Question about 2004 Enfield Bullet Electra

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Bike won't start -- loose tube on carburetor

This is a brand-new bike (25 miles) with the only real problem being the headlight not working (got a guy coming out next week). I went to start up the bike a few minutes ago to take it out for a ride

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  • Anonymous Mar 14, 2014

    my headlights are loose in the bracket. you don't notice when you ride the bike but cars in front of me think im flashing them. the adjustment screws do nothing to fix this problem.

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  • Master
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And it won't start! Doesn't seem like anything is happening at all. Got the fuel switch ON the ignition is turned on the starter switch is on bike is in neutral, and then I hit the electric starter and nothing happens at all. Silent as a hall. Kickstart won't seem to do anything either. What on earth could this be? Also, I noticed what has now been my THIRD loose tube on the bike. I understand there are supposed to be one or two, apparently, but I just noticed a third loose tube. It's the tube that's hooked up to something on the carb right beneath the CHOKE switch. The other end of that tube isn't connected to anything at all -- and this is the first time I've noticed it like that, which seems to mean it must've been hooked up to something at one point. Can anybody help me out? I had serious riding plans this weekend that are going to be turned into serious riding dreams unless I can get this bike running. Could it be the battery? And why would the battery be dead if this is a brand-new bike? And what the heck is that loose tube on the side of the carburetor??, Always try the simple stuff first. No matter what the problem actually is, you may never find it if you don't take care of the basics. For anything to work you must have electricity. Check the fuse. It is in the left tool case. Even if it LOOKS OK replace it with a new one. Then check the battery fluid. Top off if necessary. Put a 2 amp or less charger on it and walk away for 2 or 3 hours. When you come back check as many connectors as you can find around the battery and in the headlight housing. Now try to start the bike. If it now turns over then that problem is fixed and you can go on to things like the spark plug. The hoses on the carb are for vent / over flow. Do NOT hook them up to anything. It will affect carburation. ,,,

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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I have a pocket bike that wont start unless u put gas where the spark plug is and then it will run&idle but once u give it throttle it dies there is no high or low screw there 1 screw &the idle screw


Hi, Anonymous more than likely it's clogged carburetor jets, obstruction in the fuel system or a faulty battery for more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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I have a Suzuki VL 1500. 02 bike has 4K miles on it, I rode it for 20 - maybe 25 mins parked it and came out almost killed battery trying to start it back up, jumped bike and then I hear a loud thawacking...


Hi, Jay you need to take your bike to a professional Suzuki technician and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
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7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. A severely discharged or damaged battery, you need 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
13. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
14. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
15. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections loose, or connected to the wrong cylinders.
16. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
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18. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
19. A stuck bent or burnt valve.
20. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
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22. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2008 Hyosung GT650S I think my side stand relay is causing my bike not to start. The Stator was replaced recently and the battery seems to be holding a charge fine. Sometimes the bike just won't...


What I would suggest then is to bridge the side stand switch. If the switch stays open circuit, it will never start but if you bridge the wires before the switch then the bike should start and have now solved the problem for the interim or you if it does not start you know you have to look elsewhere.

Please get back if you require anything else or give favorable feedback.

Thank you

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I have a shuttering when applying the rear brake. Especially when I get down to speeds of 25 mph to 0. The whole bike shakes. Does not feel like a warped rotor. Bike is brand new it started at around 400...


Check the rear rotor closely. Look for a crack in the rotor. Most likely you won't find one but check just to be safe. More likely, a spray on wax of some kind has gotten on the rotor and transferred to the pads. You may can take the caliper off, remove the pads and sand them down just a bit. Clean the rotor with BrakeKleen on both sides. Inspect the pads of equal wear from front to rear. If the pads seem to be wearing more on one end than the other, you may have a stuck piston on the "thick" end if you have dual or quad piston brakes. Since it's a new bike, I'd take it back to the dealer and have them check it out.

Good Luck
Steve

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My carburetor was leaking fuel, so I went to remove it to repair the o-ring. When I was removing the air filter assembly, I noticed the filter assembly had a sludge building up in it that looked like a mix...


The bike has a tube coming of the air box that you drain as neded. Additionally you have a 9 year bike and these items build up with miles, and yes age. So be sure to inspect and replace these items per the owners manual. No big deal just part of owning a bike.

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02 classic loses all electrical power randomly while riding


I'm going to give you a solution based on personal experience.

I have a 1971 FLH, 1200cc. 16" front wheel, wide glide front end. One main breaker, for all power leading from the main switch on the dash.

I would ride for exactly 8 miles, and the bike would cut off.
Nothing. Nada. Just pull over to the side of the road, and let the circuit breaker cool off. (About the length of one cigarette) Then I'm on my way again for 8 miles.

Tore the seat off, rear wheel out, dash off, headlight nacelle apart, and started checking all wiring.
Found a few breaks in some of the insulation of the wires, found where someone used tape instead of heat shrink tubing. Fixed it. Tried riding again, same thing.

Went through a few more procedures. (I am a Harley mechanic on the older ones)
Finally one day I took the headlight out again, and looked for a short. (I had narrowed it down to something to do with the headlight)

Didn't see anything apparent again. Noticed this time though, that the plastic connector to the headlight, was open on the back.
All three terminals of the headlight, that went into that plastic socket, were exposed at the back.

Having just worked on my Chevy truck, I remembered that the plastic headlight socket, is Enclosed on the back.

Went back to my bike, looked REAL close with a flashlight, and saw a 1/8th inch black mark on the triple tree. The headlight terminals are too far away to create a short?

Removed the plastic headlight socket out of my truck, put it on the Harley.

Has Never quit on me since!

[Hey, we're talking my Harley to a truck! I did get another headlight socket for the truck later!]

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Few questions from a new owner


and I absolutely love it (aside from the broken headlight!) but I was wondering what the deal was with the seeming variations of paint finishes on the Military bikes? Mine and many others that I see have the flat olive drab finish, while there are others that I see with a very glossy finish, and in some cases, pinstripes. What's the deal with the variances -- are the glossy finishes and pinstripes the result of custom modifications? Also -- huge problem while riding. I know she's a brand-new bike (only 25 miles) so there are probably some break-in kinks that need to be ridden out, but this bike dies on me all the time. Unless I'm CONSTANTLY giving the bike throttle, it'll just die. Whenever I go to stop at a stop sign and am in first gear, the moment that throttle is let go, the bike just dies. It seems like I have to constantly pull the throttle on the bike to keep her running, it just does NOT want to idle. Also been noticing some small problems in shifting -- never seems to shift as smooth as other bikes I've been on, and I'm not sure if this is because it's a brand-new bike, or just older technology -- I'm totally new to all of this so I'm really not sure. Any ideas?,The shifting gets smother within 1000 miles, I have 1300 miles and rarely have any false neutrals or as clunky shift problems any more. Like Scotty said give the throttle screw a turn to increase idle( should turn by hand located on the carburetor). I did have a loose carburetor to cylinder head(jug) rubber boot loosen on me and was leaking air making the idle rough on my bike .After I repositioned the boot back on and tighten the clamp at the carburetor I never had the problem return.,,,

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