After the winter break my jota wont start.
I'm not to good with electrics and this is what I.ve done so far.
Engaged a high gear and turned over the motor by turning back wheel (incase starter was jammed)
removed and cleaned Earth wire (copper thingy)
cleaned all other bits attached to the battery
checked where I can for loose wires
what I have is a strong Battrery
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Re: non starting Jota
32 amp brand new its been on charge for about 18 hours
Acid for battery was put in by a dealer
all electric functions working except the starter
when the starter button is pushed there is a click and I can feel movment in a solonoid in front and just above the battery (in an ally case)
all nuts to starter motor removed cleaned and re tightened
Fuses checked (I can only find 2) these fuses are located behind the left side of the battery in a little black cover are perhaps there more fuses which are relavent to the starter
the bike is in my workshop and I cant really get a go at jumping it on my own.
I did try jumping when I thought it was the battery but it wouldnt go.
I thought it was due to NO charge in the battery. Try a single jump lead from the +'ve on the battery direct to the starter motor. A screwdriver across to 2 solonoid connections does the same thing but is harder to control. You need to be careful as if there is an internal short in the starter motor you can run the risk of serious burns from very large fault currents flowing. Next is the poxy short battery negative to crank case...replace with a longer one to the actual starter motor 8m/m mounting bolt ( closest 8m/m to the barrel is more neat ).
Less hazerdous is to get a cheap mumtimeter and measure the voltage across the starter motor when you press the starter button some times it is just a dirty segment on the starter motor remove plugs from cylinders, load the HT leads with removed plugs, rest against engine and engage top gear.
Press the starter and rotate back wheel slightly backwards ( rocking motion ) going backwards engages the jaming roller clutch to move the starter off the dirty segment if present,,,
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Jo - you need to explain what problems you are having!! The 1980 model had a cable operated mechanism. Vital that the clutch cable is smoothly routed with bends as big a radius as possible. Lubrication of clutch lever pivot and cable is vital too. Handlebar adjuster should be used to leave a small amount of slack. If the problem is getting the clutch to free off, then if the bike has been standing for a long time the plates can stick together. Have an answer for that...
Usually, the contacts in the solenoid of the starter ensure that the starter gear is fully engaged before it starts the starter motor. But, if the contacts are not positioned correctly, the starter motor will start up before the gear on the jackshaft is fully engaged.
Remove the end of the solenoid. That's the five sided plate held on with three small bolts. You'll see two large copper contacts after you pull the plunger and spring out. Make sure these contacts are straight and as far back as they will go. Make sure they aren't twisted due to tightening of the bolts that hold them into the solenoid and that they are not bent outward at the bottom. You want the plunger to be as far into the solenoid as possible before it makes contact with these two contacts. Check the large copper washer on the plunger as well.
I'm assuming the gear you are talking about is the starter gear on the Jackshaft.
If your bike is kicking back on the starter, it's because of a problem in either the ignition or something. What causes this is the engine fires on "the first upstroke" before the flywheels get to moving good. Some aftermarket ignitions such as the Crane HI-4 has a setting for either electric start or kick start. When the electric start position is selected, this delays the spark plugs from firing until the engine rotates over three times. Once those flywheels are rotating like that, the engine will not kick back. But, the stock ignition unit is not set up to do this and in most bikes, it's not a problem. My '94 Wide Glide has only done it once in the ten years that I've owned it and then it do any damage.
So, one question, are you running high octane fuel? If not, your engine could be detonating, or pre-igniting the fuel. If you're running high test fuel, it could be that the ignition timing is set too high. The timing will not change and will remain at the factory setting until someone changes it. But, sometimes those factory guys have bad nights before and one may have gotten your timing set wrong. Also, check for damage to the ring gear. If the ring gear is damaged, this could be damaging the smaller jackshaft gear. The ring gear is replacable as well.
Trying to remember, but all I had were twins. The triples were harder to come by. What's the guy's name? Wolfgang! He's the North American guy for older Laverda parts. He goes to the factory in Italy at least once a year. He lives in British Columbia, Canada. If you can't find him, check back with me. I will find his info. Good luck. TT
they light up bright but no flash. Checked the earths the battery voltage is 12.5V engine off checked the flasher unit which works on my old landrover. What could be the reason?ry cleaning the contacts on the bulbs - often they will not flash if one is burnt out or not making proper contact. You can also try and clean all the earthing points.,,,
with BTZ ignitioni am having increasing problems with it only running on oneor two cylinders until it warms up and all three kick in.Its usually the right side pot that has problems and sometimes the leftbut never the middle.
With the plugs out ,the left side and centre plugs are a nice golden brown but the right plug is running rich(black/sooty),when i clean it and replace it the bike fires up like a good 'un..However ,when left overnight and started in the morning(especially if its cold)it usually only fires on the 2 left pots.
Even though i'm having a few probs, this bike (when firing on all 3) is absolutely Awesome.I've never had a bike like it. , I would recomend to start at the carbs. If you have a friend with an ultrasonic cleaning-bath, buy yourself 3 gasket-kits for the carbs, totally unmount them (maybe one after the other to avoid you end up not knowing how to put them together again...), clean them, exchange all O-rings and gaskets, make sure all jets are free and - VERY important - check the float-hights and synchronize both the carbs and the choke-sliders.
With little tuning on the mixture screw, it should be very reliable on starting after that.,,,
is anyone able to confirm this as it looks a little fragile. You sometimes find 2 single chains on Laverda twins and triples.
I never heard that Laverda used them instead of the triple chain to cope with
The version I've heard is that the triple chain has not been available for
some years. Therefore the 2 single chains were used.
Though I never heard of the 2 single chains crashing i personally prefer
the triple version. ,,