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Right front fork seal bad? Oil mess

Pullled tank for clutch cable replace. Noticed earlier oil wet on right front turn sig. After pulling tank looks like seal bad or something in right front fork. Now what? Is it a **** to check out? Wheel pull? I'm new at this and getting older by the minute. 1600 mi on 08 Military Ironhead. Guess another reason is

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Got away from rear break usage due to weird squealing which I've read about. The book says to use front brake as much as possible but puts downward load on front shocks alot. Damn Injuns. Sorry for the vent its a putter but the wife is asking why is it apart more than on the road. The wife I can fix the bike I need help.I'd replace the O-ring on the cap on top of the fork tube first. The turn signal is kinda high to be getting oil on it from a fork seal leaking.,,

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

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Front forks should be sealed properly, fork seal should be intact, no water or brake fluid in them. Right amount of fork fluid is imperative along with oil weight specification ( check manual and appropriate oil weight for your bike), wrong oil and amount can otherwise damage your forks.

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The headline of your post seems to have it correct, you have a fork seal leaking. To replace the seal, you must remove the fork slider, the lower part of the fork tube to replace the seal and then refill the fork with the proper amount of the proper oil. Here's how you do it on a conventional front fork. This is not for an "inverted fork" where the top part is larger than the bottom.

Remove the front wheel, the caliper if it's on this side or you decide to do both sides. Loosen the pinch bolt on the back side of the lower triple tree. Remove the large nut on the top side of the upper triple tree. Caution: there is a large spring under the nut. Usually, if the bike is completely off the ground, the sping is almost fully extended but it will still have some pressure on it. Remove the spring and work the fork tube out of the triple trees. Turn the thing upside down and pour the oil out of it. Notice in the very bottom of the lower slider where the axle goes through, there is an 8mm hex head bolt. Using a brand new hex key, remove this bolt. A hex key socket on an air wrench helps to remove this bolt. It takes a "piloted key" but you can get it out with a regular one as long as it new and not rounded. Once the bolt is out, pull the top tube out of the lower tube. You'll see the oil seal in the top of the lower slider. Pull the seal out and replace it with a new one. Reassemble the entire assembly and install back into the triple trees. Add the proper amount of the proper weight oil. This is what is commonly called a "dry" fill since you took everything off and wiped it down. Then insert the spring tapered end first and put the large nut back on the top.

Then do the other side if you wish. Only do one side at the time. The remaining tube that is put together helps hold the tube you're working on extended.

Good Luck
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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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There is a seal in the "slider" of the front fork, the part that moves up and down. I haven't had a chance to work on the later forks but the earlier 41mm forks are quite simple.

Start by taking the drain plug out of the bottom of the slider and work the slider up and down to blow out all the oil. Then, remove the front wheel. Remove the top cap from the upper tube and loosen the top plug. Now, with the top plug loose, loosen the pinch bolts and slide the fork out of the triple trees. Remove the top plug carefully, There is a BIG spring in there. Once you have the plug out lift the spring out and set it asside. Notice the tapered end of the spring. It goes back in first. Turn fork tube upside down and allow as much oil to drain out as possible.

Now, look at the bottom of the slider where the axle goes. Up in a hole there is an allen head bolt. it is designed to use a special wrench but a regular 8mm allen key in GOOD shape will take the bolt out. It's best to use an air wrench to do this with. With the bolt out, the slider should slide right off.

Down inside the top part of the slider is where the seal is. Theres a snap ring, a spacer, and a seal. Replace the seal and put a little oil on it to assist reassembly. Put everything thing back together and add the appropiate about of oil. Since your forks are much larger than mine, I have no specs as to the quantity. The owners manual should tell you or a call to a local Harley dealer. Sorry but thats a good as I can do. There is a "wet" measurement and a "dry" measurement. Since you disassembled your fork, use the "dry" quantity of oil

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1 Answer

98 yzf 600R..Right fork leaking. Problem and fix?


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82 honda sabre fork seal replacement


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V65 Sabre has fule filter behind battery and fule shutoff valve under seat.

Loosen upper triple-clamp pinch bolt before trying to remove fork cap.

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Remove fork cap, being careful of the spring pressure.

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Remove fork cap again and fill to appropriate level with 5 weight fork oil (Pro Honda SS-7 or equivalent). Use turkey-baster to remove excess oil to proper level (5 1/2 to 7 inches fully compressed depending on damping quality desired).

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2 Answers

Steering shakes very bad,from 55mph down to 20mph. slowing down


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Replacing seals and oil to the right fork will fix the shaking!
Hope this helps!

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1 Answer

Right front fork seal bad? Oil mess


got away from rear break usage due to weird squealing which I've read about. The book says to use front brake as much as possible but puts downward load on front shocks alot. Damn Injuns. Sorry for the vent its a putter but the wife is asking why is it apart more than on the road. The wife I can fix the bike I need help.I'd replace the O-ring on the cap on top of the fork tube first. The turn signal is kinda high to be getting oil on it from a fork seal leaking.,,

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