Went out today to set the sag on my cr250 and cant seem to get it.
Sag is supposed to be approx 100mm. (4in.) Is this right?
When I started it was at about 2 inches. So I back off the collars against the spring and have a friend measure for me. We get to the point that there is little to no tension on the spring with the bike on the stand and no compression on the suspension. Now I only have about 2.5 inches of sag.
Is this normal? Am I doing something wrong?
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Your going to have to keep working through the manual, it has way more info than can be typed here. If it feels too hard and youre out of adjustment, you need to try a softer spring. you can try anything that works for you, forks up, down, more or less sag, there is no quick simple fix and what one rider says is good may not work for another, and a different track may change things completely. harsh front- reduce the compression damping, high speed or low speed depending on how far the forks are compressing or lighter oil, if you go too light it may try to tank slap and need a steering damper. If you use all the travel, then the springs are close to correct, it can even bottom out a little on the biggest jumps
One step at a time and take notes of each change, including how it felt and what the track was like.. this is the way to see what works, and give you the option to easily change it back if it doesnt
In general you want to set sag for around 25-30% of the total suspension travel. Most dirt bikes are around 300mm of travel so set your sag (race sag) at around 85-90mm. Once you have done that, check the sag (static sag) without rider. It should be around 5% or so. If the static sag is more than 5% your spring is too hard. If it's less than 5% or zero then your spring is too light. This applies to both front and rear suspension.
These setting's don't have to be exact but it will definitely get you in the ballpark and help your bike to be balanced between front and rear. Also when you check race sag, you need to be in your natural riding position standing on the pegs wearing all your riding gear.
hi although i canot see your bike i am fairly sure what you mean is that your forks sag about 25mm, this is normal, sag is a tecnical term for the sinking of your forks, while seting front suspension preload, this is the amount of tension you put on the fork spring by turning the adjusting nut on the top of each fork, it is most important you first note how much static sag you have , if you have any further points please contact me
Compression settings are adjusted in conjunction with rebound settings AFTER the rear spring pre-load/sag is properly set. The springs on both these bikes are too soft for 230-235 lbs. so they would need to be replaced with the correct stiffer spring rates to properly set sag for starters. You can work around this by attempting to set sag near the ballpark and then compensate for this by adjusting the clickers. This requires you to adjust your settings the way pro tuners do - trial and error.
Put it on a stand take a tape measure. find the length from the middle of the axle bolt to the bottom of the fender. Ok next put the bike on the ground and sit on it this may take more people put all of your weight on the bike have some one measure it the same way as when it was on the stand. now find the difference of it. the correct sag should be about 100mm. if it is not the loosen the ring at the top grab the spring and spin it right or left depending on your measurements.
A: Static Sag or Race Sag is the amount the bike compresses from fully extended, with the rider on board.
Here's how to measure it.
First extend the forks or shock completely and measure from the wiper to the bottom of the triple clamp on forks or from the axle to a vertical reference point on the chassis. This is L1.
Take the bike off the stand, put the rider on board in riding position. Get an assistant to balance the bike or have the rider hold onto something, comress the suspension about 25 mm (1") and let it extend very slowly (slowly is the critical term). Where it stops, measure the distance between the wiper and the bottom of the triple clamp or the axle and the reference point on the chassis again. Do not bounce. This is L2. (If there were no friction in the seals the bike would come up a little further.)
Next lift up on the suspension and let it drop very slowly. Where it stops measure again. Do not bounce. This is L3. The reason L2 and L3 are different is due to stiction or drag in the seals and bushings. (If there were no friction in the seals or the linkage the bike would drop a little further.)
Half way between L1 and L2 is where it would come to rest with no friction. Therefore L2 and L3 must be averaged and subtracted from L1 to calculate true Static Sag. Static Sag = L1 - (L3 L2)/2
To adjust Static Sag make longer or shorter preload spacers or use the preload adjusters, if available. It is important to note that there are no magic Sag numbers. However here are some guidelines to use as starting points.
adjust your sag but i saw a pro do it with no more than 4 inches. Be sure your wearing all your gear when checking the sag.
For rebound if the back of the bike is coming up and hit your butt when your on the breaks before a corner you have to much rear rebound. One good idea is to have a friend film you while you ride to see what the bike is doing. If it packs down to little rebound if it jumps up and down to much rebound. Compression will adjust how fast the shocks move in. If your at a track your suspension should bottom out on the biggest jump which should be about once a lap.
Most bikes are set up to wear you don't really need to move the compression or rebound clickers.
First thing have to do as I said before is to adjust your sag.