Question about 1982 Laverda 1000 Jota

1 Answer

Jota primary chain

I removed the primary cover and I noticed triple chain rings (sprockets) but it was running two single chains. He assures me that this was a normal mod to prevent clutch issues they used to have with a triplex chain

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  • 2,336 Answers

Is anyone able to confirm this as it looks a little fragile. You sometimes find 2 single chains on Laverda twins and triples. I never heard that Laverda used them instead of the triple chain to cope with any problems. The version I've heard is that the triple chain has not been available for some years. Therefore the 2 single chains were used. Though I never heard of the 2 single chains crashing i personally prefer the triple version. ,,

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

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2 Answers

Adjust primary chain on 2000 fatboy


hi,

Sooner or later, every bike will need a new chain and sprockets. Once a chain begins to wear, its pitch changes and wears the sprocket teeth. Then the chain begins to wear even faster. Then it's time for a new chain, and a new pair of sprockets.
The rear wheel on my motorcycle had been misaligned (I had used the inaccurate etched indicators on the swingarm-rather than a ruler against the sprocket-to set wheel alignment) and ridden hard through a gritty, salty winter. The rear sprocket was in rough shape, and the chain was making lots of popping sounds as the bike went down the road.
Changing a chain is a fairly basic job that requires a chain breaker / riveting tool and whatever is needed to remove the rear wheel and sprockets. It's nice to have a blow torch and a torque wrench on hand for this job, too.
The ingenious Terra-X chain tool is made in Australia out of tool steel, and weighs just 150 grams. A big hollow bolt threads into the bigger of the two holes, and is used when pressing outer plates onto new master links. A smaller bolt with a pin can thread into the hollow bolt, and is used to push link pins out of old chains or to peen new master link pins by pushing them against a grub screw threaded into the steel body's other hole. That little grub screw with a rounded steel end screws into the smaller hole of the chain breaker. It fits into and peens the hole of the new master link.
When changing a chain, the first step is to loosen the bolts on the front sprocket. It's good to get those loose while the chain is still on the bike, partly to avoid putting undue stress on the transmission, and partly to avoid getting deep into the job and finding that the front sprocket bolts are stuck. In this case, the small allen bolts needed a bit of heat to come undone.
After the bolts are loose, it's time to break the chain. With the Terra-X chain tool, you remove the small grub screw and use the small bolt with the pin to push out one of the chain's pins. No grunting or swearing required.
Then comes sprocket replacement. Six nuts on the rear sprocket, the two bolts on the front sprocket, and that step is done. I had a torque wrench handy, so I could get the torque values just right when putting everything back together.
The next step is the big one: installing the master link that joins the ends of the new chain together. The master link comes with a little bag with some X-Rings, a master link, and some sticky tan lube. Smear the lube on the pins and inside the X-Rings, then begin to assemble the master link around the two ends of the chain, making sure to get the X-Rings in the right spots.
Pressing the outer plate onto the master link is the hardest part of the job. I removed the pin bolt from the Terra-X tool and used the hollow bolt to push the outer plate onto the master link's pins. It took a few tries, but eventually I got it in the correct position.
After the sprockets are on and the master link is in position, the master link's pins need to be peened. With the Terra-X, the pin bolt pushes the master link pin against the grub screw's steel ball, and flares the pin. It takes a lot of effort-mostly because it's not easy to get a lot of leverage on tools when they're underneath a motorcycle.
Position the wheel for proper chain tension, torque everything to the correct specs, and you're back on the road. The new chain is smooth, nearly silent, and ready for thousands of miles of high-speed running.


adjust-primary-chain-2000-fatboy-l3pkhus41ndyrzcpoepz5ks5-3-0.jpg

adjust-primary-chain-2000-fatboy-l3pkhus41ndyrzcpoepz5ks5-3-2.jpg

adjust-primary-chain-2000-fatboy-l3pkhus41ndyrzcpoepz5ks5-3-5.jpg

Oct 07, 2014 | 2003 Harley Davidson FLSTFI Fat Boy

1 Answer

I am changing the timing chain in a 1993 Chevy S-10 with a 4.3L engine. I was told you have to disconnect a wire to reset it but I don't know where the wire is.


Timing Chain: Service and Repair
REMOVAL
Tools Required = Crankshaft Sprocket Puller
1. Remove the timing cover.
2. Remove the crankshaft position sensor reluctor ring.
3. Remove the camshaft sprocket bolts.
4. Remove camshaft sprocket.
5. Remove timing chain.
6. Remove the crankshaft sprocket.
7. Remove crankshaft sprocket key.

