I was riding today and my amber engine lamp came on three tim? Every time that i noticed it can on i was revved around 5.5 grand to rev limiter 7.2. I even slowed down in a strait to around 30mph held the clutch in revved it to about 6 grand and the lamp came on. Oh and each time it stayed on for 5-10 seconds. I never held it at those rpms to see if it would stay on while in the higher range
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Re: Check engine lamp
I always shifted or eased up. Any ideas or should i just set up and apointment? And would the the dealer see it for free since its under warranty?Easiest thing to do first is check the battery terminals' you're sitting on them so when they come loose you're weight dislodges them. Thats what happened to me anyways.,
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I am wondering if you have a broken spring on the carburetor. There are springs that hook the linkage up to the lever you use to speed the engine up, Also on the carburetor its self. If a spring is broken the engine may rev out of control and yes it has to be repaired to start don't try to run before repairing or you will blow it up.
Service engine soon lamp and check engine lamp have a 16 pin connector under dash in drivers area most parts store can retrieve codes for you for free these codes are in several forms P series are powertrain codes (engine,transmission) B series codes are Body codes ( A/C,electrical windows mirrors) C series are Chassis codes (abs,transfer case, air ride) U series codes are Communication codes between all modules that need to share information..
Tim, I would look at three main things first. Compression, spark and fuel. Once in awhile us mechanics can get a "hunch" of what's wrong but overlook some common problems. I would invest in a compression tester and a spark tester. Both are fairly cheap and available at any parts store. Simply unscrew spark plug and srew in compression tester and turn starter over. Observe the reading, do this for all cylinders. Then put plugs back in and install spark tester. Turn starter over and observe spark. If you can get your bike started again, check compresiion and spark when your unit fails. This should put you in the right direction. Hope this helps!
do a computer self test. The answers will help with the diagnosis.
insert key in ignition. turn key as follows;off-on, off-on, off-on. ("on" is when the dash lights come on and "off" is one click back) Codes will either display on the odometer or blink out on the check engine light in pairs of numbers, 5-5 being the end of the test. write down the numbers and report back with findings.
The flashing of the check engine lights means the problem is serious.
It sounds like the engine has a bad vacuum leak, they are very problematic for a leaking intake gasket. This usually would be accompanied with coolant loss, but not always. Other causes are loose air plentum snorkel (if air filter recently replaced) or a leaking vacuum hose. It could also be a sign of a computer problem starting. It would be best to have a technician or parts retailer scan it for you to narrow the problem down. The clunk noise maybe unrelated or possibly engine noise(like an intake issue), check the oil and coolant levels first.
If the car rev'd up but did not speed up at the same time the clutch is starting to slip. Check the adjustment and recheck driving. When the clutch starts to wear this is how they act, only most people ignore whats happening and keep driving till adjustments won't fix it and the clutch has to be replaced. Have adjustment checked and keep an eye on it and hopefullty you won't need a clutch yet.
You don't say what year your bike is, but I know a lot of guys with newer sporsters 06 and up have had similar complaints. The problem usually goes away once every thing drys out. You might want to try putting a little dialitic grease on the fuses and buses.
1. (Lamp may light and go out) suspect bad lamp part # 915P020010 2. Check for 12-volts DC at J-9 connector pin 4 on the Engine Driver PCB, if missing check for an open F9A09 on the Power PCB, if it is open replace F9A09 part # 283P127060 and the Light Engine part # 939P977010 3. (Lamp may light and go out) Check for 5-volts DC at J-9 connector pin 1 and 2 on the Engine Driver PCB if low or missing check C9A37 and C9A38 both 3300 UFD 10 V on the Power PCB (part # 930B921002) 4. At power on the lamp turns on and off three times and then the unit shuts down with a red lamp LED (lamp error). Replace the Light Engine part # 939P977010 5. Lamp enable line at J14 pin 6 does not switch to 5 volts after turn on, 12 and 5 volt supplies are good. Suspect the Light Engine part # 939P977010 6. Lamp enable line at connector J14 pin 6 on the Engine Driver PCB switches to 5 volts after turn on and does go to 0-volts (low) after 5 seconds, 12 and 5 volt supplies are good. Suspect the Lamp Power PCB (ballast) part # 939P978010 7. Lamp enable line at connector J14 pin 6 on the Engine Driver PCB switches to 5 volts after turn on but does not go back to 0-volts (low) after 5 seconds, 12 and 5 volt supplies are good. Suspect the Light Engine part # 939P977010 Hope this helps!