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Re: Stone Swing Arm Question
On the right-hand side. Extracted the bung and found some grey fluid in the tube smelling like gear oil. Checked the LHS but nothing there. No indication of a leak anywhere and no drips. Had a look in Guzziology but couldn't find anything relevant.
Any explanation?1.) Don't drop the oil level in the gearbox. It won't make a skerrick of difference to the weep and there is a risk that too little oil will damage bearings and pinnions.
2.) The most likely source of the oil is not the gearbox but the bevelbox. The crownwheel iof the box acts as a centrifugal pump picking up oil in the biox and throwing it around. Some of this oil ends up being flung at the pinion bearings and works it's way through and up the swingarm. This is especially true on models that have either had their suspension lowered or are thrashed regularly for long distances heavily laden. It can eventually work it's way past the splines at the back of the UJ where it meets the shaft and then pools in the UJ housing or is flung around in a spray as the UJ spins and whips it up! When this happens some of it may well be ejected up the stub axle with the result that it will appear at the bung.
3.) If it *is* the gearbox leaking it is most likely NOT to be the seal but the o-ring beneath the speedo drive support washer on the output shaft that is leaking. The gearbox ISN'T pressurised in any real way expansion of the contents is taken care of by venting expanded air via a breather on the back of the box. Any leakage past either the seal or the o-ring will generally be very minor unless something serious has happened like the cage of the output shaft bearing has collapsed and punched it's way past the seal. If you check the gearboxl regularly and it isn't loosing more than 30-40ml between changes it's nothing to worry about. Loss out of the output shaft seal or o-ring simply ensures that the seals on the caps of the UJ trunnions will remain moist and soft and help prevent the bearings inside the caps from drying out. If you're losing more than that, (And it will end up in the bevelbox eventually after working it's way past splines and bearings.) it will show up as the bevelbox being grossly over-full when you remove the level inspection plug from it and a blurt of oil will run out.
The fact that you mention that it is a 'Grey' fluid makes me think that it is most likely to be oil from the bevelbox as this should have moly in it and this will present as a 'Grey' colour in the oil as it seeps out.
Unless you are experiencing any other *worrisome* symptoms I'd simply seal up tghe bung with a dab of silicone or some such to prevent the weepage and check the gearox and bevelbox oil levels regularaly for a few weeks to make sure you aren't getting a gross re-distribution of oil from gearbox to bevelbox. If it all checks out OK? Stop worrying. ,,,
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Get hold of a service manual OR go to dealer and ask for photocopy of the relevant parts breakdown picture page.
Right side you have axle going through swing arm into a short spacer, through right wheel bearing, internal spacer, left wheel bearing out the left side through a longer spacer, and then the swing arm and then on the axle you will have a washer, cone nut and an "E" clip. Inside the swing arm ends you have the belt adjustment pieces that normally would not come out of the swing arm ends. And of course on the right side you would also have the brake caliper mounting and support arm.
There is no other way, but with gentle brut force. Remove the nut and lay the bike on its side with swing arm bolt thread exposed and facing up.
Use Q20 / WD40 or any type of aerosol anti seize releasing fluid by spraying it on to bolt thread and swing arm making sure to get the fluid to enter the bolt hole of the swing arm. You might have to do this for a couple of days to a week 5 - 10 times a day. Leave the bike lying on its side. To check, replace nut leaving 2 - 3mm gap before its against the swing arm and hammer it lightly without damaging the thread for movement. If no luck, you will have to drill 3 - 4 (3mm) holes in to the swing arm on the section where the bolt slides through to spray the fluid directly on to the bolt shaft. You can weld or plug the 3 or 4 holes after you have removed the seized bolt, but be careful not to obstruct the bolt hole. It takes some patience but you will get it out.
Raise rear tire off ground. Loosen chain adjusters, loosen and remove axle nut and remove axle. Remove chain from rear sprocket. Remove bolt from lower shock mounts. Loosen nut on swing arm and remove swing arm bolt.
put bike on support stand or jack up rear wheel. remove small plastic cover on the left side swing arm and remove nut that anchors brake drum housing to the swing arm support. remove the rear brake linkage from the rear drum. remove the axle nut and slide out axle shaft from axle housing. Be careful to notice the position of the spacer and washers. the installation is the same as removal. be sure to re-adjust the rear brake linkage. If adjusted properly prior to removal it might help to mark the position of the nut on the linkage before removing.
The problem is that the engine, or swing arm should be removed in order to make his job easy . Make sure that the bearing behind the seal doesn't have play side to side . I don't think you could get enought room to slip the new seal over the shaft by removing the final drive unit at the rear wheel, the locking bolt under the rubber boot behind the seal,and sliding the drive shaft assembly back into the swing arm cup . If you have to pull the swing arm off, it would be a good time to re-pack the bearings with moly grease . The old seal just prys out, and the new seal must be tapped in evenly . Do not distort the seal . Try to find something round that fits the seal to tap opon . I have used plastic pipe . J
On my 06 kingpin, there is a single pin that is held in place with a retaining pin. Take out retaining pin, slide out long pin, then pads slide right out. Be sure to press calipers open with screwdriver prior to removing old pads and be careful to not scratch the rotors
Loosen the rear axle nut mounting the wheel to the swing arm, then loosen the lock bolt on the top of the chrome adjuster ( left and right adjusters ), then loosen the lock nut on the long adjuster screw. Run the nut about 1/2" down the length of the adjuster screw. Now turn the adjuster screws equally in a clockwise direction to remove the excess slack from the chain. There should be index lines on the swing arm that the single index line on the chrome adjuster is referenced to. Example; If the chrome index line meets up with perhaps the fourth index mark on the swing arm on the left side, the right side should be at the same position. This keeps the wheel in alignment. When the adjustment is finished tighten the axle nut then tighten the adjuster lock nuts and then tighten the lock bolt on top of the chrome adjusters.
Leave some slack in the chain. Mid-chain you should be able to move the chain up and down about one and one half inches. If the chain can be lifted at the rear sprocket it is too loose. Lubricate the chain and the control cables on the bike. What condition are the front and rear sprockets in? The teeth should be bluntly rounded at the tip. If the teeth are sharp at the tip, or getting that way, then the sprockets are way past time to be replaced. Note that a worn sprocket can quickly ruin a new chain.
put a 2x4 or similar through the back wheel on top of swing-arm: this will lock wheel from rotating while you crack the nut. NEVER put the transmission in gear. When re-torquing the nut after refitting, put the 2 x 4 under the swing-arm instead of on top (since wheel will want to rotate opposite direction
Hi ..... Welcome to the 'custom' world ! As you've discovered changing one thing leads to another. The chain angle has changed due to the shock length. You could try going to a breakers and buy another chain guide rubber ? More involved solutions could be to off set gear box sprocket, intermediate chain tensioner pully, go back to stansard shocks (which is main problem) and widen rear mudhuard/fender (which as you can weld isn't a big issue) or make up a 'tunnel' out of a round or square section of nylon and allow the chain to run through it. Let us know how you get on.