INSTALLATION
1. Install the key into the crankshaft keyway.
2. Use the crankshaft balancer installer to install the crankshaft sprocket.
3. Install the camshaft sprocket and timing chain.
4. Install camshaft sprocket bolts.
Be sure to align the camshaft and the crankshaft sprocket marks. Timing marks (Number 4 Firing).
Tighten bolts to 21 ft. lbs.
5. Align the keyway on the reluctor ring with the key in the crankshaft.
6. Install the reluctor ring onto the crankshaft until the ring is completely seated against the crankshaft sprocket.
7. Install the timing cover.

Don't know what Wire you are referring to.

Jul 30, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do i reset the timing on 2001 2.7l concorde if the chain was replaced and the timing is off


Did you take pictures while removing the originals? It's always a good habit. Below are the instructions you need to follow. Your own pics are very helpful when doing a big job like this.
  1. Disconnect negative battery (1) cable.
  2. Drain cooling system.
  3. Remove upper intake manifold.
  4. Remove cylinder head covers, crankshaft vibration damper, and timing chain cover.
CAUTION: When aligning timing marks, always rotate engine by turning the crankshaft. Failure to do so will result in valve and/or piston damage.
117014297

  1. Align crankshaft sprocket timing mark to mark on oil pump housing (2). The mark on oil pump housing is 600 ATDC of #1 cylinder.
CAUTION: When the timing chain is removed and the cylinder heads are still installed, DO NOT rotate the camshafts or crankshaft without first locating the proper crankshaft position. Failure to do so will result in valve and/or piston damage.
117016938

  1. Remove primary timing chain tensioner retainer cap (2) and tensioner (1) from right cylinder head.
117016939

  1. Disconnect and remove camshaft position sensor (4) from left cylinder head.
  2. Remove timing chain guide access plugs (3) from cylinder heads.
NOTE: When camshaft sprocket bolts are removed, the camshafts will rotate in a clockwise direction.
  1. Starting with the right camshaft sprocket, remove the sprocket attaching bolts. Remove camshaft damper (1) (if equipped) and sprocket.
  2. Remove left side camshaft sprocket attaching bolts and remove sprocket.
  3. Remove lower chain guide (7) and tensioner arm (8).
  4. Remove the primary timing chain (5).
  5. Remove crankshaft sprocket (6).
INSTALLATION
117016940

  1. Inspect all sprockets (4,9,11) and chain guides (2,5,10). Replace if worn.
  2. For crankshaft sprocket installation procedures Refer to CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET.
  3. If removed, install right and left side short chain guides (11). Tighten attaching bolts to 28 Nm (250 inch lbs.) .
  4. Align crankshaft sprocket timing mark to the mark on oil pump housing (3).
NOTE: Lubricate timing chain and guides with engine oil before installation.
  1. Place left side primary chain sprocket onto the chain so that the timing mark is located in-between the two (plated) timing links (1).
117016941

  1. Lower the primary chain with left side sprocket through the left cylinder head opening.
NOTE: The camshaft sprockets can be allowed to float on the camshaft hub during installation.
  1. Loosely position left side camshaft sprocket over camshaft hub.
  2. Align timing (plated) link to the crankshaft sprocket timing mark (3).
  3. Position primary chain onto water pump drive sprocket (10).
  4. Align right camshaft sprocket timing mark to the timing (plated) link on the timing chain (8) and loosely position over camshaft hub.
  5. Verify that all chain timing (plated) links are properly aligned to the timing marks on all sprockets.
  6. Install left side lower chain guide (2) and tensioner arm (5). Tighten attaching bolts to 28 Nm (250 inch lbs.) .
NOTE: Inspect O-ring on chain guide access plugs before installing. Replace O-ring as necessary.
  1. Install chain guide access plugs to cylinder heads. Tighten plugs to 20 Nm (15 ft. lbs.) .
NOTE: To reset the primary timing chain tensioner, engine oil will first need to be purged from the tensioner.
117016942

  1. Purge oil from timing chain tensioner using the following procedure:
    1. Place the check ball (2) end of tensioner into the shallow end of Special Tool 8186 (3).
    2. Using hand pressure, slowly depress tensioner until oil is purged from tensioner.
117016943

  1. Reset timing chain tensioner using the following procedure:
    1. Position cylinder plunger (4) into the deeper end of Special Tool 8186 (3).
    2. Apply a downward force until tensioner is reset.
NOTE: If oil was not first purged from the tensioner, use slight finger pressure to assist the center arm pin of Special Tool 8186 to unseat the tensioner's check ball.

