An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 500 times.
Re: Push Rod Adjustment
So I decided to jump in and adjust the ol' push rods. I had them done by the dealer 900 or so miles ago. I went to 'twirl' the exhaust rod and it came off. I had to make it nearly 1/4 inch longer to fit. It spins freely now with no up/down movement. The intake spins but is very tight. (haven't touched that one yet) I've turned it over through all four strokes - it seems fine.
Could there be any damage?
How did it stay in place?
Should I remove the rocker covers and have a look see? I don't know what I'm supposed to see vs. what might be wrong.Definitely a good idea to check at the rockers. I have steps on tank removal and valve adjustment in the Maintenance section in my signature link.
If I were you I'd:
- remove the tank and valve covers and spark plug
- set it to TDC compression
- torque the head if it hasn't been done in the last 1684 miles
- turn the engine over several times
- put it back to TDC compression
- set the valve clearance to .1mm cold (a loose .004 and a very tight .005 – or .005 does not fit).
- rotate engine several times go back to TDC comp and double check the settings; now do it again and triple check them
If you find that you can't get a consistent read after double and triple checking them (and/or after readjusting them several times), it is an indication that there is something wrong. Likely a pushrod, adjuster, or the receiver coming up from the cam (not sure what it's called). The pushrod and adjuster are easy fixes...
Be careful when tightening the adjuster's lock nut. My bike is currently down awaiting a new adjuster since I just sheared mine in half by overtightening it. I'm going to use green Loctite from now on...
At .1mm you should find an easy thumb twirl with no up/down freeplay and only a hint of side-to-side (or none at all).,,,
a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Mechanic (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
most modern cars do not have an adjustment on the clutch slave cylinder push rod
it relies on the system being in good condition and the fingers of the pressure plate push the throw out bearing back and that pushes the slave cylinder back in far enough
If the push rod is under tension then there is a problem in the compensating port of the clutch master cylinder and the fix for that is a new master cylinder.
(a) Check that the pedal free play and push rod play are correct.
(1) Depress the pedal until clutch resistance begins to be felt. Pedal free play:
5.0 to 15.0 mm (0.197 to 0.591 in.)
(2) Gently depress the pedal until the resistance begins to increase a little. Push rod play at pedal top:
1.0 to 5.0 mm (0.039 to 0.197 in.)
(b) Adjust the pedal free play and push rod play.
(1) Loosen the lock nut and turn the push rod until the correct free play and push rod play are obtained.
(2) Tighten the lock nut.
Torque: 12 N*m (120 kgf*cm, 8.7 ft.*lbf)
(3) After adjusting the pedal free play, check the pedal height.
Hi, The adjustment is in the clutch slave push rod and master( where the pedal push rod attaches the master cylinder ) if it uses a hydraulic type. If it is cable type, the adjustment is on the cable front of the firewall, where the cable comes out from bulkhead.
I hope this helps out.
the 2 long push rods are the exhaust and the 2 short ones are the intake.
jack up the bike so the rear tire is off the ground.
put in 5th gear so you can turn over the motor by turning the back tire.
it takes 2 people, one to turn the tire and the other to be looking at the lifter to make sure it is at its lowest point.
you should have all push rods in but very loose.
start with the rear exhaust and then rear intake then front intake then front exhaust.
turn the motor over with back tire, looking at the lifter, watch to see it get to its lowest point.
when it is at its lowest point, stop turning the tire.
now tighten up the push rod so you can spin it but no up and down movement.
now tighten to push rod specs(factory or aftermarket have # of turns or flats to turn)
yours should be 3 turns, but check your manual specs or call dealer and ask how many turns for that year just to make sure.
after 3 turns the push rod will be tight.You have to wait about 15-20 minutes for the lifter to bleed down. try to spin the push rod after 20 minutes. if its hard to spin, wait 20 minutes more, if its hard to spin then you may have over tightened the push rod.
if the push rod spins freely but no up and down movement, then the lifter has bled down and your ready to move to the next push rod.
repeat this process with each push rod.
once done, make sure the spark plugs are out and turn the motor over a few times, as the motor turns over, have your buddy stop when you see a lifter at its lowest point and spin the push rod.
it should spin free with no up and down movement. check them all.
just remember to make sure the number of turns for the type of push rods you have.
call the manufacturer who makes your push rods, or call the dealer if they are harley davidsion.
Note: there is basically zero lash once the bike is running, because the oil takes up the clearance.
loosen the Adjustment screw on the Clutch master cylinder, carefully lift the pedal upward and connect the push rod to the pedal pin, Tighten the push rod adjustment screw, verify the the clutch operates correctly. (Haynes Repair Manual page 8-5, section 9 step 11 through 14) I highly recommend you get the Haynes repair manual on the vehicle ISBN: 978-1-56392-596-2 as it is possible that your vehicle may have a hydraulic clutch and if it does the steps to adjust the clutch assembly are more entailed.
If you dd not torque the front sprocket down correctly you could have an issue. If this is a new noise then be concerned, if this has progressed over time, then it is more than likely just the bike loosening up. Which is normal...but loud, could this be pre-detonation, did you make the correct adjustments to your MAP? Check you push rod adjustment with the bike cold, I mean Artic overnight not running cold.
There is an adjustment for the clutch pedal under the dash where the push rod goes thru the firewall. There is only aprx. 1/2" of adjustment so be careful when making an adjustment, if your clutch is slipping then you need to shorten the throw of the push rod.
Yea,don't fire it up.You might have valve problems.Do a compression check.Your plug will be tan to white.Check the push rods cold they have a LITTLE lash,if not they could be WAY to tight.After the compression test,if you freel lucky,do a push rod adjustment,who knows?Good luck.The plug could be oil fouled if it's open valve problem.If a valve is staying open you won't be able to readjust that pushrod.