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Re: upgrading stock gauges
What is necessary to upgrade my stock '93 900ss/sp gauge setup to any of the newer clusters? Let's start with going to the 3 pod cluster from an '01 and head on up to the Mac Daddy from a 1098 (if its possible).well first off the rev counter is electric not cable like the carbied models also you will have to re-calibrate your speedo as the drive gear is different in both models, physical (larger axle in the 98+ models) aswell as reading. the only gauge you can use will be the oil temp,,,
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Changing to a K&N air filter changes the air/fuel mixture for your bike, and you're probably hitting an overly lean spot before things start to even out. For bikes still running carburetors, which I think you have, you can compensate for this by changing to a slightly larger idle jet. Your main jet is probably fine (it's kicking in after the lag); it's the crossover from idle to main jet that's causing the flat spot.
Talk to your dealership parts counter to get recommendations about jet settings. They may suggest, for example, to keep your existing idle jet and go with a different main jet. Expect to try a couple different setups to find one that works best for your bike and your riding style. I would highly recommend keeping your original jets, though, in case you ever go back to the stock air box.
My stock '90 DR650RS needs to be started with a set procedure, generally NO THROTTLE when kicking over. I had same issue as you but reset air screw at exactly one and a half turns out and idle (warm) at 1200 revs.
Cold start: Hold de-comp on and kick over with 1/4 throttle, release throttle, pull choke and kick over once with de-comp still on. Then, turn ignition on, NO throttle, no choke, apply de-comp and kick over...let idle for about 10 seconds before grabbing throttle.
When hot: just kick over with hand well clear of throttle. (I use the handlebar cross brace for support)
This took me ages to work out but has been foolproof ever since, even after a spill in the dirt or a sudden stall in traffic.
I use premium Un-leaded fuel and stock NGK plugs with stock Mikuni carb and jets. I use two different exhausts (stock twin muffler and an alloy CZR single pot) and starting is identical procedure for both. (I only change the jets with exhausts)
The butterfly that attaches to that arm requires a cable that is operated by a servo. Some bikes don't need it if they told the ECM to ignore it. You should have gotten the bike tuned to remove the POPPING that was caused by the race can. The race can sounds good and gives the bike a nice kick in the HP dept. The oil light could be a loose connection or it could be the engine having a oil issue - only way to check is to put a oil gauge on there and see for yourself.
Not being very familiar with the later models, I can tell you that if the gauge still sits in the left tank filler bung, it's just held in by a rubber right. Carefully rock the gauge side to side while lifiting up on it. It will come out. Be careful as the wires that connect it to the sending unit are short and you don't want to damage them. Your new digital unit should use the original tank sensor. Good Luck!
As a fellow motorcyclist let me say welcome, and here are some tips for you. Get a Clymer's or Haynes manual for your bike. The diagrams and instructions will show you how to do simple maintenance yourself, saving you money and teaching you a lot about your bike. Second, don't worry about performance upgrades. Your motorcycle even if completely stock will out accelerate any four wheeler you have ever driven and has far more capability than you do as a new rider. Just ride it, get used to it and figure out what kind of riding you enjoy. A few months or a year from now if you get on it every time and think, "Gee, I sure wish I had another 30 hp," then you are probably ready to get a faster bike. Battery voltmeter to monitor the charging system is a cheap option, as is oil temp gauge but you most likely will not need either one. Don't worry about Stage I tuning, the bike will run fine with stock or stage one and be more driveable stock. Just ride it and find some riding buddies, bike nights in your area, join the american motorcyclist association or the harley owners group. Other riders are a great resource.
the stock coil is fine for stage 1 motors, once you go cams and high compression then you start to need better voltage and faster generation of spark.
Using a performance coil on a stock bike will just cost you in plugs as you also need to upgrade your plugs to deal with the higher loads, the stock plug will cope it will just erode the electrode faster.
on my metric motor i was going thru plugs every service (3000miles) and there were scrap not even good enough for running the lawn mower
i was running Dyna Micro coils, 10mm thundervolt 50 leads, and either split fire (lasted 6000miles) or autolite plugs (3500miles)
what is necessary to upgrade my stock '93 900ss/sp gauge setup to any of the newer clusters? Let's start with going to the 3 pod cluster from an '01 and head on up to the Mac Daddy from a 1098 (if its possible).well first off the rev counter is electric not cable like the carbied models also you will have to re-calibrate your speedo as the drive gear is different in both models, physical (larger axle in the 98+ models) aswell as reading. the only gauge you can use will be the oil temp,,,
yes the 8 is the hotter plug just for giggles how do you know that it's running lean? have you had someone put it to the 4or5 gas analyzer, NOT A DYNOJET DYNO? it's the only way to know for sure and by how much. the reason i say not the dyno-jet is because of the fact that it uses a wide band 02 sensor which in this case only gives a limited amount of info versus the 4gas. some people have said the hotter plugs has run better for them, but i can'tconfirm. i can confirm that i hadn't noticed much difference between the Iridium plugs and the stock. no improvement on the dyno and nothing really noticeable anywhere else. for the price of stock NGK's thats what i would stay with.