CAUTION: Ensure the tensioner is properly reset. The tensioner body (4) must bottom against the top edge of Special Tool 8186 (3). Failure to properly perform the resetting procedure may cause tensioner jamming.

NOTE: Inspect the tensioner O-ring (2) for nicks or cuts and make sure the snap ring (1) is correctly installed, replace as necessary.
117016944

  1. Install the reset chain tensioner (1) into the right cylinder head.
  2. Position tensioner retaining plate (2) and tighten bolts (1) to 12 Nm (105 inch lbs.) .
117016945

  1. Starting at the right cylinder bank, first position the camshaft damper (1) (if equipped) on camshaft hub, then insert a 3/8 square drive extension with a breaker bar into intake camshaft drive hub. Rotate camshaft until the camshaft hub aligns to the camshaft sprocket and damper attaching holes. Install the sprocket attaching bolts and tighten to 28 Nm (250 inch lbs.) .
  2. Turn the left side camshaft by inserting a 3/8 square drive extension with a breaker bar into intake camshaft drive hub and rotate camshaft until the sprocket attaching bolts can be installed. Tighten sprocket bolts to 28 Nm (250 inch lbs.).
  3. Rotate engine slightly clockwise to remove timing chain slack, if necessary.
117016946

  1. Activate the timing chain tensioner by using a flat bladed pry tool to gently pry tensioner arm towards the tensioner slightly. Then release the tensioner arm. Verify the tensioner is activated (extends).
117016947

  1. Install camshaft position sensor (2) and connect electrical connector.
  2. Install the timing chain cover, crankshaft vibration damper, and cylinder head covers.
  3. Install upper intake manifold.
NOTE: After installation of a reset tensioner, engine noise will occur after initial start-up. This noise will normally disappear within 5-10 seconds.
  1. Fill cooling system.

Mar 27, 2013 | 2001 Chrysler Concorde

2 Answers

Do you have any idea how to check the chain adjustment on a 2002 Dyna Low


hi,

Sooner or later, every bike will need a new chain and sprockets. Once a chain begins to wear, its pitch changes and wears the sprocket teeth. Then the chain begins to wear even faster. Then it's time for a new chain, and a new pair of sprockets.
The rear wheel on my motorcycle had been misaligned (I had used the inaccurate etched indicators on the swingarm-rather than a ruler against the sprocket-to set wheel alignment) and ridden hard through a gritty, salty winter. The rear sprocket was in rough shape, and the chain was making lots of popping sounds as the bike went down the road.
Changing a chain is a fairly basic job that requires a chain breaker / riveting tool and whatever is needed to remove the rear wheel and sprockets. It's nice to have a blow torch and a torque wrench on hand for this job, too.
The ingenious Terra-X chain tool is made in Australia out of tool steel, and weighs just 150 grams. A big hollow bolt threads into the bigger of the two holes, and is used when pressing outer plates onto new master links. A smaller bolt with a pin can thread into the hollow bolt, and is used to push link pins out of old chains or to peen new master link pins by pushing them against a grub screw threaded into the steel body's other hole. That little grub screw with a rounded steel end screws into the smaller hole of the chain breaker. It fits into and peens the hole of the new master link.
When changing a chain, the first step is to loosen the bolts on the front sprocket. It's good to get those loose while the chain is still on the bike, partly to avoid putting undue stress on the transmission, and partly to avoid getting deep into the job and finding that the front sprocket bolts are stuck. In this case, the small allen bolts needed a bit of heat to come undone.
After the bolts are loose, it's time to break the chain. With the Terra-X chain tool, you remove the small grub screw and use the small bolt with the pin to push out one of the chain's pins. No grunting or swearing required.
Then comes sprocket replacement. Six nuts on the rear sprocket, the two bolts on the front sprocket, and that step is done. I had a torque wrench handy, so I could get the torque values just right when putting everything back together.
The next step is the big one: installing the master link that joins the ends of the new chain together. The master link comes with a little bag with some X-Rings, a master link, and some sticky tan lube. Smear the lube on the pins and inside the X-Rings, then begin to assemble the master link around the two ends of the chain, making sure to get the X-Rings in the right spots.
Pressing the outer plate onto the master link is the hardest part of the job. I removed the pin bolt from the Terra-X tool and used the hollow bolt to push the outer plate onto the master link's pins. It took a few tries, but eventually I got it in the correct position.
After the sprockets are on and the master link is in position, the master link's pins need to be peened. With the Terra-X, the pin bolt pushes the master link pin against the grub screw's steel ball, and flares the pin. It takes a lot of effort-mostly because it's not easy to get a lot of leverage on tools when they're underneath a motorcycle.
Position the wheel for proper chain tension, torque everything to the correct specs, and you're back on the road. The new chain is smooth, nearly silent, and ready for thousands of miles of high-speed running.

