Question about 1989 Laverda SFC 1000

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Petrol Pump At a recent ride day I noticed the performance of my SFC 1000 dropping as the fuel level got lower in the tank

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You need to check the flow rates for the pump if you are going to fir one, as the Lav consumes a lot of fuel!

Posted on Aug 23, 2009

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Once the tank was topped up away we went again performance restored. The topic of fuel delivery has been touched before I know. The carbs float level and jets are OK so we can assume that the fuel delivery side of things is up to spec. I remember having a conversation with someone a few years ago on this topic and their comment was that either in the wiring loom or in the wiring diagram there was provision for an electric fuel pump. Can anybody confirm this? The problem is not new, I've noticed it on many previouse occasions, offcourse only on WOT applications such as Eastern Creeks long straight. To rectify the problem I propose to fit a low pressure electric fuel pump in the fuel pipe. It would need to be relatively small ofcourse. Any suggestions? ,I remember reading about the Gowanlock blokes running the DB1 at Bathurst and having similar problems,it took them ages to sort, it turned out to be the tank breather not flowing enough.How close to reserve was the fuel level.How many laps had you done,sounds like you think the head of the tank eg gravity feed is insuficent to meet demand after some fuel is used.I am sure you have thought about the obvious stuff eg ,,,

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

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Hi, Anonymous the following applies to carbureted also fuel injected models and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, 9 volts or lower.
2. Faulty alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Faulty main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
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10. Fuel tank empty.
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Just purchased bike from owner who had the bike stationary for a while. While riding it sputters and jerks. Once I open throttle it moves. it only has 9900 klm and it is in fantastic condition.


Hi The dealership are right but there are ways of dealing with the problem that don't require loads of cash. I had a similar problem with a Suzuki SV some years ago. i researched the problem on the web and spoke to a few bike performance places fuel goes off and causes all manner of problems with fuel injection and carbs.

I cured my problem by get a couple of bottles of injector and carb cleaner for petrol.engines you simply pour it into the tank and ride. I used Comma Petrol Magic (about £6 here in the UK) filled to nearly full tank poured the contents of 1 bottle into the tank and rode around after a few miles and a few small backfires I found the bike was performing much better and idle was nearly normal. I use this product every couple of months (normally ½ a bottle to a full tank) bike rides great. Hope this helps.

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Hi, Anonymous the following applies to carbureted also fuel injected models and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, 9 volts or lower.
2. Faulty alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
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13. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
14. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below. Good luck and have nice a day.
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Hi Patrick, you can start by going to smaller main jets untill you notice poor performance then go up one size, and the usual suspects are:
1. Excessive use of enrichner system.
2. Enrichner valve not seated or leaking
3. Dirty air cleaner element.
4. Restricted fuel tank vent system.
5. High speed riding style.
6. Idle speed improperly adjusted.
7. Loose jets.
8. Float level too high.
9. Plugged or restricted bowl vent.
10. Worn or damaged needle or needle jet.
11. Vacuum piston assembly malfunction.
12. Plugged air jets or passages.
13. Excessive accelerator pump output.
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May 12, 2012 | Harley Davidson Motorcycles

1 Answer

A tissue paper fell into my petrol tank


Hi.

Don't worry about it, if you loose performance in the next few days then you know where to look but it shouldn't clog up the filter.
If you find that you are worried about it then you will have to take the gas tank off, drain the fuel and the flush the paper out.


Regards.

Dec 08, 2011 | 2011 Bajaj Pulsar 150

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When i go out and ride for over 20 mins all of a suddern when i slow for traffic lights or a roundabout the revs just drop to 0 and i can smell petrol. It bumps and restarts on button but its very scary...


Hi, Marc the following applies to carbureted also fuel injected models and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or damaged battery, 9 volts or lower.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Air/fuel mixture screw improperly adjusted.
10. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
11. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
12. Fuel tank empty.
13. Gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
14. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
15. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
16. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
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Nov 09, 2011 | 2005 BMW F 650 CS Scarver

1 Answer

I want to know the oil level at a 1981 xlh harley 1000 when cold


Your dipstick should have two marks on it. The top mark is "FULL HOT" and the lower mark is "FULL COLD". Check the oil level with the bike on the side stand. My advice is to never add oil to the oil tank when the engine is cold. As long as you can see oil on the stick, ride the bike until it reaches operating temp and then add oil only when it's below the lower mark when hot. I never "top the oil off". The reason you never add oil to the tank when cold is that if the bike is not ridden for a period of time, the oil will seep by the check valve in the oil pump. It does this because the oil tank is located higher on the frame than the engine. The oil collects in the engine cases. If you "top the oil tank off", when the engine is started and it pumps the oil from the case into the tank, the tank is now overfilled. It will blow the filler cap out and oil will go everywhere making a big mess.

Good Luck
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Jul 11, 2011 | 1979 Harley Davidson XLH 1000 Sportster

1 Answer

2010 1200 Sportster, although 100+ miles fuel


Ride the bike until it starts "holding back" or whatever it does. If you think it's fuel level related. Disconnect the fuel line at either the carb or the tank. Turn the fuel on, or if you have one of those vacuum operated petcocks, apply vacuum with a hand operated vacuum pump to open the petcock and test the fuel flow. See if you have a full stream of fuel coming out of the hose. Then fill the tank, and retest. Notice the difference in the flow.

Now, if there is a noticable difference, what is causing it. It could be the petcock screen. I've seen the screens have a "too high" standing pipe for the main fuel supply. The screen has a "pipe" made into it that is usually about an inch above the petcock. Fuel flows down this pipe when the petcock in the "ON" position. When the fuel level in the tank falls below the height of this pipe, the engine sputters and sometimes stalls indicating that you need fuel. But, when you switch the petcock to "RES", another hole in the petcock, which does not have the standing pipe, will open up and allow you to use the remaining fuel in the tank. On a Sporty, this is usually somewhere around a gallon of fuel or about 40 miles or so.

One other thing that could be effecting this the level of the bike. If they has been lowered this could have altered the "level" of the bike. On a Sporty with it's small capacity tank and the shape of the tank, if the has been lower by as little as 1" in the rear, it will cause a problem such as this.

I notice that the bike is a 2010 model. If it's still under warranty, take it back to the dealer and let them figure it out. That's what a warranty is for. But, just in case, keep this things I've mentioned in mind.

Good Luck
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Jul 17, 2010 | 2005 Harley Davidson XL 1200 C Sportster...

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I would check the Fuel filter on the fuel pump inside the fuel tank, you will need to remove the tank so run the fuel low as it will need to be inverted to get at the pump. Be very careful with the tank seal, you will need to reuse it unless you purchased a new one. Refill the tank with good quality fuel and test

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It all seems to be leading to fuel starvation. Have you checked the tank breather is not blocked which can be a small hole in the petrol cap or a tube from under the tank. It could also be a blocked fuel filter. There should be two. One inside the fuel tank under the petcock, another before the fuel pump. Here is the workshop manual where you can find all info you will ever need for this bike.
Hop this has been useful, rate me if it has...?
Thanks and good luck.
http://www.carlsalter.com/download.asp?fileid=072111110100097095067066082095054048048070051095039057053045039057054095083101114118105099101095077097110117097108046114097114

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