Question about 1990 Moto Guzzi 750 Targa

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Cluch I have to adjust the little screw and nut set up on the clutch lever arm on the gearbox. Normally I just scrabble around under the bike cussin an a swearin to adjust this. Its a real phafff about job. Can you get to the adjuster nut from the top if you pull the battery and the battery plate?

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Swings and roundabouts! its a lot quicker to do it the way you mention but by removing the battery and battery plate which takes time you can give a whole area a clean up and then after doing the adjustment spray something like 'Duck Oil' around which will help keep the dirt away.,

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

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When I start my C50 it seems as though the clutch grabs a little, not enough to take off but enough that the bike pulls forward just a little. Can that be adjusted


Remove the rear left hand chrome engine cover. Two 8mm headed bolts hold this cover on. under it you will see a device that the clutch cable is hooked to. It has a 10mm lock nut and a phillips head adjusting screw in the center of it. Loosen the nut and turn the screw in untill light resistance is felt. Then back the screw out 1/8-1/4 turn and holding in that position lock the nut. Use the cable adjuster at the lever under the rubber boot to acieve a slight amount of free play in the lever as you begin to pull it in. A freeplay gap between the lever and the perch of about 5-6 mm is good. If all is correct internally with your clutch assembly this should take care of the dragging .

Nov 15, 2014 | 2006 Suzuki Boulevard C50

1 Answer

Clutch not working?


About halfway down the clutch cable is an adjustment, covered by an accordian boot.

Slide the boot up out of the way, and at the adjuster, loosen the lock nut, and shorten the adjuster as short as possible.

Go back to the clutch pressure plate you seen under the primary cover.
In the center is an allen head screw with a lock nut around it.

Loosen the lock nut, and turn the allen head out about 1/2 - 3/4 turn.

Slowly turn it back in until you just feel it touch something. This is the adjustment screw touching the pushrod that moves the pressure plate out, to allow the clutch to release. Make sure the lock nut is unscrewed enough that it is not hitting the plate, causing the adjustment screw to feel like it stopped.

Again, with the adjustment screw JUST lightly touching, unscrew it 1/2 to 1 full turn.
Hole the screw from turning while you tighten the lock nut (about 20 ft/lbs torque, slightly more than spark plugs).

Now, go back to the cable adjuster, and unscrew it so the adjuster lengthens.
You want to adjust it so there is just a little free play at the clutch lever.
At the clutch lever, pull the cable away from it just enough to remove any free play. You're NOT trying to pull the cable off! LIGHTLY pull just to remove slack!

Proper adjustment is when the gap created by the above (between cable end and clutch lever cable holder/mount) is 1/16" - 1/8", go back and tighten cable adjustment lock nut, while holding the adjuster from turning.
3 wrenches help, 2 in one hand to hold the two adjuster hexes, and a 3rd one to tighten the lock nut.

Pull the clutch lever 3-5 times to insure the clutch release ramp balls are seated, and recheck the cable gap at the clutch lever.

If this doesn't work, the clutch plates probably got "welded" together (not literally, but a term used to indicate they are stuck together).

Then you'll have to tear the clutch pack apart to free up/inspect the plates.
A special clutch diaphram spring tool is needed for this.

Mar 01, 2014 | 2004 Suzuki RM 125

1 Answer

Clunks into gear, cant find neutral while bike is running


Adjust clutch!

Loosen adjuster on clutch cable completely.

Remove round cover on primary cover.
Loosen lock nut around screw in center of clutch plate.
Back off adjusting screw.
Tighten screw until it JUST touches.
Back off 1/4 turn.
Hold in place while tightening lock nut.

Adjust clutch cable adjuster until there's 1/16-1/8" free play at hand lever.

Feb 07, 2013 | 2003 Harley Davidson FLSTF Fat boy

1 Answer

I have a 2002 KTM 520 mxc. The bike started shifting hard as it warmed up. I replaced the clutch plates and springs with a Barnett digger kit. Bike shifts good now, but is slipping at higher RPMs.


The cable may be binding or the clutch adjustments may be wrong; there is normally two adjustments that have to be made if it is a cable style clutch.

1. the first adjustment will be on the engine near the clutch push rod and normally has a screw and locknut that is to be adjusted. Turn the handlebar adjustment first all the way in so that the cable has a lot of slack in it. Untighten the lock nut from the lower engine adjustment screw so that it does not interfere with the adjustment screw moving. Turn the screw inward until a very light tension is felt on the screw, then back it out about an 1/8 inch or so. tighten the lock nut back down and see if the locknut and screw together will rotate about 5-10 degrees when turned (this adjustment must not be so tight that it can not rotate when checked or it could cause clutch slipping so make sure that the adjustment screw rotates some after the locknut is tightened.

2. The final clutch adjustment is made at the handlebar. Turn the adjustment screw on the handlebar out until the clutch lever has about 1/8 inch of movement (before any tension is felt on the clutch lever) when the clutch lever is first being squeezed. Do not make the 2nd adjustment without any slack in the cable or the clutch may also slip.