any-idea-l3pkhus41ndyrzcpoepz5ks5-5-0.jpg

any-idea-l3pkhus41ndyrzcpoepz5ks5-5-2.jpg

any-idea-l3pkhus41ndyrzcpoepz5ks5-5-4.jpg

any-idea-l3pkhus41ndyrzcpoepz5ks5-5-7.jpg

May 14, 2011 | 2000 Harley Davidson FXDWG Dyna Wide Glide

1 Answer

Aligning the valve timing mareks except twincam engine


Timing Chain, Sprockets, Front Cover and Seal REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Crankshaft Damper and Front Oil Seal
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Negative battery cable
    • Accessory drive belt
    • Cooling fans
    • Crankshaft pulley and damper, using a holding fixture as shown
    • Front crankshaft seal Fig. 1: Crankshaft pulley removal tool - V8 9301jg12.gif
    To install:
  3. Install oil seal replacer tool JD-235 to the oil seal. Use the nut and bolt provided with the tool to fully seat the seal to the timing cover.
  4. For dampers which DO NOT utilize a spit locking ring:
    1. Apply a thin, even coating of Loctite® 648 to the damper bore. Do not apply it to the end faces or to the crankshaft.
    2. Install the crankshaft damper onto the crankshaft. Wipe off any Loctite that has squeezed out from the front of the damper.
    3. Install the locking tool to the damper. Tighten the bolt to 59 ft. lbs. (80 Nm), plus an 80 degree turn.
  5. For dampers which utilize a spit locking ring:
    1. Install a new O-ring seal to the damper.
    2. Install the crankshaft damper.
    3. Apply petroleum jelly to the damper bore and O-ring seal.
    4. Install the damper onto the crankshaft.
    5. Install the split locking ring onto the crankshaft, inside the center bore of the damper.
    6. Install the locking tool to the damper.
    7. Tighten the damper bolt to 266-285 ft. lbs. (364-386 Nm).
    8. Remove the locking tool from the damper.
  6. Install or connect the following:
    • Cooling fans
    • Accessory drive belt
    • Negative battery cable
  7. Start the engine and check for leaks.
Timing Cover
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
  2. Drain the cooling system.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Negative battery cable
    • Upper radiator hose
    • Accessory drive belt
    • Water pump pulley
    • Accessory drive belt tensioner
    • Idler pulley
    • Crankshaft damper
    • Engine appearance covers
    • Mass Air Flow (MAF) meter
    • Air intake assembly
    • Ignition coils
    • Canister purge valve
    • Valve covers
    • Variable Valve Timing (VVT) solenoids
    • Engine harness retaining clips
    • Timing cover
    To install: Fig. 2: Sealant application points - V8 9301jg23.gif
    Fig. 3: Timing cover torque sequence-V8 9307jg01.gif

