Question about 2005 Hyosung GT 650 S

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Front brake pulses/surges when applied - 2005 Hyosung GT 650 S

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Is almost certainly a warped front brake disc. Easy and quick to fix (less than 1 hour labor) but the disc itself can be expensive. Buy a quality used one if possible.

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

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How can I repair my 74 sportster front disc brake that locks up


You have to figure out why it is locking up and what you mean by that. Does the brake remain applied after it is applied or does the wheel lock up when the brake is applied??

If the front brake remains applied after the brake lever is released it could be a problem in the master cylinder which diagnosis would normally require disassembly of the master cylinder, although loosening the hydraulic fitting right at the master cylinder would release the pressure after the master cylinder so if it was being held applied by the master cylinder that would indicate that the problem of brakes remaining applied was due to a fault in the master cylinder rather than somewhere else in the hydraulic system. If this did not release the pressure and the brakes it would appear to be a problem after the master cylinder and in that case it could also be a flexible brake line that has had a piece of rubber come loose internally that is acting like a flapper valve and letting hydraulic pressure be applied but not relieved. In this case loosening the brake line at the wheel cylinder would release the pressure and free up the brake at the wheel. If someone has put ANY amount of the wrong specification brake fluid in the system ALL rubber seals and other rubber parts including hoses would be ruined/swelled and the WHOLE brake hydraulic system would need to be removed and replaced new and then the correct specification brake fluid added/used.

If the brakes apply but do not release the wheel cylinder might also be the cause by being damaged by the use of improper specification brake fluid as above OR the piston may be corroded and seized OR the wheel cylinder installation and operating pins may be corroded, dried out and/or worn so that the wheel cylinder cannot move freely as it needs to do. This would all need to be inspected to find the cause of a wheel cylinder sticking brake problem.


If what your problem is, is that the brakes lock the wheel from rotating quickly when applied but the brake does not remain applied as discussed above it may be that the wrong wheel and/or and more likely the wrong master cylinder and not the correct one for the bike and brake system is installed on the motorcycle.


John

Aug 18, 2014 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

ABS pulses when using front brake


check the abs sensor, fluid level, air in the lines, electrical harness for any damage, the abs pump and the computer

Oct 03, 2013 | 2011 Harley Davidson FLHTK Electra Glide...

1 Answer

Rear brake light will not work when brake pedal is applied, both front and rear brakes run through same sensor front brake applies rear light, but rear brake pedal doesnt. where is the problem?


It sounds like the rear brake pressure switch is bad. The wires for the front brake light switch are wired in parallel to the this switch. Replace the pressure switch in the metal brake line coming from the rear brake master cylinder going to the rear brake caliper.

Good Luck
Steve

Aug 21, 2011 | 2000 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide...

1 Answer

I just wanted know can low brake pads make your motorcyle shake in the front maybe i was going between 35mph or 40mph and it shimmied like it felt like the wheel was going to fall off, when i applied the...


A warped brake disk or loose disk can cause a shimmy or "pulsing" in the front wheel. Check by gently applying the front brake. Feel a pulse or hear the pads repeatedly rub then release? Obviously, the disk run-out can be checked with a dial gauge but most owners don't have one. Ignore the brakes for a moment and check the wheel, wheel cylinder and disk mountings. Are they tight? Are the wheel bearings solid, does the wheel have lateral play? Does the steering stem have any movement, i.e. bad or loose stem bearings? Low pads should not cause your problem. Please rate my answer. Thanks!

Apr 01, 2011 | Yamaha Road Star Silverado Motorcycles

2 Answers

I have had the brake pads replaced recently and the brake fluid replaced. The brake pads are in contact with the rotors and have a constant scrapping sound. Is this normal? How do you adjust the brakes so...


To answer your question, Yes, this is normal and there is no adjustment in any disc brake system to stop this. In a disc brake system, the pads are supposed to ride against the rotor all the time with a light force. This is to keep the rotor clean and dry at all times. That's why disc brakes are so good in rainy weather where the old drum brakes would get water in them and then you had nearly no brakes at all.

