I noticed last night that the little nipple on the bottom of my new to me 07 with the Sachs shock touches the exhaust right about where the pipe and silencer connect. Is this normal? The body of the canister on the shock nearly touches and the little nipple on the bottom clearly touches. Seems like some heat needlessly would be transfered to the shock. I never ran the back pipe mount on the 02 perhaps if I removed it on the 07 the pipe would drop enough to clear that little nipple PLease advise.
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Re: Shock Nipple Touches Pipe
Mine went the other way touched the frame. The pipe got tweaked a hair when I hit a stump without the Hyde it would have been toast. I added some washers to the upper mount and foward silencer mount to space it off the frame worked fine.,,,
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Had this problem about a month ago when I replaced my clutch and brake pipes.
Ensure bike is in upright position and not on side stand. Cover your grips and tank due to fluid spillage.
Use slow motions and pump 10 times depressing the clutch and releasing it fully, before opening nipple. Use only dot 4 or 5 brake fluid. Try by first opening the bleeding nipple, depress clutch, close nipple, release clutch. Do this several times prior to standard bleeding procedure. In my case and I don't know if this was random, but the clutch master's seals collapsed when I removed the pressure in the pipe whilst replacing the clutch and brake pipes. Factory specs say you should replace the brake and clutch pipes every 2 years, so I used braided hoses, they last almost a lifetime in my opinion. It still stays a tedious job bleeding the clutch, so pack a can of patience. In my case I eventually got it right in a unconventional manner. I filled a bleeding bottle(small plastic coke bottle would work fine)with new fluid. I then opened the bleeding nipple (reservoir should be empty when doing this) and gently squeezed fluid through the nipple until it reached the reservoir. This is NOT a recommended procedure as you may damage your master's seal, but I was desperate. After reservoir is full, bleed clutch using standard operating procedure and with a bit of luck you will be having clutch. Hope this helps!
try each suspension bolt in turn just so they are loose and move suspension up and down , as i think that one of the bushes could be dry of grease! when was the last time the rear suspension system and the swing arm pivot spindle was removed and greased up ?? some pivot points mite have a grease nipple , but i suggest if this is the problem to remove and clean bolts and the holes then grease up so to last ! depends how much you use the bike in wet or sandy conditions as when to repeat this also !!
Well, I don't know if it's got a specific name since I've never seen that piece offered seperately. But, if I had to assign it a name, I'd call it a "nipple". More specifically a "filter nipple" because it is actually a "pipe nipple" that an oil filter screws onto. A pipe nipple is what plumbers and pipe fitters call a short piece of pipe. Some of them have standard threads and others are metric threaded but they're still "pipe nipples". So, there, we've made up a new name for the part. Works for me.
hi there...... their should be a wee nipple or an 8mm nut on the caliper the best way to bleed from the caliper is to open this ........while it is open squeeze the break then close it finger tight is enough and release the brake then pump again may take several attempts to get it right but should work handy enough but the ..... IMPORTANT thing is time the the opening of the nipple and the squeeze of the break so open nipple then squeeze fluid should come out close nipple release break then squeeze fluid back into caliper as i said this may take a few goes but you will notice the air come out of the nipple which is what it is for and will notice the breaks pressurizing when the air is been removed also the reason for timing is that when releasing the break with the nipple open you will take air up into the caliper which is not what ya want but not a catastrophy either it is easy enough to time and do so dont be daunted by it also as a precaution may be good to get a bottle of brake fluid but not essential good luck and hope it helps
Leaking shock absorber? leak from brake fluid reservoir?
Coolant from cap top/bottom/or core of radiator?
Perished/otherwise unsound radiator hose/hoseclip?
Expansion tank overflow? (check the level is not above the FULL mark on the expansion tank)
Brake fluid from top/bottom of front brake hose?
Brake fluid from bleed nipple?
Brake fluid leaking from brakes caliper piston or centre seal?
First I must state I'm not familiar with your particular model but AM familiar with rear shocks.(have re-built hundreds)
First thin to check is that if it is re-buildable!
The easiest way to tell this is to see your dealer and ask to see the parts fisch for the rear shock. If it displays a seal assembly then it is re-buildable.
Also you could try a local shock repairer/suspension tuner, they should Know.
Here in Australia a shock re-build costs about $300-$350 if the shock shaft hasn't got wear damage to the chrome.(They can be re-chromed)
If the shaft is worn then its not much different to the price of a new one I'm afraid.
As the shock is charged with nitrogen gas to high pressure I would NOT RECOMMEND you to try rebuild it yourself !!!!
But removing it yourself, while a little tricky sometimes,can save some$
Hope this helps a little
P.S. To find a shock repairer in your area try the classified section at the back of your favorite road bike magazine!!!
The shock would get just as hot without the exhaust being next to it.
The amount of heat generated by the thousands of up/down cycles a shock goes through, especially at racing speeds, is higher than the heat transferred from the pipe being next to it.