  4. Apply sealant to the 8 joints on the engine face as shown.
  5. Install or connect the following:
    • Timing cover with new seals. Tighten the bolts in sequence to 96-120 inch lbs. (11-13 Nm).
    • Engine harness retaining clips
    • VVT solenoids
    • Valve covers
    • Canister purge valve
    • Ignition coils
    • Air intake assembly
    • MAF meter
    • Engine appearance covers
    • Crankshaft damper
    • Idler pulley
    • Accessory drive belt tensioner
    • Water pump pulley
    • Accessory drive belt
    • Upper radiator hose
    • Negative battery cable
  6. Fill the cooling system.
  7. Start the engine and check for leaks.
Timing Chain 6 CYLINDER
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Negative battery cable
    • Accessory drive belt
    • Valve cover
    • Timing chain cover
    • Variable Valve Timing (VVT) sensor
    • Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor
  3. Rotate the crankshaft until the triangular arrow indent on the driveplate is visible through the access hole.
  4. Install the Crankshaft Setting Peg JD 216 into the CKP sensor location.
  5. Install the Camshaft Locking tool JD 215 on the camshafts.
  6. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Camshaft sprocket mounting bolt by loosening it
    • VVT mounting bolt by loosening it
    • Camshaft Locking tool JD 215
    • Primary timing chain tensioner and backing plate
    • Primary timing chain guide
    • VVT unit and exhaust camshaft sprocket
    • Secondary timing chain tensioner and guide
    NOTE: Keep all valvetrain components in order for assembly. To install:
  7. Prepare the timing chain tensioners for installation by using a paperclip or other wire to unseat the check valves and compressing the pistons into their bores.
  8. Install or connect the following:
    • Secondary timing chain guide. Tighten the bolt to 89-124 inch lbs. (10-14 Nm).
    • Secondary timing chain tensioner. Tighten the bolt to 89-124 inch lbs. (10-14 Nm).
    • VVT, secondary timing chain and exhaust cam sprocket
    • Primary timing chain
    • Primary timing chain guide. Tighten the bolt to 10-12 ft. lbs. (13-16 Nm).
    • Primary timing chain tensioner and backing plate. Tighten the bolts to 89-124 inch lbs. (10-14 Nm).
    • Primary timing chain slack, eliminate it by placing a wedge between the primary timing chain tensioner and the guide shoe
    • Secondary timing chain by applying counterclockwise force to the exhaust camshaft sprocket. Fig. 4: Apply force in a counterclockwise direction when tightening the sprocket mounting bolts - 6 cylinder 9301jg03.gif

    • Exhaust and intake VVT sprocket bolts. Tighten them to 85-92 ft. lbs. (115-125 Nm).
  9. Remove the tools and wedges.
  10. Install or connect the following:
    • CKP sensor
    • VVT sensor
    • Coolant outlet pipe
    • ECT sensor connector
    • Radiator and heater hoses
    • Timing chain cover
    • Valve cover
    • Accessory drive belt
    • Negative battery cable
  11. Fill the cooling system.
  12. Start the engine and check for leaks.
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Jan 28, 2011 | 1999 Jaguar XK8

1 Answer

Removal of inner primary cover


For the cover you may have to loosen your shifter linkage to be able to remove it from the bike depending on what model you have
As for the inner primary you'll have to take off the clutch the front & rear primary sprockets and chain. You can loosen the bolts to both sprockets,then loosen the chain tensioner.
Slide the front & rear sprocket & chain off with the clutch still attached. leave them together and set it aside as one big unit.
The inner primary has bolts with bent washer tabs. Bend the tabs flat so you can remove the bolts.
Thre is a lock ring around the transmission shaft that holds the inner primary on too. Remove that with lock-ring plier.
Depending on your model, you may have to remove the rotor/flywheel first before the inner primary comes off.
Don't for get to put a new engine o-ring back on the front hole of the inner primary when re-installing.

Dec 03, 2010 | Harley Davidson FXST Softail Standard...

1 Answer

I HAVE A HARLEY SPORSTER 1200, WILL NOT SHIFT OUT OG GEAR, STAYS IN HIGH GEAR....HELP PLEASE..............


Sounds like the shifter pawl is broken. This is common in Sportsters. You'll have to pull your primary drive to repair it.

Disconnect your battery, drain the primary, loosen the primary chain adjuster and remove the outer primary cover. Take the engine sprocket nut loose. Remove the snap ring in the clutch assemble and remove the throwout bearing. Remove the mainshaft nut that holds the clutch assembly on. This nut has LEFT HANDED threads. Lift the engine sprocket, primary chain, and the clutch assembly out of the primary case.

Now, you can get to the shifting mechanism and determine what the problem is.

Good luck
Steve

Aug 31, 2010 | Harley Davidson XL 1200 L Sporster Low...