Now, when you had your brakes done, you probably asked for the "best" brake pads available. These would be sintered metal brake pads. Due to their composition, they will be a bit more noisey than than the standard "organic compound" pads. Most people get used to it or put up with the noise to get the better braking. Not only are they noisey, they wear the rotors quicker as well. But, they provide the best braking of any pads on the market.

Good Luck
steve

Oct 03, 2010 | 2005 Harley Davidson FXD - FXDI Dyna Super...

2 Answers

Does this model brakes front and rear at the same time when we press just front break ?


no ...you have a rear brake pedal to control the rear brake and the front is controlled by a brake lever which supplies 3/4 of all stopping power. Dont ever slam down on the rear brake pedal just apply it gradually.

Mar 29, 2010 | 1993 Honda CBR 1000 F

1 Answer

Sometimes when i apply the front brake i feel a pulsing or quick thumping... tightened the steering bearing but no change..ant the front brakes are good but they squeal


Well the front brakes aren't good if they squeal as squeling alone is going to raise my eye to somethings wrong. Good breakes don't squeal. Thumping like you say may be the rotors may be out of round as the brake that squeals is'nt returning all the way when it's not being applied making it get too hot ruiening the brake pads boiling the brake pads and warping the rotors. Motorcycle rotors don't urn well ( machine at parts store ) and the service is'nt recomened as the saftty of the rider is put in jeporty.. You don't need to crash because you bikes not up to good. *** rotrs can be bought on the internet and catalog suppliers as the aftermarket sells these popular bike parts. The dealer parts are only a little better and they will cost plenty. If in dought have a pro do it. The life you may save may be your own,

Aug 28, 2009 | 2006 Yamaha YZF-R6

1 Answer

Rear brake light will not come on when rear brake is applied


If your brake lights are not coming when pressing the foot brake this means that there is something wrong with the switch..Have a closer look near the brake lever and you will see a spring attached to it which in turn is connected to the brake switch..Try to pull it down and if you see your brake lights working then you only need to adjust the spring setting..Else try to make a manual close connection and if it goes on then replace the switch..

Jun 16, 2009 | 1984 Honda VT 500 C Shadow

2 Answers

86 Honda CT500C - Front brakes don't activate brake light


the swich is just at the corner of brake leaver, notice that there will be a wire coming from the leaver....... that is the switch wire

Jun 04, 2009 | 1985 Honda VT 500 C Shadow

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I wrecked my 2005 Hyosung GT 650S last year, a person in an S.U.V. caused me to wreck and then left me there laying in the road. I am in the process of getting it back on the road and am having electrical problems. The small wire (14ga-16ga) black with white stripe, that goes to the negative battery terminal is getting hot only when bike is running. I can turn key on and it is fine but when bike is running it is getting around 18 amps at idle going through it, according to my Fluke amp clamp, I didn't raise the r.p.m.s during the test. I disconnected my rectifier/regulator and it drops to around 1.5 amps. I disconnected the DC plug on my rectifier/regulator and made a jumper, routing the red positive dc wire to where it would normally go and routing the negative dc wire directly to negative post on my battery, when I started the bike I had 18 amps going through the jumper wire I made from the dc negative on the regulator to the negative battery post. I made an auxiliary ground strap for the regulator housing and that didn't help so I assumed my regulator/rectifier was bad and ordered a new one. I installed the new regulator/rectifier and while the amperage has gone down to around 8.5 amps at idle it is still too high, raising to 15 amps at only 5000 r.p.m.s. My stator output is around 20 AC volts at idle and around 100 AC volts at 9000 r.p.m.s. I think it is the stator because if I unplug my regulator or stator the amperage immediately drops and I can't believe the new regulator I installed is failing in the same manner unless there is another problem causing it to fail. Other than that wire getting hot my charging system is working normally, approx 13.5 DC volts at battery. I also tried a different battery thinking maybe it had been internally damaged in the wreck. Everything electrical that was damaged in the wreck has been replaced, like my headlight and turn signals. Any advice on what to check would be appreciated.

Jul 13, 2014 | 2005 Hyosung GT 650 S

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