Question about 2002 KTM LC4 625 Sc

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Lowering bike I'm the proud new owner of a 2001 640 LC4. I have a serious offroad bike (YZ250F) for competition and tough trails. Would like to lower my 640 to make it a bit easier to handle on the road and easier trails I anticipate riding on. I am 6' with a 33 inseam and it's still hard for me to swing a leg over! I have done a fair amount of suspension work and am able to lower the forks and shorten the shock. Main question is

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Would I be better off shortening the rear shock or would the Emig link or something similar be better? Would you still have full amount of travel in the rear with the link? Looks like it would just change the swingarm location to me. Any clearance issues with the rear fender on full compression? Would it balance OK with the front if travel there is reduced to 10 or so?I have an '02 LC4 that I lowered the front forks by sliding them up into the triple clamp about 3/4. I had to put a washer under the handlebar mount to get the forks up as high as I could. Since I weigh 225 plus gear I set the rear sag about 1/4 inch over what it should be. I also bought racetech springs for the front and Adventurer springs for the rear. With my weight and the lowering method I used the seat height is about 1 1/4 lower than stock at static sag. With me on it it drops about 1 1/2 to 2 lower than stock. I can reach the ground easily. I don't really need to be lower since I am 6'1 but I like to ride tight trails and prefer to be able to put my foot down even when off camber downhill. I never botton since the racetech springs do there part, and I still have full travel length.,,,

Posted on Nov 10, 2008


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you sure can. You just need to get one that has the same size diameter steering tube as the one you currently have. You will need some special tools to remove the headset races that are pressed on to the fork and then you can move them to the new fork.

As far as "upgrading" to a longer travel fork, take into consideration that when you do this, you will change the geometry of the bike, effectively "slackening" the head tube angle and they will dramatically affect the steering of the bicycle, it will turn very "sluggishly" and feel like it flops from side to side almost.

Not a big deal if you are on the street, but in a technical offroad situation, this can be a problem if you are not used to the new handling dynamics.

Bicycle frames are literally built around the forks for their handling characteristics. But you say, "I see this done on motorcycles all the time." Yes this is true, but the devil is in the details. On motorcycles a "triple-tree" crown is used and typically the lower tree is machined with the proper offset factored in so that longer forks can be used without lifting the frame and affecting the handling. The one major factor that determines the handling characteristics of two wheeled travel is the measure of the front wheel's "trail". Google it and you will find volumes of information on it and how it is measured. For bicycles there is a "sweet spot" of trail measurement, most manufacturers keep this as a proprietary secret. Before you actually swap out the forks, you can calculate how the longer forks you plan on installing on your bike will affect the trail measurement on your bike to determine if you want to ride the bike this way, before you spend the money. Only you can decide if it is better to save up the money to buy a longer travel bike with the correct geometry or not.

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There are lowering kits available. But, your bike is for use as a competition machine. If it is too big for you then get a smaller bike.If you lower the machine it will no longer function in the way it was designed. In other words it will have less ground clearance, so it is a waste of time having this particular model. If you take some of the padding out of the seat and then recover it that should lower the seat height.

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