1 Answer

I need to know how to set thte timing chain


Discoverd this indepth expalaination of process steps involved in the installation of the timing chain from an ASE certified technician. I hope this helps. See the repair manual on the link below.<br /> <br /> Link: <a href="http://www.2carpros.com/forum/2002-jaguar-xj8--gearbox-default-appear-on-dashboard/2000-jaguar-xj8-timing-chain-replacement-vt218070.html">http://www.2carpros.com/forum/2002-jaguar-xj8--gearbox-default-appear-on-dashboard/2000-jaguar-xj8-timing-chain-replacement-vt218070.html</a><br /> <table id="table14" style="BORDER-RIGHT: #000000 1px dashed; BORDER-TOP: #000000 1px dashed; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 1px dashed; BORDER-BOTTOM: #000000 1px dashed" bordercolordark="#000000" width="100%" bordercolorlight="#000000" border="0"> <tbody> <tr> <td style="BORDER-TOP-WIDTH: 1px" width="700"></td></tr> <tr> <td style="BORDER-TOP-WIDTH: 1px" width="700"><span class="name" roundtrip="0" lastvisited="3">By <a name="755408"></a><b roundtrip="0" lastvisited="0">Dave H</b>,<b> </b></span><span class="postdetails" roundtrip="0" lastvisited="0">Certified ASE Technician</span></td></tr> <tr> <td style="BORDER-TOP-WIDTH: 1px" width="100%" roundtrip="0" lastvisited="6"></td></tr> <tr> <td style="BORDER-TOP-WIDTH: 1px" width="700"></td></tr> <tr> <td style="BORDER-LEFT-WIDTH: 1px; BORDER-BOTTOM-WIDTH: 1px; BORDER-RIGHT-WIDTH: 1px"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"> <span class="postbody" roundtrip="0" lastvisited="77">PRIMARY TIMING CHAINS (NON-SUPERCHARGED) <br />NOTE:The 4.0L V8 has no engine timing alignment marks on the crankshaft or camshafts. Engine timing is achieved by installing the Crankshaft Setting Peg (303-531) and Camshaft Locking Tool (303-530). With the crankshaft setting peg in position, ensure the timing flat on each camshaft is in the uppermost position before installing camshaft locking tool. Variable camshaft timing unit may also be referred to as Variable Valve Timing (VVT) unit. <br /><br />NOTE:Special Tools Required: Crankshaft Setting Peg (303-531), Camshaft Locking Tool (303-530), Chain Tensioning Tool (303-532), Primary Chain Wedge (303-533) and Variable Camshaft Timing Oil Control Unit Setting Tool (303-654). See Fig. 232-Fig. 236 . <br /><br />NOTE:"A" bank refers to the right/passenger side of the vehicle and "B" bank refers to left/driver side of the vehicle. <br /><br />NOTE:Each door glass automatically drops 12 mm when the door is opened or when the convertible top is raised or lowered. It is important that windows are lowered before battery is disconnected to allow doors to shut properly. <br /><br />Removal ("A" Bank) <br />Tips Click a link to view tip <br />Tech1Tip: special tool <br /><br /><br />Remove timing cover. See TIMING CHAIN COVER (NON-SUPERCHARGED). <br />Remove the variable camshaft timing oil control solenoid. </span><br /> <span class="postbody" roundtrip="0" lastvisited="77">Remove the variable camshaft timing oil control unit housing retaining bolts and remove the variable camshaft timing oil control unit housing. </span><br /> <span class="postbody" roundtrip="0" lastvisited="77">Remove and discard the variable camshaft timing oil control unit housing "O" rings. <br />Raise and support vehicle. Remove the bolt which secures the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor to the flywheel housing. Remove the CKP sensor and allow it to hang free under the engine. Remove the torque converter bolts access grommet from the flywheel housing. </span><br /> <span class="postbody" roundtrip="0" lastvisited="77">Install the crankshaft damper bolt (old one) to the crankshaft, hand-tight only. Rotate crankshaft until the triangular arrow indent on the flywheel is visible through the access hole. See Fig. 144. Confirm that the timing flat on each camshaft is uppermost position. <br />Position the crankshaft so that the Crankshaft Setting Peg (303-531) engages fully into the timing slot. Install and tighten the bolt to secure the crankshaft setting peg. See Fig. 145. Remove the crankshaft damper bolt from the crankshaft and lower the vehicle. <br />Install the Camshaft Locking Tool (303-530) to the "A" bank camshafts, aligning the shafts slightly as necessary. Loosen the bolt that secures the exhaust camshaft sprocket and the bolt that secures the variable camshaft timing oil control unit. See Fig. 146. Remove camshaft locking tool. <br />Remove the primary chain tensioner bolts, primary chain tensioner and tensioner backing plate. See Fig. 147. <br />Remove the primary timing chain tensioner pivot bolt and remove the primary timing chain tensioner