Question about 2002 KTM LC8 950 Rally

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Bleeding brakes Have just finished fitting my high front fender on the 950 adv and now just need to get the brakes bled

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  • Anonymous Dec 31, 2008

    you seem to know what your doin so cud u tl me what ill need to bleed the bakes on my 2002 ktm sx 125

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  • Master
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Anyone have any ideas as to which is the best way to do it seeing as though it now has a new brake line on the front. Any suggestions or taking the **** much appreciated.pump and shut is the way i do it takes about 15 minutes for front and rear with fresh fluid. ie Pump the brake three times then open the bleed nipple wait until the lever softens up to the grip tighten without letting go of the lever and pump again and so on etc... As for the vacuum i use a large vets syringe and some pipe ( robbed from the wifes lamb reviving kit ) Please note : No lambs died during the making of my Bleeding kit.,,,

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

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1997 mercury sable gs 3.0l replaced master brake, still having brake pedal feeling spongy and slowly traveling down. i bench bled master brake and bled brake right rear left rear right then front.


If the master cylinder is replaced, care must be taken to prime the new master cylinder by removing all of the air and completely filling it with brake fluid. The spongy feeling is air that is still in the circuits. You will need to bleed the back brakes as well as the front ones again. The order that you bled them seems correct, but perhaps there remained some air in the main trunk lines.

For the best results 2 people are needed. Start at the further distance wheel cylinder and bleed at least three (3) master cylinder reservoir volumes of fluid (back brakes). Bleed the fluid with use of a piece of tubing attached to the bleed port that is long enough to reach almost to the bottom of a long neck or tall clear jar (clear drink bottle works well). When the bleeding begins, after one or two brake pedal pushes, make sure that the end of the tubing is below the surface of the fluid and keep it under. It best to have a clear bleed line (to observe air). Keep pumping the brake pedal while being careful to not completely empty the master cylinder reservoir (leave 1/4 full always). Repeat the same technique for each wheel cylinder with at least two (2) reservoirs full for front brakes. Partially close the bleed ports when almost finished (at least 5 pedal strokes without exit of any air). Completely close the ports during the down stroke of the brake pedal, with the tubing still attached. Be sure each bleed port is closed snuggly.
Most of the brake fluid can be reused, but not the darker portion at the bottom of the jar.

Oct 09, 2016 | 1997 Mercury Sable

1 Answer

Brakes sticking on


Sounds like still air in the system...re-bleed...be sure to start at rear wheel farthest away, then next rear, then away front, then close to master cylinder...also did you bench bleed the master cylinder?

May 02, 2015 | 2005 Hyundai Tucson

1 Answer

Brakes on a Lincoln mark viii coupe 1995 fitted new M/cylinder L/front and R/rear wont bleed is somthing wrong in the abs and how much for a new unit


All four brakes must be bled to eliminate the trapped air...probably not anything else...try lubricating the bleeder fitting with PB Blaster before trying to open...be cautious as this valve can break off, and that means rebuild the caliper drill out broken fitting...or replace caliper...either way all 4 brakes must be bled...start with the rear farthest away from the master cylinder then other rear...then right front, then last is left front...Hope this helps.

Sep 06, 2012 | 1995 Lincoln Mark VIII

1 Answer

I have a 2004 Chevy Malibu. I have replaced the front brake pads, calipers and rotor and bled the brakes but they are still mushy. I heard that they have to be gravity bled. My question is: Do the brakes...


no,to gravity beed just open bleeder remove master cylinder cap & dont let it go empty.
if you only opened the front you may just need to bleed the front.some times pumping up
brakes before bleeding will help start the gravity bleed.

good luck

Jun 22, 2011 | 2004 Chevrolet Malibu

1 Answer

Need to know procedure for bleeding brakes on1987 gmc s15 2.8 litre 4x4 front disc w/abs


MANUAL BLEEDING

For those of us who are not fortunate enough to have access to a power bleeding tool, the manual brake bleeding procedure will quite adequately remove air from the hydraulic system. The major difference between the pressure and manual bleeding procedures is that the manual method takes more time and will require help from an assistant. One person must depress the brake pedal, while another opens and closes the bleeder screws.

