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Re: Adjustment for the clatch
Hi I understood the correct adjustment for the clutch is as follows-slacken off the adjustment at the handle bars first then remove the plastic plug slacken the locknut and screw the screw in until contact is made then back off the screw 1/8 of a turn (what the ccm handbook says) the rotax engine manual says 3/4 of a turn but I think that is excessive. Then using the box spanner supplied in the ccm toolkit, carefully tighten the locknut ensuring the screw does not move with a screw driver. Re-adjust at the handlebar(2-3mm of slack). Also ensure there is the correct amount of oil, I checked mine cold after an oil change and I had way too much causing the clutch to drag when warming up. The clutch will tend to slip if the adjustment screw is in too far and there is no free play at the lever. Steve.,,,
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First, make sure the clutch is adjusted correctly..This video is a basic tutorial.. use it for a guide BUT DO the steps as I TELL YOU..
1. Loose the cable adjuster at the handle bar.. run the adjuster in - (give it as much slack as you can)
2. The clutch actuator lever on the engine case should be able to move about 8mm (.325") before it starts to disengage (gets hard to move)..
3. Adjust the cable at the bottom adjustment to take up any slack at this point.. ..you MIGHT/should be able to feel some (NOT FULL TENSION) clutch disengagement in the handle bar (clutch) lever at this point.. IF YOU CAN'T - tighten the cable at the bottom adjustment ONE round at a time until you can feel (a small amount) tension and have at least/about 12mm (.48") max. of play in the lever (BETWEEN THE LEVER AND THE MOUNT when YOU START TO FEEL TENSION... - NOW - in the clutch lever (handle bar).. when you can feel tension in the lever... >> you should start adjusting the lever to have (at least) approximately 1/8" - (3mm) of play (gap) between the lever and mount.. when you have this set correctly, the clutch adjustment question is eliminated. If the adjustment has not helped and you had to do A LOT of adjusting. you need to replace the clutch cable.. and do this adjustment process again. NOW adjustment is NOT part of your problem. If this fixes your problem GREAT!!
.. If not.. now.. we have to move internally..The next issue will be grooves worn into the arms of the clutch basket be the fiber clutch plate ears..(see picture) (the ones that keep the plates stationary when you shift to help disengage the clutch). Also check the actuator arm (see picture below) for wear..
Ok.. if you have gotten this far and everything seems good, reinstall AFTER YOU HAVE METICULOUSLY CLEANED THE BASKET!! The clutch should be working now.
Congrats!! If you need professional port work contact me.. Suzuki RM80 250 89 95
you have to adjust the clutch cable to ensure there is no slack in the inner cable so that the tension is restored?? Just like a car's clutch cable. The method of adjustment is what will take some working out .
The adjustment may include the correct positioning of the cable in brackets. adjustments at the ends or such like.
Sorry if that is not very specific but I work on cars and bicycles
Hi, Michael a proper clutch adjustment for big twins starts by squirting some silicone spray or Brake Kleen into the top of the rubber boot on the clutch cable and sliding it back exposing the cable adjuster. Loosen the jam nut and turn the adjusting screw all the way in so your clutch lever has excessive slop. Remove the Derby cover, loosen the jam nut on the clutch pack adjuster screw and screw it in until light resistance is felt against the clutch rod then back the adjusting screw out 3/4 of a turn and tighten the jam nut.
Check primary fluid level and replace Derby cover unless you are running an early model "Dry Clutch" leave the Derby cover off. Go back to the clutch cable adjuster and back it out until there is 1/8" free play between the clutch lever and the bracket perch. This is correctly accomplished by pulling the clutch cable end outward with your right hand and pulling the clutch lever in with your left hand and modest pressure on both hands to eyeball the free play. Tighten cable adjuster jam nut and slide rubber boot back to its original position.
On Dry Clutch Models you need to square the pressure plate by adjusting the 3 stud nuts on the outside of the pressure plate so that when the clutch lever is pulled in the pressure plate shoots "STRAIGHT" out and disengages evenly.
On Sportster models, the procedure is the same except the clutch cable adjuster screws directly into the primary cover with a jam nut. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at firstname.lastname@example.org. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Harley ShovelHead Clutch adjustment Hunting Harley 4 speed clutch assembly https://www.carlsalter.com/pdfs/Harley-davidson-1978-80%20FL_FX%20Service%20manual.pdf http://www.classiccycles.org/media//DIR_1653304/DIR_1679204/DIR_1705456/d28e7d12b0a2c4d3ffff81ebffffe417.pdf http://www.harley-davidson.com/content/h-d/en_US/home/owners/maintain-your-bike/owners-manual.html Instant Tech Relief To speak to me personally absolutely "FREE"
The cable may be binding or the clutch adjustments may be wrong; there is normally two adjustments that have to be made if it is a cable style clutch.
