I live in a rural area and the dealer is a long ride.
My chain needs to be tightened and I don't have any new cotter pins to use (holds the nuts in place for the rear tire).
Is it safe to reuse the cotter pins rather than wait on a chain that is too loose? I don't have any damage from the loose chain but don't want to push it either.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
A single bolt with a cotter pin holds the rear wheel on the axle, covered with a plastic dust cap. Remove the cap, Remove the pin, then use a pry bar to hold the wheel in place while you undo the axle nut. Once removed, tap the end of the axle with a rubber mallet or use a piece of wood and a hammer until the wheel comes loose. Remove, use motorcycle tire tools to remove tire, replace tire, and remount wheel. Use a new cotter pin.
Loosen the bolt on the rear axle after removing the cotter pin holding the bolt in place. Adjust the chain tension by rotating the adjuster cams on the left and right side of the wheel. See diagram below. Set the two adjusters evenly to keep the wheel inline on the swingarm. Retighten the axle nut and put the cotter pin back in place. Have the parts department look at the rear sprocket. Chances are the sprocket is worn out also. If it is, the front sprocket will be worn out also. Worn out sprockets will cause your new chain to wear out quickly. Please rate my answer. Thanks.
hi, it sounds to me like the bike has been ridden hard and needs the chain replacing due to it strecthing. on the swing arm at the back is their two bolts sticking out the end of each swing arm their should be one in one side of the swing arm and one in the other side of the swing arm, this is right at the very back of the swing arm. if you find these then these are the adjusters for the back wheel you then need to loosen the back wheel bolt but dont take it out then adjust these adjusters by the same amount do it in half a turn a time you need to do both the same else the back wheel wont be level keep tightening them in and this will then pull the wheel back and this will tighten the chain if its all ready adjusted fully then the chain is scrap and needs replacing, if you dont have adjusters then the chain needs replacing, it will keep coming off if its slack
you can cause damage to the bike if the chain comes off whilst riding at speed so it may be best to get the chain before you use the bike
The large axle bolt holds the wheel in place. The adjusters are only used for setting the position of the wheel , mainly for chain and sprocket alignment. First remove the cotter pin and loosen the large nut on the axle bolt. Now you can loosen the adjuster bolts and slide the wheel forward. If you have the correct length chain for the sprockets every thing should fit perfectly. When you unhook the old master link do not remove the chain. Hook the new chain to the old chain using the old master link ( do not lock it on) just use it to pull the chain around the front sprocket. This will save you having to take off the front sprocket cover. I usually find it helpful to count the links on the old chain and lay the chains side by side to make sure the new chain does not get cut too short. If the chain is too short , you may have to get another master link and add some chain back in to get the correct length. Hope this helps.
well first get the bike up on a stand or set it on a milk crate. Loosen up main axle nuts you may need another wrench on the other side to back it up. loosen any small chain adjustment nuts. pull the chain as far back as it can go all the time looking a the chain sag..you want to keep about 5/8 to 1 inch play...lock just the axle nuts down snug...now spin the tire to see that all parts of the chain maintain this amount of sag. if its too tight in one area, you have a "stretched chain", and this will now be the focal point for tightening up the chain...this tighter part must have "some" slack in it...id say give it about 1/2 inch...now tighten up the chain adjustment nuts finger tight and look at your rear sprocket and make sure it lines up perfectly straight on with the counter shaft sprocket up front. Once this is aligned, tighten the smaller nuts snug, then proceed to torque down lightly maybe 10- 20 ftlbs. now spin the tire to check your slack in the chain did it move on you? Then you have to tighten or loosen the chain adjustment nuts a little more in or out till you get it right so it can move into the correct position. Once you got it right torque down on the main axle nuts 50-60ft lbs. Now tighten evenly each chain nut with the same ammount of turns to each....tighten the last nut down hard onto the first so they wont vibrate off. Now you should lube the chain..and your ready to go. after a while of hard riding recheck everything just to make sure shes secure! Can i get a very helpful on this. thanks!
Set the bike on its center stand, then loosen the rear axle by removing cotter pin from hex nut and loosening the nut. There are two adjustment bolts, with lock nuts - one on each side of the rear axle. They are easily work with from the rear of the bike. Loosen the lock nuts and turn the adjustment bolts clockwise. this will draw the rear axle (wheel) backwards - tightening the chain. Take care to turn each side the same amount, so the rear wheel remains straight. Usually the flex in the chain should be about a quarter inch. After adjusting, tighten lock nuts to hold position of rear axle and tighten the axle nut, replace cotter pin.
To tighten a loose chain you need to pull the cotter key pin from the rear axle then loosen but do not remove the nut. It just has to be loose enough to slide in the swingarm. At this point there are tension adjusters on the ends of the swing arm you tighten them to take the slack out of the chain. NOT TO TIGHT! You should have 1 inch of play in the chain this is up down play not front to back. I push the chain up the highest it can go and measure how far it falls. NOTE: TURN THE TENSION ADJUSTERS THE SAME AMOUNT THE SAME DIRECTION IF THE AXLE IS TWISTED YOU WILL THROW THE CHAIN. This can make for a bad six months!
remove the chain. dont loose the pin. loosen the axle nut remove the axle. have a hand on the wheel as it will drop out at this point. install will be a bit harder. i like to lower the bike once the tire is under the fender. lower it until the holes are almost lined up. it beats trying to balance a tire and slip teh axle back in place. be sure to tighten the axle bolt to torque spec. too loose and you can get a shake, too tight and you can alter the path of the chain by a fraction and may cause premature chain wear.