Question about 1982 Laverda 1000 Jota

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Jota primary chain

I removed the primary cover and I noticed triple chain rings (sprockets) but it was running two single chains. He assures me that this was a normal mod to prevent clutch issues they used to have with a triplex chain

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Is anyone able to confirm this as it looks a little fragile. You sometimes find 2 single chains on Laverda twins and triples. I never heard that Laverda used them instead of the triple chain to cope with any problems. The version I've heard is that the triple chain has not been available for some years. Therefore the 2 single chains were used. Though I never heard of the 2 single chains crashing i personally prefer the triple version. ,,

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

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2 Answers

Adjust primary chain on 2000 fatboy


hi,

Sooner or later, every bike will need a new chain and sprockets. Once a chain begins to wear, its pitch changes and wears the sprocket teeth. Then the chain begins to wear even faster. Then it's time for a new chain, and a new pair of sprockets.
The rear wheel on my motorcycle had been misaligned (I had used the inaccurate etched indicators on the swingarm-rather than a ruler against the sprocket-to set wheel alignment) and ridden hard through a gritty, salty winter. The rear sprocket was in rough shape, and the chain was making lots of popping sounds as the bike went down the road.
Changing a chain is a fairly basic job that requires a chain breaker / riveting tool and whatever is needed to remove the rear wheel and sprockets. It's nice to have a blow torch and a torque wrench on hand for this job, too.
The ingenious Terra-X chain tool is made in Australia out of tool steel, and weighs just 150 grams. A big hollow bolt threads into the bigger of the two holes, and is used when pressing outer plates onto new master links. A smaller bolt with a pin can thread into the hollow bolt, and is used to push link pins out of old chains or to peen new master link pins by pushing them against a grub screw threaded into the steel body's other hole. That little grub screw with a rounded steel end screws into the smaller hole of the chain breaker. It fits into and peens the hole of the new master link.
When changing a chain, the first step is to loosen the bolts on the front sprocket. It's good to get those loose while the chain is still on the bike, partly to avoid putting undue stress on the transmission, and partly to avoid getting deep into the job and finding that the front sprocket bolts are stuck. In this case, the small allen bolts needed a bit of heat to come undone.
After the bolts are loose, it's time to break the chain. With the Terra-X chain tool, you remove the small grub screw and use the small bolt with the pin to push out one of the chain's pins. No grunting or swearing required.
Then comes sprocket replacement. Six nuts on the rear sprocket, the two bolts on the front sprocket, and that step is done. I had a torque wrench handy, so I could get the torque values just right when putting everything back together.
The next step is the big one: installing the master link that joins the ends of the new chain together. The master link comes with a little bag with some X-Rings, a master link, and some sticky tan lube. Smear the lube on the pins and inside the X-Rings, then begin to assemble the master link around the two ends of the chain, making sure to get the X-Rings in the right spots.
Pressing the outer plate onto the master link is the hardest part of the job. I removed the pin bolt from the Terra-X tool and used the hollow bolt to push the outer plate onto the master link's pins. It took a few tries, but eventually I got it in the correct position.
After the sprockets are on and the master link is in position, the master link's pins need to be peened. With the Terra-X, the pin bolt pushes the master link pin against the grub screw's steel ball, and flares the pin. It takes a lot of effort-mostly because it's not easy to get a lot of leverage on tools when they're underneath a motorcycle.
Position the wheel for proper chain tension, torque everything to the correct specs, and you're back on the road. The new chain is smooth, nearly silent, and ready for thousands of miles of high-speed running.


adjust-primary-chain-2000-fatboy-l3pkhus41ndyrzcpoepz5ks5-3-0.jpg

adjust-primary-chain-2000-fatboy-l3pkhus41ndyrzcpoepz5ks5-3-2.jpg

adjust-primary-chain-2000-fatboy-l3pkhus41ndyrzcpoepz5ks5-3-5.jpg

Oct 07, 2014 | 2003 Harley Davidson FLSTFI Fat Boy

1 Answer

How to replace drive belt on a 1993 harley davidson heritage softail classic?


To remove a Softail drive belt FIRST remove the rear wheel then remove the primary chain, the clutch, the engine compensating sprocket, and the chain adjuster as an assembly, then remove the primary chaincase housing, place a support under the rear fork and engine, remove the pivot shaft and spacer, slip the drive belt off from the transmission sprocket.



To replace a Softail drive belt FIRST not that all belts, used or new, must never be formed into a loop smaller than 5.0 in. (130 mm), and must never be bent backwards because this can severely weaken the belt and cause premature failure if it, then install the belt over the transmission sprocket, install the pivot shaft and spacer, remove the support holding the engine and rear fork, install the primary chaincase housing, the primary chain, the clutch, the engine compensating sprocket, and the chain adjuster and the primary chaincase cover, fill primary the primary chaincase with oil, install the rear wheel, align the rear wheel and properly adjust the belt tension to the specified deflection.

Apr 28, 2014 | 2000 Harley Davidson FLSTC Heritage...

1 Answer

How to replace drive belt on 1993 harley davidson?