In addition to a length of clear neoprene bleeder hose, bleeder wrenches and a clear bleeder bottle (old plastic jar or drink bottle will suffice), bleeding late-model ABS systems may also require the use of one or more relatively inexpensive combination valve pressure bleeding tools (which are used to depress one or more valves in order to allow component/system bleeding). To fully bleed the late model ABS systems, a scan tool should also be used to run the system through functional tests.
  1. Clean the top of the master cylinder, remove the cover and fill the reservoirs with clean fluid. To prevent squirting fluid, and possibly damaging painted surfaces, install the cover during the procedure, but be sure to frequently check and top off the reservoirs with fresh fluid.
CAUTION Never reuse brake fluid which has been bled from the system.
  1. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected to contain air. If the master cylinder was removed and bench bled before installation it must still be bled, but it should take less time and effort. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
    1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle's finish as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.
    1. Loosen the front brake line at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.
    2. Have a friend depress the brake pedal slowly and hold (air and/or fluid should be expelled from the loose fitting). Tighten the line, then release the brake pedal and wait 15 seconds. Loosen the fitting and repeat until all air is removed from the master cylinder bore.
    3. When finished, tighten the line fitting to 20 ft. lbs. (5 Nm).
    4. Repeat the sequence at the master cylinder rear pipe fitting.
During the bleeding procedure, make sure your assistant does NOT release the brake pedal while a fitting is loosened or while a bleeder screw is opening. Air will be drawn back into the system.
  1. Check and refill the master cylinder reservoir.
Remember, if the reservoir is allowed to empty of fluid during the procedure, air will be drawn into the system and the bleeding procedure must be restarted at the master cylinder assembly.
  1. On late model ABS equipped vehicles, perform the special ABS procedures as described later in this section. On 4 wheel ABS systems the Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (BPMV) must be bled (if it has been replaced or if it is suspected to contain air) and on most Rear Wheel Anti-Lock (RWAL) systems the combination valve must be held open. In both cases, special combination valve depressor tools should be used during bleeding and a scan tool must be used for ABS function tests.
  1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
    1. Right rear
    2. Left rear
    3. Right front
    4. Left front
  2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
    1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end. Be sure the hose is seated snugly on the screw or you may be squirted with brake fluid.
Be very careful when bleeding wheel cylinders and brake calipers. The bleeder screws often rust in position and may easily break off if forced. Installing a new bleeder screw will often require removal of the component and may include overhaul or replacement of the wheel cylinder/caliper. To help prevent the possibility of breaking a bleeder screw, spray it with some penetrating oil before attempting to loosen it.
    1. Submerge the other end of the tube in a transparent container of clean brake fluid.
    2. Loosen the bleed screw, then have a friend apply the brake pedal slowly and hold. Tighten the bleed screw to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm), release the brake pedal and wait 15 seconds. Repeat the sequence (including the 15 second pause) until all air is expelled from the caliper or cylinder.
    3. Tighten the bleeder screw to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm) when finished.
  1. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.
  2. If the brake warning light is on, depress the brake pedal firmly. If there is no air in the system, the light will go out.
  3. After bleeding, make sure that a firm pedal is achieved before attempting to move the vehicle.

Hope helps (remember to rate this answer).

Apr 13, 2011 | 1987 GMC Jimmy

1 Answer

I replaced the whole back break line,as i try to bleed them i get fluid out of the front passenger side and the back driver side,but nothing out of the other two.whats the problem?


Hi, your proportioning valve is stuck. Take the caps off and recenter the one stuck valve. Then rebleed the system using the procedure below. Thanks for using fixya.

jturcotte_1047.gif
For those of us who are not fortunate enough to have access to a power bleeding tool, the manual brake bleeding procedure will quite adequately remove air from the hydraulic system. The major difference between the pressure and manual bleeding procedures is that the manual method takes more time and will require help from an assistant. One person must depress the brake pedal, while another opens and closes the bleeder screws.
  1. Deplete the vacuum reserve by applying the brakes several times with the ignition OFF .
  2. Clean the top of the master cylinder, remove the cover and fill the reservoirs with clean fluid.
  3. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected to contain air. If the master cylinder was removed and bench bled before installation it must still be bled, but it should take less time and effort. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
    1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
    2. Loosen the front brake line(s) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.




WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle's finish as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.

  1. Tighten the line connection(s).
  2. Have an assistant depress and hold the brake pedal.
  3. Loosen the line connection(s) again, allowing air to escape from the master cylinder.
  4. Tighten the line(s), then have the assistant release the brake pedal and wait for 15 seconds.
  5. Repeat steps D through F until the line(s) are free of air.
  6. When finished bleeding the air from the master cylinder, tighten the line connections to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
  7. Repeat steps B through H, only with the master cylinder rear pipe fitting(s).

  1. Refill the master cylinder with fresh brake fluid.



WARNING Never reuse brake fluid that has been bled from the system.

  1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
    1. Right rear
    2. Left rear
    3. Right front
    4. Left front

  2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
    1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end. Be sure the hose is seated snugly on the screw or you may be squirted with brake fluid.
    2. Submerge the other end of the tube in a transparent container of clean brake fluid.
    3. With the help of an assistant, apply the brake pedal slowly and hold.


During the bleeding procedure, make sure your assistant does NOT release the brake pedal while a fitting is loosened or while a bleeder screw is opening. Air will be drawn back into the system.
  1. While the assistant continues to apply pressure to the brake pedal, loosen the bleeder screw, and watch for air bubbles in the container.

