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Re: Electrical system acting up at high RPM
Halogen headlight taillight/brake light turn signals odo/speedo and horn.
Here are the problems…
Above about 6000 RPM the ignition will intermittently cut out. It doesn’t do it all the time. The higher the RPM the more it tends to cut out. Reducing RPM brings the lights back to bright.
Above about 6000 RPM the lights start to dim intermittently. The higher the RPM the dimmer they get to where the lights almost go out. The engine runs fine if the RPM is reduced.
The tachometer records some very high RPMS when the system starts to act up. Max RPM recorded is 19999 which is totally unreasonable.
I am looking for some assistance in troubleshooting my electrical system and how to isolate the problem(s).,Start by disconnecting the cables from the generator coils and start up your engine. Problem still there?
Do this to find out if your problems stems from the power side or the ignition side. If bike now runs fine, I'd look at the voltage regulator.
Have you checked that all your connectors are ok? A grounding problem with a somewhat loose connector would be vibration sensitive, hence the problems at higher rpm. Is your stator plate securely fastened? Is your engine grounded to chassis? There might be a loose fastening in one of you engine mounts.
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Hi, Tony this will rule out any fuel related issues if you are still having problems then it is probably an electrical scenario and you should resubmit your question and put my name in the details box so I can give you electrical suspects but the usual fuel related suspects are:
1. Throttle cables misaligned or misrouted.
2. Damaged or restricted fuel tank venting system.
3. Inlet system air leak.
4. Vacuum piston malfunction.
5. Accelerator pump leaking or no output.
6. Plugged bowl vent.
7. Fuel level in bowl too low.
8. Restricted fuel supply passages.
9. Plugged jets or passages.
10. Worn or damaged needle or needle jet.
12. The enricher valve not seated or leaking.
For more information about your issue please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
Energy consumption for home air conditioning accounts for almost 5% of all the electricity produced in the USA.Energy Policy Act mandates minimum energy efficiency standards for commercial buildings, using research and standards developed by the American Society of Heating, Refrigerating, and Air Conditioning Engineers.Energy Star qualified central air conditioners have a higher seasonal efficiency rating (SEER) than standard models, which makes them about 14% more efficient than standard models.Energy efficiency specialists with certified training on retrofits and energy savings on both residential and light commercial units may enable you to save up to 50 percent on your air conditioning bills with the use of a high efficiency energy system.Substantial energy savings can be obtained from more efficient systems.
SEER (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio) is related to the Energy Efficiency Ratio (EER), which is the ratio of output cooling in Btu/Hr and the input power in watts W at a given operating point and also to the coefficient of performance (COP) commonly used in thermodynamics.SEER rating more accurately reflects overall system efficiency on a seasonal basis and EER reflects the system’s energy efficiency at peak day operations.
The SEER rating is the Btu of cooling output during a typical cooling-season divided by the total electric energy input in watt-hours during the same period.SEER is related to the Energy Efficiency Ratio (EER), which is the ratio of output cooling in Btu/Hr and the input power in watts W at a given operating point and also to the coefficient of performance (COP) commonly used in thermodynamics.SEER rating more accurately reflects overall system efficiency on a seasonal basis and EER reflects the system’s energy efficiency at peak day operations.The higher the SEER number, the greater the efficiency of your unit. Therefore you will realize greater energy savings.The higher efficiency your product, the lower your long-term energy costs will be.Both central AC and air source heat pumps are rated according to seasonal energy efficiency ratio (SEER).
Before you consider upgrading your cooling equipment, the cheapest way to save money and energy from cooling is to reduce the need for mechanical air conditioning in the first place.Ask your contractor about a variable speed air handler, which will improve comfort and efficiency and allow continuous air filtering at minimum energy cost.Also, because ducts are often responsible for a lot of wasted energy, make sure you hire a contractor who knows about high-efficiency installations.If your central air conditioning unit is more than 12 years old, replacing it with an Energy Star qualified model could cut your cooling costs by 30 percent.
Hi, Anonymous 61125 is not an error code it is the current PPU (pulses per unit) number that has been downloaded to your ECM and is used to calibrate your speedometer. If you change tire size and or gearing your speedometer will become inaccurate, you need to recalibrate the speedometer, this can be done at your local Harley dealer or you can go online and purchase a calibration tool that is plug n play for around $100 there is a difference between stock EFI calibrations that may be causing some of the speed signal related issues you encounter. The stock calibrations for 2004 & later model years will write a PPU Value to the ECM. The current stock calibrations for 2003 & earlier models do not. The PPU Value is what controls the speed displayed on the speedometer, which in turn controls the turn signal cancellation. If you have downloaded a 2004 & later stock calibration into an ECM it should not be used on a 2003 or earlier motorcycle; the speedometer and turn signals will not function correctly even after updating the VIN and calibration to match the vehicle. SPEEDOMETER TROUBLE CODES
CODE - TROUBLE - WIRE COLOR
d01 - speed sensor power output shorted low - red
d02 - speed sensor power output shorted high - red
d03 - not used
d04 - not used
d05 - speed sensor return shorted high - white
d06 - speed sensor return shorted low - white
d07 - not used
d08 - speedometer power overvoltage - orange/white
d09 - speed output shorted high - white/green
d10 - speed output shorted low or open - white/green
5 digit number - speedometer pulses per unit
For more information about your issue please visit the websites below and for specific information or questions you can reach me at firstname.lastname@example.org. Good luck and have a nice day.
Yes you can, no problem. The battery will (theorically) recharge a little faster but the main advantage would be if you use more electricity with gismos like high intensity bulbs or heating vest. However you should not use a charger more power than 20% higher than the original as then your abttery could overheat or even overcharge.
Start with one bottle of yellow HEET dry gas to rule out moisture in fuel tank.
Check your battery age tag. Most battery can last up to 48 months.
An aged/old battery will cause sign problem to ECU.
Next item to check is idle air control motor.
Engine on and all electrical off
Next turn on ALL electrical items at the same time.
high beams,radio,A/C,fan at full blast
An IAC that can not raise the idle will cause the problem you are encountering.
Please start with HEET and rule out aged battery first.
IAC is expensive component to replace.