Question about 2007 Enfield Bullet Electra

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Push Rod Adjustment

My Electra was getting steadily noisier

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So I decided to jump in and adjust the ol' push rods. I had them done by the dealer 900 or so miles ago. I went to 'twirl' the exhaust rod and it came off. I had to make it nearly 1/4 inch longer to fit. It spins freely now with no up/down movement. The intake spins but is very tight. (haven't touched that one yet) I've turned it over through all four strokes - it seems fine. Could there be any damage? How did it stay in place? Should I remove the rocker covers and have a look see? I don't know what I'm supposed to see vs. what might be wrong.Definitely a good idea to check at the rockers. I have steps on tank removal and valve adjustment in the Maintenance section in my signature link. If I were you I'd: - remove the tank and valve covers and spark plug - set it to TDC compression - torque the head if it hasn't been done in the last 1684 miles - turn the engine over several times - put it back to TDC compression - set the valve clearance to .1mm cold (a loose .004 and a very tight .005 – or .005 does not fit). - rotate engine several times go back to TDC comp and double check the settings; now do it again and triple check them If you find that you can't get a consistent read after double and triple checking them (and/or after readjusting them several times), it is an indication that there is something wrong. Likely a pushrod, adjuster, or the receiver coming up from the cam (not sure what it's called). The pushrod and adjuster are easy fixes... Be careful when tightening the adjuster's lock nut. My bike is currently down awaiting a new adjuster since I just sheared mine in half by overtightening it. I'm going to use green Loctite from now on... At .1mm you should find an easy thumb twirl with no up/down freeplay and only a hint of side-to-side (or none at all).,,,

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

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Hello
I hope this helps out.
the 2 long push rods are the exhaust and the 2 short ones are the intake.
jack up the bike so the rear tire is off the ground.
put in 5th gear so you can turn over the motor by turning the back tire.
it takes 2 people, one to turn the tire and the other to be looking at the lifter to make sure it is at its lowest point.
you should have all push rods in but very loose.
start with the rear exhaust and then rear intake then front intake then front exhaust.
turn the motor over with back tire, looking at the lifter, watch to see it get to its lowest point.
when it is at its lowest point, stop turning the tire.
now tighten up the push rod so you can spin it but no up and down movement.
now tighten to push rod specs(factory or aftermarket have # of turns or flats to turn)
yours should be 3 turns, but check your manual specs or call dealer and ask how many turns for that year just to make sure.
after 3 turns the push rod will be tight.You have to wait about 15-20 minutes for the lifter to bleed down. try to spin the push rod after 20 minutes. if its hard to spin, wait 20 minutes more, if its hard to spin then you may have over tightened the push rod.
if the push rod spins freely but no up and down movement, then the lifter has bled down and your ready to move to the next push rod.
repeat this process with each push rod.
once done, make sure the spark plugs are out and turn the motor over a few times, as the motor turns over, have your buddy stop when you see a lifter at its lowest point and spin the push rod.
it should spin free with no up and down movement. check them all.
thats it.

just remember to make sure the number of turns for the type of push rods you have.
call the manufacturer who makes your push rods, or call the dealer if they are harley davidsion.

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Sir,
The bike you are working on has a couple of way to adjust the clutch. Obviously the adjuster on the handlebars would be the first place but actually there is an adjustment on the other end of the cable that has a locking nut on it. You will need to loosen the nut that locks the cable and there should be another nut on the other side of the cable that you can tighten. As you tighten the nut it will take the free play out of the cable.
There is another adjustment on the inside of the clutch cover, it is on the clutch hub. The adjustment for this would be done by removing the clutch cover to access the clutch hub. On the outside of the hub there is an 12mm nut locking down a 6mm adjusting screw, the screw is adcually the first source of adjustment on initial assembly.
Let me give you the breakdown of how this works, your clutch mechanism has the hub adjustment, a ball, and a push rod that goes through the primary output shaft of the transmission. Then it goes to the actuating arm where your cable connects. The reason I'm telling you this is because often the ball in between the hub adjuster screw and the clutch push rod becomes welded to the push rod or it will actually start to come apart. When this happens your clutch adjustment goes away and you have no adjustment available through the cable or the clutch lever. Should this be your case I would recommend you take the clutch cover off, (be sure to drain the oil first), remove the six 10mm nuts securing the clutch hub, (this also holds the clutch springs in place), then you will have access to the push rod and the ball. You may have to tilt the bike over on the right side to get the push rod and ball to come out.
When you go to reassemble the clutch make sure all the adjusters are loose so you can adjust the clutch in the following sequence:
  1. Assemble the hub and secure the springs. You want to adjust the hub screw first. Gently turn the screw in until it contacts the ball, then back out the screw 1/4 turn. This prevents the ball from welding it's self to the ball and plunger.
  2. Install the clutch cover and the clutch cable all the way to the lever. You will first adjust the free play out at the base of the cable so you have maximum adjustment at the lever.
  3. Adjust the lever so you have 1/4 of free play at the lever.
This will give you a properly adjusted clutch that has lots of adjustment at both the handlebars and at the base of the cable.

Good Luck! This is a DIY job, you wont need to take the bike to the shop if you are able to do any routine maintenance. Should you have to remove the clutch cover you will need to replace the right side, (clutch cover), engine gasket. If you take it apart I would recommend replacing the ball if it has any signs or wear, it will be blotted, this is a very cheap item that can cause much grief.

Let me know if you need any further assistance.

Regards,
RSelvy

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