If this is a hydraulic clutch and it slips at high rpm, the clutches could be getting hot, the springs are wrong for the clutch, or the clutch and steel fibers have the wrong installed height for the clutch hub (check the original clutch fibers and steels against the new ones installed and see that they are the same thickness or look up that fiber/steel thickness in a service manual).

Jul 23, 2012 | KTM MXC 520 Racing Motorcycles

1 Answer

I am having problems shifting from first to second. It gets stuck in neutral and will not go to second.


Let's try adjusting your clutch. Follow the clutch cable down until you find the rubber bellows. Slid the bellows up and you'll see the cable adjuster. Loosen the lock nut and adjust the cable as short as it will go.

Now, remove the derby cover. In the center of the clutch assembly you'll see an adjuster screw and a lock nut. Loosen the lock nut and turn the adjuster screw inwards until you feel pressure against the screw. Don't force the screw as you will start to release the clutch. Once you've went in until you feel resistance, back out 1/2 to 1 full turn. Lock the lock nut down.

Now at the cable adjuster, adjust the cable out until you have about an 1/8" freeplay at the lever. Lock the lock nut. Now, test the clutch to see if it's dragging. Pull in the clutch, put the tranny in first gear, hit the start button. If the bike tries to creep forward, the cluch is dragging and you need to tighted the cable just a bit. If the bike does not try to pull forward and you can find neutral with the engine running, your clutch is working like it should.

If this does not solve your problem, the shifter pawl in the transmission may need to be adjusted. This requires special tools and an educated touch. This job would be better left to a professional.

Good Luck
Steve

May 07, 2010 | 2000 Harley Davidson FXDWG Dyna Wide Glide

1 Answer

Gear change


hi,this is quite a common problem on these,before you put it into gear pull the lever in two or three times,this will loosen up the clutch plates a little,if i am right it normally only happens when the bike is cold?,the cause is the oil in the gearbox(wet clutch)is probably a little bit heavy,this is why bikes use a multigrade/friction modified oil,hope this helps...cheers

Apr 29, 2010 | 1984 Yamaha XJ 600

1 Answer

Clutch adjustment on a fxlr 1991


I assume you want to know how to adjust the clutch on a '91 FXLR. I love the FXR. Best handling Big Twin Harley ever made. It's a shame they quit making them.

Anyway, look around near the two down tubes at the front of the frame and you'll find an accordian type boot over the clutch cable. Move this boot up or down the cable so that you can gain access to the cable adjuster. Loosen the lock nut and turn the adjuster inward making the cable as short as you can.

Now, remove the derby cover from the outer primary cover. If the bike is on the stand, some of the oil in the primary may run out. If it does, it was probably overfilled. Overfilling the primary will make the clutch drag. Only fill the primary up to the bottom of the outer clutch basket with the bike standing straight up. Just enough oil so that the starter ring gear picks it up and slings it around in the primary case. Now, with the derby cover off, you'll see an adjustment screw with a lock nut in the center of the pressure plate. Loosen the lock nut and turn the screw inwards until you feel a resistance. I usually back the screw back out a bit and then back in until I feel the resistance several times so that I know I'm not going in too far and actually starting to release the clutch with the screw. Once you are satisfied that you've turned the screw in until you have just reach the resistance, back the screw back out 1/2 to 1 full turn. Hold the screw with a screwdriver and lock the lock nut. Replace the derby cover.

Now, readjust your cable adjuster until you get about an 1/8" freeplay at the clutch lever. About the thickness of a nickle between the lever and the lever perch. Most people like the way the clutch engages at this point but you can "tweak" it a little if you like.

Good Luck and Ride Carefully!

Nov 22, 2009 | 1993 Harley Davidson FXR Super Glide

2 Answers

1995 ford ranger with new cluch and slave. still has pedle play for the first half of the pedle throw


IF YOU ARE SURE THE MASTER CYL IS GOOD ,WHICH I WOULD HAVE DOUBTS ABOUT ,THEN YOU NEED TO ADJUST THEPUSH ROD AT THE TOP OF THE CLUCH PEDAL "YOUDOIT "

Oct 23, 2009 | 1995 Ford Ranger Supercab

1 Answer

Cluch slips


I dont have a manual for that bike, but i think there is an internal clutch adjustment that may help. if not properly set, the clutch will slip under a heavy load. if it does have the adjustment, it will be on one side of the engine and it should look like a 10 or 12mm nut with a set screw. loosen the nut and adjust the set screw one way or the other until there is NO tension on the screw. tighten the nut and then re-adjust your clutch lever for proper free play. if that dont work, install high performace clutch plates. again, im not certain that bike has the internal adjustment. take a look. hope this helps...

May 27, 2009 | 1981 Yamaha XJ 650

1 Answer

Clutch bite is too far away from handlebar


There should be about 1/8" end play on the clutch handle. Adjust the cable at the handlebars where the cable goes into the clutch lever housing. Screw the adjuster inward until the end play is present. Some bikes have an adjuster at the gearbox where the cable hooks up.

May 05, 2009 | Hyosung RX 125 Motorcycles

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