Is it a softail????



To remove a Softail drive belt FIRST remove the rear wheel then remove the primary chain, the clutch, the engine compensating sprocket, and the chain adjuster as an assembly, then remove the primary chaincase housing, place a support under the rear fork and engine, remove the pivot shaft and spacer, slip the drive belt off from the transmission sprocket.



To replace a Softail drive belt FIRST not that all belts, used or new, must never be formed into a loop smaller than 5.0 in. (130 mm), and must never be bent backwards because this can severely weaken the belt and cause premature failure if it, then install the belt over the transmission sprocket, install the pivot shaft and spacer, remove the support holding the engine and rear fork, install the primary chaincase housing, the primary chain, the clutch, the engine compensating sprocket, and the chain adjuster and the primary chaincase cover, fill primary the primary chaincase with oil, install the rear wheel, align the rear wheel and properly adjust the belt tension to the specified deflection.

Apr 28, 2014 | 2005 Harley Davidson FLSTC - FLSTCI...

2 Answers

Do you have any idea how to check the chain adjustment on a 2002 Dyna Low


hi,

Sooner or later, every bike will need a new chain and sprockets. Once a chain begins to wear, its pitch changes and wears the sprocket teeth. Then the chain begins to wear even faster. Then it's time for a new chain, and a new pair of sprockets.
The rear wheel on my motorcycle had been misaligned (I had used the inaccurate etched indicators on the swingarm-rather than a ruler against the sprocket-to set wheel alignment) and ridden hard through a gritty, salty winter. The rear sprocket was in rough shape, and the chain was making lots of popping sounds as the bike went down the road.
Changing a chain is a fairly basic job that requires a chain breaker / riveting tool and whatever is needed to remove the rear wheel and sprockets. It's nice to have a blow torch and a torque wrench on hand for this job, too.
The ingenious Terra-X chain tool is made in Australia out of tool steel, and weighs just 150 grams. A big hollow bolt threads into the bigger of the two holes, and is used when pressing outer plates onto new master links. A smaller bolt with a pin can thread into the hollow bolt, and is used to push link pins out of old chains or to peen new master link pins by pushing them against a grub screw threaded into the steel body's other hole. That little grub screw with a rounded steel end screws into the smaller hole of the chain breaker. It fits into and peens the hole of the new master link.
When changing a chain, the first step is to loosen the bolts on the front sprocket. It's good to get those loose while the chain is still on the bike, partly to avoid putting undue stress on the transmission, and partly to avoid getting deep into the job and finding that the front sprocket bolts are stuck. In this case, the small allen bolts needed a bit of heat to come undone.
After the bolts are loose, it's time to break the chain. With the Terra-X chain tool, you remove the small grub screw and use the small bolt with the pin to push out one of the chain's pins. No grunting or swearing required.
Then comes sprocket replacement. Six nuts on the rear sprocket, the two bolts on the front sprocket, and that step is done. I had a torque wrench handy, so I could get the torque values just right when putting everything back together.
The next step is the big one: installing the master link that joins the ends of the new chain together. The master link comes with a little bag with some X-Rings, a master link, and some sticky tan lube. Smear the lube on the pins and inside the X-Rings, then begin to assemble the master link around the two ends of the chain, making sure to get the X-Rings in the right spots.
Pressing the outer plate onto the master link is the hardest part of the job. I removed the pin bolt from the Terra-X tool and used the hollow bolt to push the outer plate onto the master link's pins. It took a few tries, but eventually I got it in the correct position.
After the sprockets are on and the master link is in position, the master link's pins need to be peened. With the Terra-X, the pin bolt pushes the master link pin against the grub screw's steel ball, and flares the pin. It takes a lot of effort-mostly because it's not easy to get a lot of leverage on tools when they're underneath a motorcycle.
Position the wheel for proper chain tension, torque everything to the correct specs, and you're back on the road. The new chain is smooth, nearly silent, and ready for thousands of miles of high-speed running.

any-idea-l3pkhus41ndyrzcpoepz5ks5-5-0.jpg

any-idea-l3pkhus41ndyrzcpoepz5ks5-5-2.jpg

any-idea-l3pkhus41ndyrzcpoepz5ks5-5-4.jpg

any-idea-l3pkhus41ndyrzcpoepz5ks5-5-7.jpg

May 14, 2011 | 2000 Harley Davidson FXDWG Dyna Wide Glide

1 Answer

Removal motorsprocket


I'm going to assume that you are talking about how to remove the engine sprocket from the sprocket shaft in the primary cover.

First, disconnect the battery and drain the primary. Look underneath the primary and loosen the locknut for the primary chain adjuster and loosen the primary chain by turning the screw outwards a few turns.

Then take the derby cover off the primary and remove the spring and locknut for the clutch adjustment. Remove the screws from around the primary and break it loose from the engine. Turn the clutch adjustment screw clockwise while removing the primary cover. Lay the primary cover aside.