1. the first adjustment will be on the engine near the clutch push rod and normally has a screw and locknut that is to be adjusted. Turn the handlebar adjustment first all the way in so that the cable has a lot of slack in it. Untighten the lock nut from the lower engine adjustment screw so that it does not interfere with the adjustment screw moving. Turn the screw inward until a very light tension is felt on the screw, then back it out about an 1/8 inch or so. tighten the lock nut back down and see if the locknut and screw together will rotate about 5-10 degrees when turned (this adjustment must not be so tight that it can not rotate when checked or it could cause clutch slipping so make sure that the adjustment screw rotates some after the locknut is tightened.
2. The final clutch adjustment is made at the handlebar. Turn the adjustment screw on the handlebar out until the clutch lever has about 1/8 inch of movement (before any tension is felt on the clutch lever) when the clutch lever is first being squeezed. Do not make the 2nd adjustment without any slack in the cable or the clutch may also slip.
If this is a hydraulic clutch and it slips at high rpm, the clutches could be getting hot, the springs are wrong for the clutch, or the clutch and steel fibers have the wrong installed height for the clutch hub (check the original clutch fibers and steels against the new ones installed and see that they are the same thickness or look up that fiber/steel thickness in a service manual).
I suggest to open the bleeder screw and try to press the pedal if you can press the pedal, most likely the problem is the clutch pressure plate and you have to take off the transmission for proper investigation.
But if the bleeder screw is open and the pedal stlil can't press then the problem could be the clutch master cylinder, clogged up line or the clutch sleeve cylinder.
Turn the clutch adjustment bolt towards the clutch-lever surface all the way in-not too tight. Feel the lever pressure as crisp, engage the first gear, and see if the bike moves when you engage; stops when you dis-engage. Give the adjustment-bolt a couple outward turns, and see. Repeat procedure as necessary.
Disconnect the clutch cable at the case then see if the there is any resistance in the clutch lever in-out movement. When the tank was remounted the cable may have gotten pinched or moved out of proper routing. If I understand correctly, prior to the frame painting the clutch was okay, but after the paint it was not, and the left and right side cases and clutch were not touched. Obviously you used the wrong brand of paint. The clutch would have been fine if you had used Krylon brand paint. Post a comment and let me know what you find.
I dont have a manual for that bike, but i think there is an internal clutch adjustment that may help. if not properly set, the clutch will slip under a heavy load. if it does have the adjustment, it will be on one side of the engine and it should look like a 10 or 12mm nut with a set screw. loosen the nut and adjust the set screw one way or the other until there is NO tension on the screw. tighten the nut and then re-adjust your clutch lever for proper free play. if that dont work, install high performace clutch plates. again, im not certain that bike has the internal adjustment. take a look. hope this helps...
From your description it appears that you have tried tension settings on the upper tension control adjustment knob without success.
Check that the bobin tension is adjusted correctly by taking out the bobin complete with the spool.
Pull the cotton thread and it should be a smooth light pressure if the tension is correct. If it is tight to pull or pulls freely then adjust the tension screw which is found on the outside of the bobbin. The screw is very small and requires a minature size screwdriver. The adjustment will only be a slight turn of the screw one way or the other to obtain the correct tension(depending if it was loose or tight).
Once this is set reinstall the bobin and tread up the machine, hopefully with the upper tension set at approx."2" the machine will sew correctly.
This is an answer to another person with a similar complaint. Try the suggestion below, it may fix the problem.
From your description it appears that you have tried tension settings on the upper tension control adjustment knob without success. Check that the bobin tension is adjusted correctly by taking out the bobin complete with the spool. Pull the cotton thread and it should be a smooth light pressure if the tension is correct. If it is tight to pull or pulls freely then adjust the tension screw which is found on the outside of the bobbin. The screw is very small and requires a minature size screwdriver. The adjustment will only be a slight turn of the screw one way or the other to obtain the correct tension(depending if it was loose or tight). Once this is set reinstall the bobin and tread up the machine, hopefully with the upper tension set at approx."2" the machine will sew correctly.