Subframe cockeyed Someone pointed this out to me before

perhaps talking to a dealers service manager will get you the answers you require .

your sub frame is holding the engine in place and if its rusted to a state where the structure is seriously weakened.
at this point garage will not let you or other road user face risk

It'll depend a bit on the root of the problem.
You can get double vision from properly aligned binoculars if the optics are too far apart or too close, relative to the spacing of your eyes. you'll need to bend them at the central hinge to make sure that both eyes are centered on the input lenses.

If you're still getting the migraine-inducing double image, they probably got dropped at some point. This can be a wide range of difficulty to fix. Here's what I've done in some past cases with flea market binocs that I bought cheap due to the skewed alignment.

For many binocs, the upper (eyeball end) and/or lower (field end) are screwed to the central body of the binocs, where all the folding optics are to widen the lenses from your eye spacing. If they have been dropped, (or disassembled and put back together sloppy), then they may be cockeyed at one of these joins. Look at each seam to the central body and see if any of them have a gap, especially one that is larger on one side than another. You can then apply firm un-screwing twist and see if it will unscrew. if it will, and before you unscrew it all the way, wash your hands and clear a clean surface to work on. Unscrew the segment, inspect the threads for crud that might have got in while cockeyed. Then visually square up the component and gently screw it back in. if it was mis-assembled, the threads may be a bit gummed, and you'll have to be patient to keep the optic square, and back off and start again if it tries to drag over to cockeyed threading. Once it's square, gently working the thread back into place by turning back and forth a half turn back, 3/4 forward, half back, 3/4 forward, can help the thread recuperate. Eventually, it should screw all the way in, firmly, and be square. No more double vision.

For some models, like my Nikon fixed pocket binocs, there's no zoom and just a focus knob. On my brothers pair, it got cockeyed. In that case, I gently unscrewed the locking rings for the glass on the eyeball side. One of them was loose and the lens was a bit cockeyed. In that case, I removed, it (wearing nitrile gloves), cleaned it with eyeglasses cleaning solution and a microfiber cloth, put it back in, screwed the ring in firmly,and it was good to go.

Bottom line, if you have some basic DIY skills, unscrewing the entry optics, or the optics sections, isn't too big a deal. Just be mindful not to let dust (or worse) get inside while you have things open. You can get a lot of fix just from that much.

Good Luck!

HI,SAFE PLACE TO PUT JACK ,IS ON THE EDGE OF SUBFRAME ,WHERE IT BOLTS TO BODY,

The subframe is fine. It must be a solid not moving part of subframe.

The Subframe is a metal frame like enclosure that surrounds the Engine /Transmission. The Engine/ Trans drops into the Subframe and in turn is bolted to it via Engine Mounts and the Subframe is in turn bolted to the uni-body of your car via Subframe Mounts.

There is NO open recall on the Santa Fe, However, there is one on the 1999-2004 SONATA (EF) and 2001-2004 XG300/XG350 (XG) vehicles that are registered and operated in specified “salt belt” states may exhibit corrosion damage to the subframe assembly. If specified levels of corrosion damage have occurred as described in this bulletin, replace the front subframe with a new subframe that incorporates additional holes in the upper and lower panels. If a front subframe does not require replacement, add drainage holes and treat the subframe with rust-proofing material.

The racks are a bit tough on these cars since theyre on the subframe. a lot of extensions and a swivel will help it come off the subframe but hate to break it to you : you will need to drop the entire subframe to pull off the steering rack. The subframe holds the motor and suspension. Its odd though that you need to remove the rack. Perhaps the rack isnt an issue. Can you post up what your issue is?

I am assuming you mean the rear ones! you neeed to jack up and support the car, as you will be moving the rear subframe support the car on the forward end of the large arms that go to the floor (it is allways solid there) depending on the make and condition of the exhaust you might get away without disconnecting too much of it. support the subframe centrally with a jack, unbolt the 4 nuts and bolts that hold the mount to the subframe, lower the subframe enough to unbolt and change the rubber mounts, if the exhaust or brake flexy stop it dropping enough to change the mounts disconnect them, refit and tighten.

hi, is this front or rear anti-rollbar? Front ones are a right pain, you have to drop the front subframe for access. If you don't have a wheelfree ramp then it's not a job for the faint hearted! You also need to disconnect the steering column to allow the subframe to drop far enough to get at the bolts that secure the collars over the bushes. Before you disconnect the steering column, point the wheels straight ahead and remove the key so that the steering lock stops the steering wheel turning, this is to prevent damage to the contact reel for the air bag, which can be damaged if the steering is turned too far beyond normal rotation!