blade. See Fig. 148. <br />Remove the bolt which secures the primary timing chain guide. Noting the position of the primary timing chain guide, remove the primary timing chain guide from the upper retaining pin. See Fig. 149. <br />Remove the primary timing chain from the variable camshaft timing oil control unit and from the crankshaft sprocket. Clean and inspect all components. <br />Installation <br />If "B" bank timing chain was removed, see INSTALLATION. If not, go to next step. <br />If previously removed, install the timing chain sprocket to the crankshaft. The teeth of the "A" bank and the "B" bank timing chain sprockets on the crankshaft must be out of phase with each other. If they are in phase after installing, remove the sprocket, turn it on its vertical axis and reinstall sprocket. See Fig. 150. <br />Install the chain tensioning tool to the exhaust camshaft sprocket. Reposition the sprocket (and the variable camshaft timing oil control unit) for the most advantageous position for use of the tool. See Fig. 151. Remove the tool. <br />Install the primary timing chain into position over the crankshaft sprocket and the variable camshaft timing oil control unit. There must be no slack on the drive side of the primary timing chain and the sprockets must not be rotated on the camshafts, or the tensioning tool may not fit. See Fig. 152. <br />Install the primary timing chain tensioner blade to the cylinder block. See Fig. 148. Install the pivot bolt and tighten specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS. <br />Push the primary timing chain tensioner piston into the tensioner body to provide clearance for installing the primary timing chain. Insert a thin rigid wire through the hole in the end of the tensioner piston to displace the ball from the non-return valve seat. See Fig. 153. With the wire in position, press the piston fully into the tensioner body. Remove the wire. <br />Install the 2 primary timing chain tensioner bolts to the primary timing chain tensioner and locate the tensioner backing-plate on to the 2 bolts. Align and install the primary timing chain tensioner to the cylinder block and to the mating slot on the rear face of the primary timing chain tensioner blade. See Fig. 147. Tighten the primary timing chain tensioner bolts to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS. <br />Use a Primary Chain Wedge (303-533), or 2 if needed, between the primary timing chain tensioner and primary timing chain tensioner blade, to take up the slack in the chain for tightening of the variable camshaft timing control unit and exhaust camshaft sprocket. See Fig. 154. <br />Using the chain tensioning tool, apply force to the tool in an counterclockwise direction to tension the chain on its drive side. See Fig. 151. While applying opposing force to the sprocket and chain, tighten the exhaust camshaft sprocket bolt to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS. <br />Using the Variable Camshaft Timing Oil Control Unit Setting Tool (303-654), rotate the variable camshaft timing oil control unit fully counterclockwise to the fully retarded position. See Fig. 155. <br />Check that the primary chain wedges are still in place. While applying opposing force to the sprocket and chain using the chain tensioning tool, tighten the variable camshaft timing oil control unit bolt to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS. Remove the chain tensioning tool and the primary chain wedges and camshaft locking tool. <br />Raise and support vehicle. Remove crankshaft setting peg. Install the CKP sensor and bolt to the flywheel housing. See Fig. 143. Tighten the CKP sensor bolt to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS. Install the access grommet to the housing and lower the vehicle. <br />WARNING:Check that the ring dowels are engaged squarely. Fully locate the assembly as much as possible by hand. Failure to follow this procedure may result in damage to the vehicle. <br /><br />Install NEW "O" rings to the variable camshaft timing oil control unit housing. Lubricate the "O" rings and the bushing. Install the variable camshaft timing oil control unit housing. See Fig. 142. Install the variable camshaft timing oil control unit housing bolts. Tighten to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS. <br />Install the variable camshaft timing oil control solenoid. See Fig. 141. Install and tighten the variable camshaft timing oil control solenoid bolt to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS. <br />Install the timing chain cover. See TIMING CHAIN COVER (NON-SUPERCHARGED). </span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table>

