Has anyone else had a problem with burning the throttle cable? I noticed when I purchased my fse400 that the cable was burnt and it got worse after taking it out on the first ride. It was running horizontally out from the throttle body and then between the radiator and the frame. This made it run very close to the pipe where it was coming out of the head. I am getting a new cable and don't want to make the same mistake. It could cause serious problems and strand me out in the bush.
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Re: Placement of Throttle Cable
I can't tell you how glad I am to hear of a problem my '05 FSE doesn't have! Mine won't melt the throttle cable to do that it would have to start (kick or electric) and then stay running (just shuts off now and then). Haven't dared take it more than 1/2 mile from home (couldn't push it back from any further) now it's warm enough that I don't want to push it at all so it will probably continue to gather dust until fall. I sure wish there was a dealer within a few hours ride who knew anything about them.,,
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Check simple basics first, Fresh fuel; new spark plugs, clean air filter. If all are good most likely has dirty carbs that require a proper removal and cleaning. Clogged passages and jets cause a lean condition which will make a bike very cold natured and rough running at cold start up but runs better when warm. As for the throttle cable the one missing is likely the closing cable. You will be able to apply throttle with out it however in the event of a stuck throttle or runaway engine for some other reason you will not be able to close the throttle. THIS WILL BE DANGEROUS TO OPERATE.
Ok, I'm not very familiar with fuel injected models because I don't work on them but they should have a throttle cable like anything else. In the cable somewhere (usually close to the throttle grip) it has an adjuster. There should be two cables, a throttle cable and an idle cable. The throttle cable is the cable towards the front of the bike at the throttle mechanism as it pulls the throttle open. Loosen the lock nut and adjust the cable to take most but not all the slack out of the cable. You must have a bit of slack in each cable for the throttle to work freely. Do the same with the idle cable nearest the rear of the bike.
Once finished, with the engine off, twist the throttle grip to the wide open throttle position and release it. It should snap shut. If it doesn't it's not adjusted correctly. Readjust the throttle cable and idle cable until the throttle operates properly. You must get this right.
Failure to properly adjust the throttle cables could result in the loss of control of the bike resulting in serious injury or death. If you are not sure of how to do this, find someone who knows how to do it. You don't want your throttle sticking on you.
To change the throttle cables, remove the air cleaner, filter, and backing plate to allow good access to the carburetor. Some bikes even require removing the fuel tank. Then loosen the throttle cable and idle cable adjusters and turn them to their shortest position giving you as much slack as possible.
Remove the two screws that hold the right handlebar switch housing halves together. Carefully seperate the halves and remove the cables from the throttle grip. Do not lose the cable ferrels. The cables should pull out of the bottom of the switch housing now. You may have to put some penetrating oil on the metal ends that are in the switch housing and work them around a bit. They have a little metal ring on them that expands once it's in the hole of the switch houseing. They can be very aggrevating to say the least.
With the grip ends loose, removing the carb ends is simple. Get some slack in the cable, align it with the slot in the carb and remove it. Do the same with the idle cable.
Installing the new cables are the exact reverse of removing the old ones. Remember, the idle cable is the one with the spring on the cable. If you purchased any cable other than a Harley cable, lube the cable with some "Dri-Slide". I always lube any cable (including Harley cables) that I install. Lube the inside of the throttle grip and the outside of the handlebar with white lithium grease. Lube the nylon part of the throttle grip with the same grease where the cables connect to it.
Once you get the cables on, it is very important that you get the cables adjusted correctly. Adjust the throttle cable first so that you have just a bit of slack in the cable. The throttle should open wide open and when shut, you should have a bit of slack in the cable. Then I like to adjust the idle cable tight enough so that I actually starts to compress the little spring on the cable at the carb end. Not much but just a bit of compression on the spring.
Once you're finished, make absolutely certain that your throttle control is working smoothly, freely, and will return to closed position when you let go of it. If it won't do this, it is unsafe. Work with it until you find the problem. Failure to do this job properly could cause throttle stickage and lead to serious injury or death. Make SURE you have the job done correctly before riding the bike.
If you're talking about the old style throttle cable that is internal of the handlebar, it's pretty straight forward. Remove the throttle grip, the rollers and pin for the plunger. Pull the plunger out bringing the old throttle cable with it or at least out far enough to loosen the small set screws that lock the cable in. Now, run the new cable through the outer housing. put the end of new cable into the plunger and tighten the set screws. Replace plunger into the handlebar, replace pin and rollers, replace throttle grip. Now, set the throttle to full closed posititon. Move carb throttle lever to full closed position. With throttle cable through clamp tighten screw securing cable. Check for proper operation of throttle mechanism.
Wrong size throttle cable or misadjustment. At the handlebars, I've seen some set that acceleration causes a pull of the cable, I've also seen bikes set to push the cable. Confirm this is set correctly, and that your mechanic used the correct legnth of cable.
remove the top of the carburator, compress the spring on the jet, you will see the end of the throttle cable, unhook it from the holder, unthread the top of the cable from the carburator, pull the cable out. Now it is disconnected from the carburator, now disconnect from the throttle handle by removing the the two screws on the handle, unscrew the adjustment, then detach the cable. Replace in repeat order.
That's interesting, I have run throttle cables for many years with minimal stretching.
Are you tightening the lock nut at the adjustment?
And are you sure you have the cables adjusted properly?
Specifically the return cable, if it is too tight it will conflict with the primary cable, this will cause the primary cable to (over time) pull on and eventually stretch the return cable.
Try loosening the return cable, then with the throttle wide open ,tighten the return until it has just "a hair" of free play.
Then adjust the throttle to where it has just a very small amount of free play ,then tighten the lock nuts.
Then check to be sure the return cable has some play when the throttle is closed and if necessary re-adjust.
Two further possibilities: the cable itself is frayed, or grit and dirt have got in and are preventing the cable from sliding within the lining. If it's either of these cases, I think you'll need a new cable