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Re: Adjustment for the clatch
Hi I understood the correct adjustment for the clutch is as follows-slacken off the adjustment at the handle bars first then remove the plastic plug slacken the locknut and screw the screw in until contact is made then back off the screw 1/8 of a turn (what the ccm handbook says) the rotax engine manual says 3/4 of a turn but I think that is excessive. Then using the box spanner supplied in the ccm toolkit, carefully tighten the locknut ensuring the screw does not move with a screw driver. Re-adjust at the handlebar(2-3mm of slack). Also ensure there is the correct amount of oil, I checked mine cold after an oil change and I had way too much causing the clutch to drag when warming up. The clutch will tend to slip if the adjustment screw is in too far and there is no free play at the lever. Steve.,,,
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you have to adjust the clutch cable to ensure there is no slack in the inner cable so that the tension is restored?? Just like a car's clutch cable. The method of adjustment is what will take some working out .
The adjustment may include the correct positioning of the cable in brackets. adjustments at the ends or such like.
Sorry if that is not very specific but I work on cars and bicycles
The cable may be binding or the clutch adjustments may be wrong; there is normally two adjustments that have to be made if it is a cable style clutch.
1. the first adjustment will be on the engine near the clutch push rod and normally has a screw and locknut that is to be adjusted. Turn the handlebar adjustment first all the way in so that the cable has a lot of slack in it. Untighten the lock nut from the lower engine adjustment screw so that it does not interfere with the adjustment screw moving. Turn the screw inward until a very light tension is felt on the screw, then back it out about an 1/8 inch or so. tighten the lock nut back down and see if the locknut and screw together will rotate about 5-10 degrees when turned (this adjustment must not be so tight that it can not rotate when checked or it could cause clutch slipping so make sure that the adjustment screw rotates some after the locknut is tightened.
2. The final clutch adjustment is made at the handlebar. Turn the adjustment screw on the handlebar out until the clutch lever has about 1/8 inch of movement (before any tension is felt on the clutch lever) when the clutch lever is first being squeezed. Do not make the 2nd adjustment without any slack in the cable or the clutch may also slip.
If this is a hydraulic clutch and it slips at high rpm, the clutches could be getting hot, the springs are wrong for the clutch, or the clutch and steel fibers have the wrong installed height for the clutch hub (check the original clutch fibers and steels against the new ones installed and see that they are the same thickness or look up that fiber/steel thickness in a service manual).
I suggest to open the bleeder screw and try to press the pedal if you can press the pedal, most likely the problem is the clutch pressure plate and you have to take off the transmission for proper investigation.
But if the bleeder screw is open and the pedal stlil can't press then the problem could be the clutch master cylinder, clogged up line or the clutch sleeve cylinder.
Turn the clutch adjustment bolt towards the clutch-lever surface all the way in-not too tight. Feel the lever pressure as crisp, engage the first gear, and see if the bike moves when you engage; stops when you dis-engage. Give the adjustment-bolt a couple outward turns, and see. Repeat procedure as necessary.
The only adjustment you'll probably need is to get the air out of the clutch line. Loosen the bleeder screw, and put a two or three foot vacuum line on it. Submerse the other end of the line in a bottle of brake fluid. Pump the clutch untill no more bubbles are coming out of the hose into the bottle. Be sure to keep the reservoir topped up while you do this. Hold the clutch down, and tighten the bleeder screw. Some hydraulic clutches do have an adjustment on the rod that goes from the slave cyllinder to the pressure plate. I'm not sure about yours. If there is a nut on the rod, you can adjust it somewhat. You want it set so that there is just a little bit of play between the rod and the pressure plate where the rod goes. If none of this helps, you mayneed to replace the slave cyllinder.
Disconnect the clutch cable at the case then see if the there is any resistance in the clutch lever in-out movement. When the tank was remounted the cable may have gotten pinched or moved out of proper routing. If I understand correctly, prior to the frame painting the clutch was okay, but after the paint it was not, and the left and right side cases and clutch were not touched. Obviously you used the wrong brand of paint. The clutch would have been fine if you had used Krylon brand paint. Post a comment and let me know what you find.
I dont have a manual for that bike, but i think there is an internal clutch adjustment that may help. if not properly set, the clutch will slip under a heavy load. if it does have the adjustment, it will be on one side of the engine and it should look like a 10 or 12mm nut with a set screw. loosen the nut and adjust the set screw one way or the other until there is NO tension on the screw. tighten the nut and then re-adjust your clutch lever for proper free play. if that dont work, install high performace clutch plates. again, im not certain that bike has the internal adjustment. take a look. hope this helps...
From your description it appears that you have tried tension settings on the upper tension control adjustment knob without success.
Check that the bobin tension is adjusted correctly by taking out the bobin complete with the spool.
Pull the cotton thread and it should be a smooth light pressure if the tension is correct. If it is tight to pull or pulls freely then adjust the tension screw which is found on the outside of the bobbin. The screw is very small and requires a minature size screwdriver. The adjustment will only be a slight turn of the screw one way or the other to obtain the correct tension(depending if it was loose or tight).
Once this is set reinstall the bobin and tread up the machine, hopefully with the upper tension set at approx."2" the machine will sew correctly.
This is an answer to another person with a similar complaint. Try the suggestion below, it may fix the problem.
From your description it appears that you have tried tension settings on the upper tension control adjustment knob without success. Check that the bobin tension is adjusted correctly by taking out the bobin complete with the spool. Pull the cotton thread and it should be a smooth light pressure if the tension is correct. If it is tight to pull or pulls freely then adjust the tension screw which is found on the outside of the bobbin. The screw is very small and requires a minature size screwdriver. The adjustment will only be a slight turn of the screw one way or the other to obtain the correct tension(depending if it was loose or tight). Once this is set reinstall the bobin and tread up the machine, hopefully with the upper tension set at approx."2" the machine will sew correctly.