Question about 2005 Hyosung GT 650 S

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Final drive belt or o-ring chains

I'm looking to get a cruiser-style motorcycle

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And have noticed that the cheaper brands such as Hyosung use final-drive belts instead of o-ring chains. Is this a significant indicator of lower quality or performance? Is there any real difference between the two types of final-drive? I have heard that the belt slightly lowers the horsepower to the rear wheel. To be honest I haven't noticed. I do like the minimal maintenance. Chains are a little noisier require lubrication, cleaning, more frequent tensioning..... Is Harley Davidson a cheaper brand? They use belt drives. They last at least as long, if not longer than chains.,,,

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

Can you change final drive belt on a softail without removing primary


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Good Luck
Steve

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I am trying to find out whether my 2010 nt700v has a belt or chain primary drive, or if the shaft drive has neither a chain or belt primary drive. My searches seem to result in no good information.


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Good Luck
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2 Answers

Final Belt Drive on HARLEY DAVIDSON


Belts = quite, durable, less cost to replace.
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1 Answer

Is the final drive chain on a 2002 honda ace a 525-122 0-ring chain?


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I wrecked my 2005 Hyosung GT 650S last year, a person in an S.U.V. caused me to wreck and then left me there laying in the road. I am in the process of getting it back on the road and am having electrical problems. The small wire (14ga-16ga) black with white stripe, that goes to the negative battery terminal is getting hot only when bike is running. I can turn key on and it is fine but when bike is running it is getting around 18 amps at idle going through it, according to my Fluke amp clamp, I didn't raise the r.p.m.s during the test. I disconnected my rectifier/regulator and it drops to around 1.5 amps. I disconnected the DC plug on my rectifier/regulator and made a jumper, routing the red positive dc wire to where it would normally go and routing the negative dc wire directly to negative post on my battery, when I started the bike I had 18 amps going through the jumper wire I made from the dc negative on the regulator to the negative battery post. I made an auxiliary ground strap for the regulator housing and that didn't help so I assumed my regulator/rectifier was bad and ordered a new one. I installed the new regulator/rectifier and while the amperage has gone down to around 8.5 amps at idle it is still too high, raising to 15 amps at only 5000 r.p.m.s. My stator output is around 20 AC volts at idle and around 100 AC volts at 9000 r.p.m.s. I think it is the stator because if I unplug my regulator or stator the amperage immediately drops and I can't believe the new regulator I installed is failing in the same manner unless there is another problem causing it to fail. Other than that wire getting hot my charging system is working normally, approx 13.5 DC volts at battery. I also tried a different battery thinking maybe it had been internally damaged in the wreck. Everything electrical that was damaged in the wreck has been replaced, like my headlight and turn signals. Any advice on what to check would be appreciated.

Jul 13, 2014 | 2005 Hyosung GT 650 S

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