Now, there is a plate in the center of the clutch assembly held in with a circlip. Remove the circlip. Now you'll need either an air wrench or a locking bar to lock the primary to prevent it from turning so you can get the clutch hub nut and the engine sprocket nut off. The engine nut has right hand threads and comes off normally. The clutch hub nut has LEFT HANDED THREADS and you must turn it in reverse. Once you get the two nuts off, you can usually grab the engine sprocket and the clutch assembly and lift those two units and the chain off at once. Sometimes you may need a puller to get the engine sprocket off but usually it just comes right off.

Installation is the reverse with the engine nut being torques to 150 foot pounds and the clutch hub nut torqued to 60 foot pounds left handed.

Good Luck
Steve

Mar 03, 2011 | 2000 Harley Davidson XL Sportster 883

1 Answer

Removal of inner primary cover


For the cover you may have to loosen your shifter linkage to be able to remove it from the bike depending on what model you have
As for the inner primary you'll have to take off the clutch the front & rear primary sprockets and chain. You can loosen the bolts to both sprockets,then loosen the chain tensioner.
Slide the front & rear sprocket & chain off with the clutch still attached. leave them together and set it aside as one big unit.
The inner primary has bolts with bent washer tabs. Bend the tabs flat so you can remove the bolts.
Thre is a lock ring around the transmission shaft that holds the inner primary on too. Remove that with lock-ring plier.
Depending on your model, you may have to remove the rotor/flywheel first before the inner primary comes off.
Don't for get to put a new engine o-ring back on the front hole of the inner primary when re-installing.

Dec 03, 2010 | Harley Davidson FXST Softail Standard...

1 Answer

Removal and installation of 1988 harley sportster clutch


In order to remove the clutch from your bike, you must have a special tool. You'll need H-D #34761 in order to remove the snap ring holding the clutch together.

Disconnect the battery, drain the primary, and remove the primary cover. Once you have the primary cover off, you can remove the nut from the compensator sprocket at the engine end of the primary chain.

Install the H-D 34761 or equivalent tool and compress the clutch spring. Remove the snap ring and then back off on the tool to release the pressure on the clutch spring. Once the pressure has been removed, remove the adjusting screw assembly, the outer clutch spring seats, the clutch spring, the inner clutch spring seat, and the pressure plate.

Then you can disassemble the rest of the clutch. Remove the remove the four friction plates and three drive plates. Then you can remove the spring plate and the remaining plates after that. Remove the snap ring that holds the clutch assembly onto the transmission clutch gear and remove the inner and outer clutch shells, the primary chain, and the engine sprocket as a group.

For this job, I would recommend that you purchase a service manual. It's has pictures that show you what you're dealing with and in this case, a picture is truly worth a thousand words.

Good Luck
Steve

Nov 05, 2010 | Harley Davidson XL Sportster 883...

1 Answer

I HAVE A HARLEY SPORSTER 1200, WILL NOT SHIFT OUT OG GEAR, STAYS IN HIGH GEAR....HELP PLEASE..............


Sounds like the shifter pawl is broken. This is common in Sportsters. You'll have to pull your primary drive to repair it.

Disconnect your battery, drain the primary, loosen the primary chain adjuster and remove the outer primary cover. Take the engine sprocket nut loose. Remove the snap ring in the clutch assemble and remove the throwout bearing. Remove the mainshaft nut that holds the clutch assembly on. This nut has LEFT HANDED threads. Lift the engine sprocket, primary chain, and the clutch assembly out of the primary case.

Now, you can get to the shifting mechanism and determine what the problem is.

Good luck
Steve

Aug 31, 2010 | Harley Davidson XL 1200 L Sporster Low...

1 Answer

How do I pull the front Sprocket inside the primary cover to change the stator


The compensator has a large nut on it and it's very tight. But, I get them off with an air impact wrench. You also have to remove the clutch assembly and primary chain. To remove the cluch assy, remove the clutch rod adjuster plate in the center of the clutch assembly by removing the snap ring. Inside the clutch is the mainshaft shaft nut. It has LEFT HANDED THREADS ON IT. Take it off and the remove the nut that holds the primary chain adjuster off and lift the front sprocket, the clutch, and the chain off all together.

The rotor should come right off but you'll have to put two bolts in the holes on the rotor and squeeze them together to get a grip on the rotor to pull it off. The magnitism force is quite strong.

When replacing the clutch and compensator, the mainshaft nut torques to 60-80 foot pounds of torque LEFT-HANDED. The sprocket shaft nut torques to 150-165 foot pounds. You'll need something to lock the primary chain while you torque the nuts or the engine will turn before you get them torqued.

Good Luck
Steve

Aug 06, 2010 | Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide...

1 Answer

Need 2 replace clutch on my 2001 softail duece


Remove the outer primary cover on left side. Don't forget to drain the oil first. Using a large pair of snap ring pliers, remove the clutch adjuster plate from center of clutch assembly. Remove compensator sprocket nut (very tight) and the clutch hub nut (left handed threads) and remove nut from bolt on primary chain adjuster. Grab the compensator sprocket and clutch assembly and lift out of inner primary.

Jun 30, 2009 | 2000 Harley Davidson FXSTD Softail Duece

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