I have a chance to buy a Laverda 750S. 1969.
The bike is unrestored. All seems to be OK. Except that the saddle is not original.
1. I like to know where to get info about frame and engine numbers. I can't find it on the website.
2. Is the frame same as SF? (if I decide to built FCS look)
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Presuming that the supports you have are matched to the bike you have, you should find a couple of nuts on the back mudguard (Probably holding some chrome work in place if it is a cruiser). That are the same spacing as the holes in your saddle bag supports. The nuts, when removed should be long enough to go through the saddle bag supports and back into the mudguard frame. You MAY need to buy extended nuts to get the reach to go through the support, chrome work and frame. Order of things to go through: Nut through saddle bag support first, then original chrome then into screm socket in the mudguard. If it's NOT a cruiser and the above doesn't work, please come back and tell me the model of the bike.
G'day. An easy one. Yamahas made in 1980 were all G models. They made two versions of the XS-1100. A cruiser style & a standard type. To get absolutly model spacific for ordring your carby parts, best get your engine & frame numbers first. Use them when ordering parts to increase your chances of getting the right ones. Frame numbers on bikes (at least hear in Australia)are located on the steering neck(at the very front of the frame-written on a plate or stamped in). Sometimes they are to be found on the L/H or R/H lower frame rail. As for Engine numbers(road bikes)- They can be found on the engine case- usually R/H side near top of clutch cover.
I do hope that this was some how helpful Regards Andrew Porrelli
The most common complaints are the poor gas mileage, weak electric starter, not as fast off the line as the Japanese bikes, slower top end speed, top heavy and not a good commuter bike. Additionally, dealers are few and far between. Install new spark plugs, clean the air filter, clean or at least drain the carbs to remove any water in the float bowls. Do a compression check to see if the valves need to be re-seated.
how good is the battery check terminals are clean leads and all conections are good try remote battery and jump start it like a car if the problem goes away its your battery if not its the starter or solinoid or leads
Can anyone advise where I can obtain a download or purchase a CD for F4 750S (2000 model) stripdown re-assembly and maintenance?
The previous owner gave me a CD which contains:-
1. Owners manual.
2. Engine only stripdown and re-build (complete with poor photographs!)
3. Spare parts diagrams and part numbers.
The above certainly seems to be taken from official MV sources and appears not to be a scanned in copy of MV documentation i.e. it seems to have been produced as a .pdf for printing off.
I am really looking for detail like complete bike stripdown and re-assembly as well as basic maintenance such as chain tensioning brake pad and coolant replacement etc.do a search on the site for MV Agusta F4 750S Manual,,,
it had an incorrect seat on it and I would like to fit a bumstop style seat to the bike. It is different (slightly wider) than the later bikes. If anyody could help (even a loaner pan I could make a copy of)it would be appreciated. By the way I have some stuff from a crashed early 750GT that I have no use for and is available for trade or cheap. I don't have any bodyworkmainly forks. rear wheel airbox, that type stuff.,My memory of the 69 American Eagle is that it should have a locally made fibreglass tank, as that model was only a dressup bike done by Mr Mcormick of Continental Motorcycles. (he also badged up a British made moto crosser as an American Eagle, was it a Sprite or maybe and AJS Stormer) should be a slabby thing not unlike a cofin shape. Lance Weil of Ricky Racer had a couple a few years back and he is very near to you phone 1-800 Laverda, try him you never know.The seat should be the same width as the proper Laverda's (I think) It was only the 650 (42 in number) and the first 750 (the remaining batch up to 100) so another 58 that had the very first type chassis,quite a bit different in the way the tubes drop down to the swingarm pivot, or am I getting too much fuzz into the old grey matter, I could be wrong.,,,
and was wondering if other Zane riders have a view on what's good/not good?
I'm looking for something most suitable for fast winding road use rather than mainly track. I had Dunlop 207's on mine and recently switched to Pirelli Dragon Supercorsa SC 2's. The the SC's are amazing,,