I have two magnet marelli coils I want to check that I am wiring them up correctly. They have two terminals a single spade connection with an R next to it. I take it this is the terminal for the green and red connections
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Re: Coils on a Le Mans 3
One on each coil. The other a dual spade connection which should join together the two coils and the live terminal coming through from the ignition module. Is this correct. I have a broken screw cap for the HT lead on one that needs replacing I'll try to source one if not does anyone one have a spare lying about.Cheers Guys,I am trying to get the beast firing again, having problems, I am using a Newtronic system.,Knock the centre out of an old plug so that you can slide a scewdriver or similar through it.
Put a timing disc on the front of the engine (alternator)
Rock the engine back and too past tdc noting position, say 2.00mm either side of tdc (with a dial gauge on top of the screwdriver).
Centre, then touch the flywheel here with a drill point.
Turn engine back required amount (34 degree?) and touch flywheel with drill point again.
I do different colours left and right than I know which cylinder Im looking at.
Ignore every other mark on the flywheel.
Set to these marks at 5000 rpm with strobe
Can't set Newtronics static ,,,
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if you went to the sthil pages I referred you to , there is one for a chain saw coil that has a spade terminal on the coil
as most coils would be the same I would put that spade fitting on the coil and the other terminal under a mounting bolt
remove the spark plug and pull the cord and see if the spark is at the plug gap
check that the system is switched on first
the blank one and you can check this out after the bike is running or at least when you get the coil to fire by placing the lead part of a pencil in the gap between the spark plug or a good ground and the gap between the pencil and the spark plug wire so you can see the spark jump to the plug or ground from the plug wire and if the spark flash is on the wire side of the pencil the coil the coil is wired with wrong polarity if the system is a positive ground system. The coil will work no matter what the polarity ie no matter which of the terminals you connect to power and which you connect to ground, the only difference will be a somewhat weaker spark if electron flow is reversed from what it should be i.e. if it is from negative or ground to positive on a negative ground system or as on some older British ignition systems from positive to negative on a positive ground system. The flash will appear on the side of the pencil lead away from the current flow i.e. the flash will occur as the current leaves the pencil lead. Hope this helps.
If you have 3 wires it's most likely a single fire coil. Meaning one spark per cylinder. A dual fire will typically have two wires and fire both cylinders at the same time, but only one will produce power since it's on the compression stroke and the other cylinder isn't.
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I recommend a diagnostic scan to confirm my diagnosis of a malfunctioning coil(s). How to Test and Replace Ignition Coil on BMW 3 Series
The following procedures apply for BMW 3 series (6-cylinders engine) 1992 - 1998 model years. To Test and Replace the Ignition Coil, do the following:
Remove plastic engine covers from top of engine by prying off nut covers and removing cover mounting nuts.
Disconnect harness connector from coil. Connect multimeter between terminal 15 (+) in connector and ground. (use a digital multimeter for the following test). See Fig.1. below BMW 3 series coil harness
Turn ignition on and check for battery voltage. If battery voltage is not present, check wire between terminal 15 and ignition switch. The wiring to terminal 15 (+) of the coil (via the ignition switch) is not fuse protected. Use care when testing this circuit.
Turn ignition off.
Use a multimeter to test coil primary resistance at coil terminals. (primary coil terminals: 1 (-) and 15 (+), primary coil resistance: 0.4-0 .8 ohms; secondary coil terminal and resistance: NA).
Remove coil and inspect coil housing for hairline cracks or leaking casting material . A leaky ignition coil may indicate a faulty engine control module (ECM). Check ECM before installing a new coil.
When replacing ignition coils, ensure that the replacement coil(s) are from the same manufacturer containing the same part code numbers. If individual coils with the correct specifications are not available, all coils should be replaced.
If you are referring to the ignition coil, that is generally a sign that "voltage" is being applied "to it". Not sure if anyone has been messing with the wiring, changed an ignition switch, etc. There is a single "ground" wire that hooks to a spade terminal on the coil. This is for grounding only, if something gets crossed and battery voltage goes to this terminal it will blow the coil about as fast as you turn the key. Hope this helps.
The coils primary circuit terms. should be labeled "+" and "-". With key on check for 12v @ wire to "coil +" and "coil -" grounds through points. When ground's removed (points open) magnetic field collapses inducing high voltage (spark) in "secondary" circuit.
This is strange. I've been working on Harley's for almost 40 years and I've only run into two bad coils on the later model bikes. Are you using original equipment coils? If so, are you using the correct ones?
Coils come in different varieties for different uses. There are coils made for racing, road use, electronic ignitions, and points type ignitions. The coil you want is for road use with electronic ignition. If you use a digital volt ohm meter and test the resistance of the primary winding of the coil, it should check out at between 3 and 4 ohms. The "primary" winding is the coil of wire inside the coil that goes from one small terminal to the next. Put your DVOM leads on the small terminals, one lead on each terminal, with the meter in "R x 1" position. It should read between 3 and 4 ohms.
test with a digital multimeter set to ohms. if you don't have one of those laying around grab a 9 volt battery and run wires from the 2 terminals on the battery to 2 of the terminals on the woofer. if the woofer pops out you are said to be "in phase" (even though it has more to do with polarity that phasing but regardless) which means the positive from the battery is on the positive of the woofer and the negative is to the negative. those 2 terminals on the woofer are a single coil and obviously the other 2 terminals are the 2nd coil. now depending on what impedance each coil is will determine how you have to wire it to be 4 ohms unless they are 4 ohm coils which means you just use one coil and it will be 4 ohms on that woofer.
There's no real way to check the coil, it either works or it doesn't. I've found that with my Harley's when I lose spark it's generally a bad wire or loose connection. If the wires/connections are good, then it's either the coil or the ignition module. I'd say with the newer Crane on it, that the problem is going to be with the coil. Check the voltage from the ignition module going into the coil. I'm not exact on the voltage, but as long as you have a good strong current getting to the coil, and low to nothing on the plug wire side, then the coil is bad.
First of all how many ohm's are each subwoofer rated at . Are the subwoofers dual voice coil or single voice coil. Once I know that I can help you. I think the JL amp is not recommended below a 2ohm load.