An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 500 times.
Re: valve guide seals for early 750 twins
If you have guides allowing to fit them there should be no problem. There is only one type of 8mm guide seals for the whole 750s range.
I think the original guides of early models didn’t have the possibility to fit them as they didn’t have a smaller diameter in that area. At those times many motocycles didn’t have them at all and it worked quite well I personally wouldn’t change the guides just for that. Aftermarket guides are only of the type that allows to fit the seals. ,,,
a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Mechanic (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
If it is really unburned oil and not soot mixed with condensation, then it could be the exhaust valve guide oil seals (and probably intake as well) leaking. Inspect the spark plugs to see if they have an oily appearance, which will be from the intake seals, but a good guide.
Small Hyundai motors were susceptible to this fault.
depends on how the head was reconditioned were new valve guides installed along with new valves were the stem seals correctly fitted was a compression test done to determine the wear condition of the engine smoke on start up is oil in the combustion chamber from valve stem seals , worn rings , sump pressure from excessive blow by through the line to the air inlet check for oil leaks ( filter etc ) but using a lot of oil indicates ring problem, excessive bearing clearance overloading the oil control ring try using a heavier grade of oil 30w 50 or oil for worn motors
the dynamo dishwashing stuff has caused foaming which reached the base of the dishdrawer unit causing the flood switch to trip. This gives F1 error. Not sure how much foaming has occured.
Best to turn off power and take power cable out from socket. then empty the drawer using towels. pull out the bottom drawer and wait a day or so to let the foam disappear from the bottom of dishwasher (under the bottom drawer). Connect the power and see if F1 had gone. If not, you need more work. Post a comment based on the above suggestion and I will guide you further if required. Always use Finish dishwasher power only (recommended quantity) as the drawers are small and don't need much detergent.
Check the mating surface where the head meets the cylinder. Bad oil stains on the cooling fins in this area would suggest a bad head gasket. Do a compression check. Chances are the rings are bad or frozen to the piston from a long period of storage. In any event, the head would need to come off for a repair. So go ahead and stick in new valve guide seals and have the valves re-seated.
Oil in the cylinders mean worn rings or worn valve stem seals. You can try a blow down test to see if it is rings - get an old spark plug and bust out the ceramic weld in a fitting to press with air and air up the cyl. if you here air in the crankcase you have worn rings. You just have to replace the valve guide seals no test there.
This is a vary commom problem with an Intek engine, I have a similar 21HP engine with similar issue. The valve is sticking in the valve guide, the valve guide usually slides in or out. If out, the guide can jamb against the keepers and not allow full valve opening, thus bending the rod. Fix the loose guide and tight valve before you put in another rod, or you will soon be putting more rods in. I think B&S should help everyone on this one. If the guide goes in, it can cause the valve not to close fully and cause a no run condition.
Per previous post. A quart in 750 miles would be extremely high. A Porsche 930 Turbo Carrera driven hard doesn't use this much unless it's motor is toast, and it is practically a race car. You should expect at most a quart of oil consumption for 3000 miles. A quart of oil in 750 miles is a quart EVERY OTHER tank of fuel, and would indicate a motor that needed a rebuild long ago (or seals, guides or rings). BTW, If you can see smoke in the read view, it looks much worse when someone is driing behind you. STP or changing to the next higher weight of oil are short term solutions that may help you not leave a trail of smoke.
If you need valve seals, maybe that's it, but if you need guides, the rings are probably near shot too, unless there are extenuating circumstances.
That is usually a sign of worn valve stems/guides or seals.
When you take your foot off the accelerator going down hill you effectively close the throttle, the vacuum pressure created in the inlet manifold will open the throttle slightly and the vacuum will look for "inlet" from anywhere it can and one of these places is down the sides of worn valve stems/guides, it will **** a small amount of oil down the valve guide and the oil burning off when you put your foot back on the accelerator is the smoke you see out of the exhaust.