Be very careful when loosening the wheel cylinder and brake caliper bleeding screws. The bleeder screws often rust in position and may easily break off if forced. To help prevent the possibility of breaking a bleeder screw, spray it with some penetrating oil before attempting to loosen it. Installing a new bleeder screw will often require removal of the component and may include overhaul or replacement of the wheel cylinder/caliper.
  1. Tighten the bleeder screw.
  2. Instruct the assistant to release the brake pedal.
  3. Wait approximately 15 seconds, and instruct the assistant to depress the brake pedal again.

Remember, if the reservoir is allowed to empty of fluid during the procedure, air will be drawn into the system and the bleeding procedure must be restarted at the master cylinder assembly.
  1. Repeat steps C through F until there are no air bubbles present in the container.

  1. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.
  2. If the brake warning light is on, depress the brake pedal firmly. If there is no air in the system, the light will go out.
  3. Once all the air is bled from the system, install the bleeder screw caps.
  4. After bleeding, make sure that a firm pedal is achieved before attempting to move the vehicle.

Feb 14, 2011 | 1994 Pontiac Grand Am

1 Answer

How to bleed brakes on 1997 Saturn


The brake system bleeding procedure differs for ABS and non-ABS vehicles. The following procedure pertains only to non-ABS vehicles. For details on bleeding ABS equipped vehicles, refer to the ABS procedures later in this section.

WARNING Make sure the master cylinder contains clean DOT 3 brake fluid at all times during the procedure.
  1. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected of containing air. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
    1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
    2. Loosen the left front brake line (front upper port) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.
    3. Connect the line and tighten to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).
    4. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal slowly one time and hold it down, while you loosen the front line to expel air from the master cylinder. Tighten the line, then release the brake pedal. Repeat until all air is removed from the master cylinder.
    5. Tighten the brake line to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm) when finished.
    6. Repeat these steps for the right front brake line (rear upper port) at the master cylinder.
WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle' finish, as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.
  1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
    1. Right rear
    2. Left front
    3. Left rear
    4. Right front
  2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
    1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end.
    2. Submerge the other end in a transparent container of brake fluid.
    3. Loosen the bleed screw, then have an assistant apply the brake pedal slowly and hold it down. Close the bleed screw, then release the brake pedal. Repeat the sequence until all air is expelled from the caliper or cylinder.
    4. When finished, tighten the bleed screw to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm) for the front, or 66 inch lbs. (7.5 Nm) for the rear.
  3. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.
zjlimited_349.jpg

Fig. 1: Loosen the front brake line in order to bleed the master cylinder

zjlimited_350.jpg

Fig. 2: Connect a bleed hose from the bleed valve on the front caliper to a jar of brake fluid

zjlimited_351.jpg

Fig. 3: Always follow the lettered sequence when bleeding the hydraulic brake system





Hope this helps to solve it; remember to rate this answer.

Dec 29, 2010 | 1997 Saturn SL

1 Answer

Installed new master cly.,bench bled, bled rr, broke off lr bleed valve (not opened), bled rf, tried bleeding lf but getting no fluid to caliper. is problem with proportiner valve?


The problem is probably that you must do the lr before moving to the front. The air in the lr will make it too spongy to bleed the front.
A wheel cylinder is only $25, so you might as well just replace it. And if you use vasoline or brake lube on the bleeder, it will not rust up on you next time.

Proportioning valves are not supposed to block a bleed. They can malfunction, but should not supposed to. And if you have the back working, that should reset the proportioning valve anyway. You can't leave the back. It must be finished.

Jun 07, 2010 | 1990 Plymouth Voyager

1 Answer

I have a 94 cavalier rs and i put a rear wheel cylinder in it and i started to bleed the brakes and i bled the right rear and it bled fine then i went to the side where i put the wheel cylinder in and it...


well sounds like its still full of air youll have to gravity bleed it. if you can leave your car on a steep hill overnight with the rear end up then bleed it the do the same make your front end sit high up overnight then bleed it. air bubbles always try to make their way to the highest point

Oct 19, 2009 | 1994 Chevrolet Cavalier

2 Answers

I've taken off the front brake hose & drained my front brake caliper. After re-assembly I can't get any pressure built up in the line. When I squeeze the brake lever it's totally free/loose/floppy. Can u...


Hi, The lines have to be bled to get the air out. There is a small fitting on the calipers to do this. The best procedure is to use a piece of tubing and a glass jar. Fill the fluid reservoir up to the top. Put some brake fluid in the jar, barely open the fitting, squeeze the brake lever and watch for bubbles, pump the lever until there are no more bubbles and it tightens up. Be careful not to run the reservoir too low and get air back in the line. This should Fixsya!

Feb 26, 2009 | 2000 Honda VT 1100 C3 Shadow Aero

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