019).
Remove the eight upper engine front cover bolts and the upper engine front cover.
Raise and support the vehicle.
Remove the RH front wheel and tire assembly.
Remove the four RH outer engine and transmission splash shield bolts and two screws and remove the RH outer engine and transmission splash shield (6775).
Use Strap Wrench D85L-6000-A or equivalent to hold the water pump pulley (8509) while removing the four water pump pulley bolts.
Remove the water pump pulley from the water pump (8501).
Remove the crankshaft pulley (6312). Refer to the procedure in this section.
Remove the five lower engine front cover bolts and the lower engine front cover.
Ensure that the timing marks between the crankshaft sprocket (6306) and the oil pump housing line up.
18. NOTE: The directional arrow is necessary to ensure that the timing chain/belt (6268) can be reinstalled in the same direction.
If the timing chain/belt is to be reused, mark the direction of rotation on the timing chain/belt.
19. Loosen the timing chain/belt tensioner nut.
Remove the timing chain/belt.
Installation NOTE: Ensure that the timing marks on the camshaft sprockets (6256) and the seal plate are properly aligned. Ensure that the timing marks on the crankshaft sprocket and the oil pump housing are still aligned.
CAUTION: Pay special attention to the tooth shape of the timing belt. The current timing belts are not interchangeable with the timing belts from the 1993 model year. The 1993 model year uses a square or trapezoidal tooth timing belt while the current model year uses a rounded tooth design. The design change was made to extend the service life of the timing belt from 60,000 miles for the square or trapezoidal toothed belt to 105,000 miles for the rounded tooth belt. If the proper timing belt is not used, the customer may complain of a "whining" noise coming from the engine compartment. If the camshaft sprocket has a square cut in the valley of the gear tooth, it will require a square or trapezoidal tooth timing belt. If the camshaft sprocket has a rounded cut in the valley of the gear tooth, it will require a rounded tooth timing belt. NOTE: If a new timing chain/belt is to be installed, make sure that the arrow is pointing away from the engine. If a timing chain/belt is to be reused, make sure that the directional arrow that was marked during disassembly is facing the correct direction.
NOTE: A new timing chain/belt has three white timing marks that indicate the correct timing positions of the camshafts and the crankshaft. These marks will help ensure that the engine (6007) is timed properly. When the engine is properly timed each white timing mark on the timing chain/belt will be aligned with the corresponding camshaft and crankshaft timing mark on the sprocket. Because the white timing marks are not evenly spaced you will need to refer to the following illustration for proper timing chain/belt placement. There should be 40 timing belt teeth between the timing marks of the front and rear camshaft sprockets and 43 teeth between the timing mark on the front camshaft sprocket and the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket.
NOTE: Verify that the camshaft timing marks are aligned with the timing marks on the seal plate, and that the crankshaft sprocket timing mark is aligned with the timing mark on the oil pump (6600).
Install the timing chain/belt starting at the crankshaft sprocket and moving around to the camshaft sprockets following a counterclockwise path. Do not allow any slack in the timing chain/belt between the timing sprockets. After all of the timing marks are matched up with the timing chain/belt installed, slip the timing chain/belt onto the timing chain/belt tensioner.
While holding the timing chain/belt tensioner with an Allen wrench, loosen the timing chain/belt tensioner nut.
Allow the timing chain/belt tensioner to put pressure on the timing chain/belt.
Use an Allen wrench to turn the timing chain/belt tensioner 70-80 degrees clockwise and tighten the timing chain/belt tensioner nut to 43-58 Nm (32-43 lb-ft).
Rotate the crankshaft (6303) clockwise twice and align the No. 1 piston to Top Dead Center (TDC) on its compression stroke.
Apply 98N (22 lbs) of force on the timing chain/belt between the rear camshaft sprocket and the timing chain/belt tensioner.
NOTE: An assistant may be needed to adjust the timing chain/belt.
While holding the timing chain/belt tensioner steady with an Allen wrench, loosen the timing chain/belt tensioner nut. Remove the Allen wrench and adjust the timing chain/belt tensioner as follows:
Install a 0.35mm (0.0138 inch) thick and 12.7mm (0.500 inch) wide feeler gauge as shown.
Turn the crankshaft clockwise to position the feeler gauge between the timing chain/belt tensioner and the timing chain/belt
Tighten the timing chain/belt tensioner nut to 43-58 Nm (32-43 lb-ft).
Turn the crankshaft clockwise to remove the feeler gauge from between the timing chain/belt tensioner and the timing chain/belt.
Rotate the crankshaft clockwise twice and align the No. 1 piston to TDC on its compression stroke.
Apply 98N (22 lbs) of force on the timing chain/belt between the rear and front camshaft sprocket.
Measure the timing chain/belt deflection. Timing chain/belt deflection should be between 13-15mm (0.51-0.59 inch). If timing chain/belt deflection is not within specification, repeat steps 3-11. If the timing chain/belt cannot be adjusted to within specification, the timing chain/belt will have to be replaced.
Position the lower engine front cover and install the five lower engine front cover bolts. Tighten the five lower engine front cover bolts to 3-5 Nm (27-44 lb-in).
Install the outer timing chain/belt guide and the crankshaft pulley. Refer to the procedure in this section.
Position the water pump pulley on the water pump and install the four water pump pulley bolts
Use Strap Wrench D85L-6000-A or equivalent to hold the water pump pulley, and tighten the four water pump pulley bolts to 16-21 Nm (12-15 lb-ft).
Position the RH outer engine and transmission splash shield and install the four RH outer engine and transmission splash shield bolts and two screws.
Install the RH front wheel and tire assembly. Tighten the lug nuts (1012) to 98-118 Nm (72-87 lb-ft).