Question about 2007 HM CRM F450RR I

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Chain tight spot

Got crm f450rr Correct slack is approx 15-20mm

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BUT adjusted like that there's a tight spot with 0mm. The green new chain required gauge on swinging arm tells me there's plenty of life left in the O ring chain. I've done approx 7K miles and chain wasn't new when I got the bike about 15 months ago. The sprockets are not BADLY worn. I fitted a Scottoiler 7 or 8 hundred miles ago..........Do you folks think I need a new chain and sprockets? This tight spot has only very recently become evident - don't think I've damaged the chain but maybe I have. Think I'm talking myself into new chain here!..............Anyone got advice about cheap/good value UK suppliers? Could do the job myself I thinkIf the tight spot is bad enough you will need to replace. And you MUST do it as a set...chain and sprockets. It is a waste of money to just replace the chain because the worn sprockets will wear it out in no time. And do not cheap out on the chain. Make sure you get a good quality O or X- Ring chain. I know the popular thing to do with sprockets is to get Aluminum to save weight, but I'd get the steel. It may weigh more but it will last twice as long. Just re-read, if it is adjusted to spec and the tight spot has no freeplay, yeah, time to replace.,,,

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

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I have a 95 Kawasaki Vulcan 800. My chain loose in some spots and then it becomes tight with less then an inch of slack in it. How do I adjust this to make it right.


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check the teeth of the sprocket and if they look like triangles then replace the sprockets
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How to fix my alighnment


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Cam chain tightness? how too adjust?


The cam chain tensioner is an automatic device. When the chain wears past a certain point and the tensioner can no longer compensate for the slack, it must be replaced.
Failure to replace a slack / worn chain can have severe consequenses, even if the chain does not break.

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1 Answer

I need to tighten my chain on my fzr 1000,its a 1987


The first step is to find the tightest part of the chain. Unless it's a brand new chain it will have a tight spot somewhere on it. It's easiest to do this with the bike on a race stand if you have it. Rotate the wheel and observe the lower part of the chain and watch it lift up when you hit tight spots. The spot where the chain lifts highest is the tightest part of the chain. Once you have found this spot, grab the chain on the low side under the swingarm and move it up and down. It should move up and down around 30-35mm or so, or an inch and a bit if you're an imperialist :) If the chain moves more or less than this then it needs to be adjusted.

To adjust the chain, you need to loosen the axle first. Don't take the nut off but it has to be loose enough to undo by hand. Using 2 spanners, unlock the lock nuts on the end of the swingarm and wind the nut in or out until you get the correct amount of chain slack. always do the sprocket side (left side) first, then repeat the same on the other side. Check the chain adjuster marks to make sure that the adjusters are equal on both sides, this will make sure your rear wheel is aligned properly.

Once you have adjusted the chain, tighten the rear axle and check again. The chain slack will change slightly after you tighten the axle, it might go tighter, it might go looser. Depends on the bike. But the chain slack must be correct with the axle tightened. A bit of practise here and you will be able to guess the correct amount before tightening the rear axle.

Once you have the slack set correctly and the axle is tight, make sure to tighten the adjusters. Tighten the front nut first against the swingarm plate so it can't move. Do it tight but not crazy tight. Then holding the first nut so it can't move tighten the locknut against the first nut. Repeat this on both sides.

If you are not quite sure if the chain is right, always err on the side of making it too loose rather than too tight. Running your chain too tight can destroy your output shaft bearing. It's only about $30 or so for a new one but your engine needs to be completely stripped down to replace it, it's not a fun job. I have seen a lot of FZs and FZRs have this problem because people ran chains too tight. If your chain really is too loose then it will start making your gear changes harder to do, that's the sign you need to tighten it.

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1 Answer

Fuel capacity


7.2 l (1.9 gallon US)

Nov 10, 2008 | 2007 HM CRM F450RR I

1 Answer

Exhaust


The most likely cause is that the motor is running very lean. Make sure that all of the componets for the air intake system are connected and not leaking. This can happen if you have changed to one of the new high flow air cleaners like K&N. This causes the air/fuel mixture to have too much air and not enough fuel (lean). If you can adjust the carb then make it richer.,

Nov 10, 2008 | 2007 HM CRM F450RR I

1 Answer

Dry Weight


105.2 kg (231.9 pounds)

Nov 10, 2008 | 2007 HM CRM F450RR I

1 Answer

Chain


Put it up on your stand lossen the axel and remove the bolt on the bottom of the shock. Then tighten your chain and lift your swingarm up until its horizontal with the ground, then the chain should have almost no play. Not completely tight, but almost no play. Tighten the axel, and the bolt on the shock, and your set,,,

Nov 10, 2008 | 2007 HM CRM 125R

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