Question about 2002 Ducati Monster 900 i.e.

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Regulator rectifier Hey all. I have an '01 M900Si.e. with a little electrical trouble. Seems my battery continues to eat it. Now

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I've used the search function with several variables with no concrete success and my Haynes manual only covers the single-phase regulator rectifiers. Here's what I got: -Charge the battery wait 30 minutes after disconnecting and it shows good volts. -Disconnect the ground (-) terminal and check the draw with all systems off 0.6mA. That's a bit higher than I'd like but not horrible. Disconnecting the ECU fuse it drops to nil. -Reconnect and run the engine at idle the volts across the battery show right about 12. -Increase RPM to 3000 and the volts steady a bit but still remain at 12. Everyone seems to think that stators rarely fail on these machines, but I'd like to be certain before I drop $80 or more on the regulator/rectifier. Anybody out there got a good idea?,Battery voltage at the battery should stabilize at aroun 14V, not 12V. The battery should be at about 12.5 when left overnight. My ST2 will hit 14V at 2k RPM with no lights, 3lk with low beams, 4k lo+hi.,,,

Posted on Nov 10, 2008


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1993 Vmax. Why is regulator/rectifier overheating?

You are not going to like this answer but here goes. All Motorcycles, mopeds, scooters, quads, etc, that have have a stator to regulator/rectifier to battery generating system all have the same design flaw. They all have lousey electrical connectors. Heres what happens: the stator produces 204-220 volt ac current. The same thing that will run an electric dryer in your home. It's a lot of power. That power gets changed to dc current by the recifier and converted into about 15 volts by the regulator in the same unit. That's a lot of heat energy. If at any time the electrical connections become compromised by vibration, oxidation, dampness, salt, or will see the wires fry. It's an over load...not a short. Power sports shops are well aware of this and are happy to charge you list price to replace the entire system for several hundred dollars. Usually between $800-$1000. You can get after market sets of the component parts and do it yourself and that's the only way I know of to avoid the cost & it still ain't cheap. Many moto-X riders replace the connectors with automotive plugs that seal out water, dust, etc with a recessed plug with a silicon gasket and seal it with dielectric grease to prevent oxidation. Like the plugs on a car's O2 sensors. Hope this has been helpful, Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

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The bike probably has a faulty charging system. Need to check regulator/rectifier for proper operation as well as the stator's output voltage on all 3 phases. They usually blow out the regulator though.

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Hi, Kevin_ob and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery must have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
2. Faulty alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Faulty main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Faulty system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Faulty ignition coil, ignition/electronic module.
7. Faulty CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Faulty neutral, side stand or clutch lever safety switch.
10. Fuel tank empty
11. Fuel tank contaminated with ethanol sludge.
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14. Faulty fuel pump.
15. Faulty pressure regulator.
16. Faulty or clogged fuel injectors.
17. Lean angle switch is faulty or needs adjustment.
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2003 Ultra Classic fuel injected model. Generally runs well, but at times (seems when it's been run hard for an hour at least) I see the volts go way up around 16 or 17; it normally reads 14.5 volts Soon...

Your Voltage should never get that high. Anything over 15volts is bad news. Try Testing your Regulator. First do a Bleed Test.
Be sure regulator is connected to battery. Unplug the stator connector.
Use a trouble light and clip it to a good ground and the other to the regulator pins, one at a
time. If light comes on regulator is bad.

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2002 honda 1100cc shadow sabre What is the purpuse of the rectifier? Bike runs great for thirty miles on charged battery then quits. While running disc pos. lea to battery an bike quits. should it still...

On motorcycles the regulator/rectifier are usually one unit. The voltage regulator takes the juice coming from the alternator and converts it , usually from a higher voltage, to 12 volts. The rectifier takes any extra power left over from the conversion and dissipates it in the form of heat. Honda motorcycles draw power from the battery to run everything on the motorcycle. When you disconnect the battery it is like turning off the key. If your battery is not charging check the alternator first. Find the plug coming out of the engine with three yellow wires. You should have continuity between any combination of these three wires. You should have no continuity between any of these three wires and ground. If If you get no continuity between any of the yellow wires or you get continuity between a yellow wire and ground , you need a new alternator. If the alternator checks good and the battery passes a load test, then you probably need a new regulator/rectifier.

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Battery went flat even after riding for hours. showing 12.7 volts. When ran engine with revs it measured 12 .22. Think it must be rectifier. What should be output with engine running on 2001 softail duce

Proper battery charging will show ~13.5 to 14.5 volts at the battery terminals. Check for continuity through the alternator windings, check each diode in the rectifier stack and look for a voltage regulator which may be defective.

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Charging problems on my 1983 Suzuki GR650 tempter

The only easy way is for you to buy the service manual - it is pretty hard to tell you how to service your regulator if you don't know what it is...
And it is - or at least something in the charging circuit.
Early Suzukis had consistent charging problems, resulting in run-down batteries, short battery life, hard starting and frequent stator and regulator/rectifier replacement. Some of the problem is due to poor quantity or corroded electrical connectors, some to a poor ground to the regulator/rectifier and some just poor quality components or design. Keeping the connectors on the three stator wires clean and by running a heavy ground wire directly from the negative terminal of the battery to the regulator/rectifier mounting bolt will help.
You can download the GR650 manual here - just look for the tiny "Save file to your PC: click here" at the bottom right of the page.

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1992 vfr 400 not starting

I have referred to this website on more than one occasion and found it useful. This guy had to replace his regulator and tells you how to check yours and the options available when replacing it. They have a tendency to overheat as they don'y have cooling fins. You are best to replace it with an aftermarket one with fins so it doesn't go again.

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1 Answer

2005 Hartford HD-125S electrics not working

Hi, Ratbag1488 before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test because your battery may have 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage and must be replaced AGM types more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
5. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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