Aug 26, 2010 | 2001 Jaguar XJ8

2 Answers

Timing on 4.7 help


INSTALLATION
  1. Using a vise, lightly compress the secondary chain tensioner piston until the piston step is flush with the tensioner body. Using a pin or suitable tool, release ratchet pawl by pulling pawl back against spring force through access hole on side of tensioner. While continuing to hold pawl back, Push ratchet device to approximately 2 mm from the tensioner body. Install Special Tool 8514 lock pin into hole on front of tensioner. Slowly open vise to transfer piston spring force to lock pin (Resetting Secondary Chain Tensioners).
  2. Position primary chain tensioner over oil pump and insert bolts into lower two holes on tensioner bracket. Tighten bolts to 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.). CAUTION: Overtightening the tensioner arm torx® bolt can cause severe damage to the cylinder head. Tighten torx® bolt to specified torque only.
  3. Install right side chain tensioner arm. Apply Mopar® Lock N, Seal to torx® bolt, tighten bolt to 17 N·m (150 in. lbs.). NOTE: The silver bolts retain the guides to the cylinder heads and the black bolts retain the guides to the engine block.
  4. Install the left side chain guide. Tighten the bolts to 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.). CAUTION: Overtightening the tensioner arm torx® bolt can cause severe damage to the cylinder head. Tighten torx® bolt to specified torque only.
  5. Install left side chain tensioner arm. Apply Mopar® Lock N, Seal to torx® bolt, tighten bolt to 17 N·m (150 in. lbs.).
  6. Install the right side chain guide. Tighten the bolts to 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.).
  7. Install both secondary chains onto the idler sprocket. Align two plated links on the secondary chains to be visible through the two lower openings on the idler sprocket (4 o'clock and 8 o'clock). Once the secondary timing chains are installed, position special tool 8515 to hold chains in place for installation (Installing Secondary Timing Chains on Idler Sprocket).
  8. Align primary chain double plated links with the timing mark at 12 o'clock on the idler sprocket. Align the primary chain single plated link with the timing mark at 6 o'clock on the crankshaft sprocket (Timing Chain System).
  9. Lubricate idler shaft and bushings with clean engine oil.
  10. Install all chains, crankshaft sprocket, and idler sprocket as an assembly (Installing Idler Gear, Primary and Secondary Timing Chains). After guiding both secondary chains through the block and cylinder head openings, affix chains with a elastic strap or the equivalent, This will maintain tension on chains to aid in installation. NOTE: It will be necessary to slightly rotate camshafts for sprocket installation.
  11. Align left camshaft sprocket “L” dot to plated link on chain.
  12. Align right camshaft sprocket “R” dot to plated link on chain. CAUTION: Remove excess oil from the camshaft sprocket bolt. Failure to do so can result in over-torque of bolt resulting in bolt failure.
  13. Remove Special Tool 8515, then attach both sprockets to camshafts. Remove excess oil from bolts, then Install sprocket bolts, but do not tighten at this time.
  14. Verify that all plated links are aligned with the marks on all sprockets and the “V8” marks on camshaft sprockets are at the 12 o'clock position (Timing Chain System). CAUTION: Ensure the plate between the left secondary chain tensioner and block is correctly installed.
  15. Install both secondary chain tensioners. Tighten bolts to 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.). NOTE: Left and right secondary chain tensioners are not common.
  16. Before installing idler sprocket bolt, lubricate washer with oil, and tighten idler sprocket assembly retaining bolt to 34 N·m (25 ft. lbs.).
  17. Remove all locking pins (3) from tensioners. CAUTION: After pulling locking pins out of each tensioner, DO NOT manually extend the tensioner(s) ratchet. Doing so will over tension the chains, resulting in noise and/or high timing chain loads.
  18. Using Special Tool 6958, Spanner with Adaptor Pins 8346, tighten left (Tightening Left Side Camshaft Sprocket Bolt) and right (Tightening Right Side Camshaft Sprocket Bolt). camshaft sprocket bolts to 122 N·m (90 ft. lbs.).
  19. Rotate engine two full revolutions. Verify timing marks are at the follow locations:
  20. Lubricate all three chains with engine oil.
  21. After installing all chains, it is recommended that the idler gear end play be checked (Measuring Idler Gear End Play). The end play must be within 0.10–0.25 mm (0.004–0.010 in.). If not within specification, the idler gear must be replaced.
  22. Install timing chain cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN COVER(S) - INSTALLATION) and crankshaft damper (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER - INSTALLATION).
  23. Install cylinder head covers (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - INSTALLATION). NOTE: Before installing threaded plug in right cylinder head, the plug must be coated with sealant to prevent leaks.
  24. Coat the large threaded access plug with Mopar® Thread Sealant with Teflon, then install into the right cylinder head and tighten to 81 N·m (60 ft. lbs.) (Cylinder Head Access Plug Location).
  25. Install the oil fill housing.
  26. Install access plug in left cylinder head (Cylinder Head Access Plug Location).
  27. Install power steering pump (Refer to 19 - STEERING/PUMP - INSTALLATION).
  28. Install radiator fan shroud.
  29. Fill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
  30. Connect negative cable to battery.

Jul 08, 2009 | 2000 Dodge Durango

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