You must and I cant stress this enough USE a Langstrom seven inch twister ratchet by holding down the gas tank using exrteme pressure pump the forks up and down whilst loosening the triple clamps this will time the squish to the point of exact torsion that the manual calls for. at this point lift the front handle bars very hard in an upward manner to enable the forks to simply slip out of the triple clamps note: put a few towels down so you don't scratch the surface of the inner tubes. Then take a 9 mm gangley wrench and pull the inner sliders out and proceed to step 8 in the manual. simply reverse the process to finish the procedure.
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Re: fork oil change
000 kays should i be doing a fork oil change soon? the manual i have doesnt mention it at all.
is there a noticeable difference is suspension performance after a fork oil change? i have noticed lately that the front end is a bit sloppy so have resorted to add a bit more rebound dampening30000k is a great time to do the fork oil change. the manuals sometime call for it sooner but from my expeience 10 years as a ducati mechanic 30,000 k would be when I would say to do the oil change.
FYI adding damping will heat the oil more and cause it to fail sooner, with the mileage it is probably time anyway.,,,
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I'm sorry but I don't have the specs on the quantity and type of fork oil for your year and model bike. I work on the older bikes that the dealers will no longer service. But, I can describe the difference between the "wet" and "dry" conditions of the fork assembly. If you take the front forks apart, clean them out, and put them back together with no oil in them, they are considered "dry". For a simple drain and refill type oil change on them where you don't get all the oil out of them, they are considered "wet". I hope this helps, You can call you local dealer's service department and they should tell you the quantity and viscosity of the oil that goes in the front forks on your machine. They'll tell you something like 6 ounces of "Type E" oil, for example. Harley-Davidson uses these types of specs to describe their oils. If you go to a website for fork oil, like PJ1, they may give a cross reference or equivalency chart for converting H-D "Type E" to their oil. I think that would be their 30 weight oil. If the front end seems too "stiff" with 30 weight, you can drop down to 20 weight. I think Honda makes a 25 weight but not sure. Your Harley won't mind the Honda oil. BG.
To change the fork oil, look down on the lower part of each fork leg just above the axle on the backside of each leg and you'll find an Allen plug or small screw. Take this screw out, hold the front brake and push down on the front forks. The fork oil will come out of the tube. Do both sides at the same time. Once you get the oil out of them, reinstall the drain plug. Then, take the large hex cap on ONE TUBE AT THE TIME and pour the correct amount of the correct fork oil into each tube. There is a specific amount of oil that must be poured into each leg. Since you simply drained your forks instead of disassembling them, you should use what is known as the "Wet" quantity of oil. I'm pretty sure your bike takes 9.0 ounces of oil in each leg. Call your local dealer and they'll tell you how much oil to put in. Your bike came from the factory with "Type E" oil in the forks. The viscosity of the oil determines the dampening effect of the forks. Heavier oil will stiffen the front forks, a lighter viscosity of oil will make the front end softer. You can check the Internet for fork oils and they should give you a comparison of what weight oil is equivalent to "Type E" oil. I think PJ 1's 30 weight oil is the same as type E Harley oil. Use only "fork oil" in your front forks as it has special "anti-foaming" agents in it. If the oil foams up, you'll lose the dampening effect in your forks.
The "clicking" noise you are hearing when you make a "hard stop", is the springs inside the fork compressing. This is not unusual. You can change your fork oil viscosity to stiffen the forks but they may be too stiff once you've done it, The only way to tell is try it.
There is a small screw or bolt on the down low on the fork lower slider. Take this screw out and work the front end up and down, The fork oil will be pumped out the front end. This makes a terrible mess so don't do it in your living room.
Once you have the oil out of the front end, it's best to lift the bike off the ground. Remove the top cap from each tube and refill the fork tubes with the proper amount of oil for a "wet" oil change. Sorry but I don't have that information but it will be somewhere around 10.2 ounces. Check to make sure for your year model. I put 30 wt. fork oil in my FXDWG and the forks are a bit stiff but that's how I like them. Try it and if it's too stiff, you'll just have to change it back to say 20wt or maybe Honda might have a 25 wt. oil. Do one side of the forks at a time.
Remove the small plugs at the bottom of each fork slider and drain the forks. Do this by working the forks up and down until the forks are empty. Then, refill the forks with the proper amount of oil. Since you are not disassembling the forks and cleaning them out, you should use the "wet" measure of oil instead of the "dry" measurement.
Since you didn't tell me exactly what year model 883 you have, if the fork tubes are 39mm tubes (measure the top tube) use the following amount of oil. I use 30 wt. fork oil. If this is too stiff, drop down to 20 weight.
883 Hugger --- 10.7 ounces
all others --- 9.0 ounces
That's the only ones I have information for at this time.
This is an old thread but just in case you haven't gotten the problem fixed, you need to change the fork oil in your forks. The main reason is to make sure you've got the correct amount in them.
If after changing the oil they're still too spongy, you need to change the oil to a heavier weight oil. Use 30 weight "FORK OIL". Do not use any other type of oil as it may foam. Use fork oil only and in the correct amount. Your owner's manual should tell you how much oil to add.
To drain the oil, there is a plug down near the axle on each fork slider. At the top triple trees, there is a large cap on each fork tube. Take this out and add the proper amount of the proper weight oil. Only do one tube at a time. You may have to get the weight of the bike off the front end.
How long has it been since you've changed your fork oil? How long has it been since you've changed your fork seals?
If you haven't changed your seals in over 5 years, get your seals changed. Major surgery? Nah... Fork seals is a common procedure, A real good repair shop should be able to do in within the 1 to 2 hour range, depending on the condition of your bike. Will you die? Only God knows when you're time is up.