This bike has a type C one way clutch. Do any of you know which way the inner cluth sprag is supposed to rotate? i.e clockwise or counter clockwise? The clutch was redone by the person I bought the bike off
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Some bikes have starter motors with built in bendix clutches, others have direct drive starters with sprag clutches attached to the flywheel. Either way, the starter clutch is slipping and will need to be replaced.
If the starter is spinning but the engine is not cranking, the sprag clutch (a gear that turns only one direction) is either bad or the nut on the end of the crankshaft that holds the sprag assembly is lose. Remove the stater or the cover that holds the sprag assembly and rotate the sprag gear and it should rotate only one direction. Rotate the large sprag gear with a screw driver wedged in the gear and the engine should turn one way an freewheel the other way. Check to make sure that the nut at the end of the crankshaft is tight or it will not turn the crankshaft.
A couple of things could be wrong. The clutch cable center wire could be frayed and catching up on the outer shell.
The clutch cable is bent or has been hit and crushed.
The outer and/or inner clutch hub is grooved and the friction plates are hanging up in the grooves.
You changed the gearbox oil and put in synthetic oil or an oil with "Special" additives. Synthetics can swell the cork on the friction plates and cause problems. Only use 10w40 motor oil in the gearbox.
A bad needle bearing at the pressure plate or on the shaft
sounds like the sprag clutch has failed. If you can see the large gear that sits behind the rotor and its turning but the rotor isnt turning the sprag clutch has failed. Very costly. usualy you would have a missed start eg not engaging every now and then before this fails all together.
You can play an adjustment with your spring,the best adjustment is when your bike does't have a running cluth situation, and once you press the cluth lever and release it you'll have power just like jumping .and thats it.
if it is in gear for sure and it doesnt move even with the clutch engaged maybe you are missing a piece inside the clutch like the clutch boss spring. or possibly your plates are worn so much they wont hook up. or you are using a very poor grade of oil. Dont take my absolute word for all these solutions but these may lead to some problems like that.
This is inside the casing cover. Just a lever for the clutch cable to connect to, a spring, The clutch release mechanism, a seal and a clutch push rod. The clutch release has a threaded screw for adjusting the clutch and a locking nut for the screw. The only other thing is a metal bracket.
What exactly is the problem? The lever is hard to pull? The clutch won't engage to make the bike go forward? The clutch will not dis-engage, the motor will not stop driving the bike forward? What?
Congrats on the 1200. A lovely well made bike. The finish is much better than on later T5 series bikes.
Usefull mods? A scott Oiler will realy prolong the life of chain and sprockets. Junk the standard silencers as they are very heavy. I took my fairing lowers off too this shed weight. The finish is good on these bikes and I think it looks great without the lowers.
Problems? As has been said the sprag clutch. Particularly on early ones. Which yours is. If it has a rectangular plate on the crank case behind the cylinder block it will be an early one. This is a good thing as a carefull mechanic who knows Triumphs can change the sprag clutch without stripping the engine. 95 onwards bikes had a redesigned sprag clutch. You can fit one of these to an earlier motor. Also get a good heavy duty battery as weak batteries can kill the sprag clutch. I've not had a problem with coils. Though I hear they can play up. If it was me I'd strip out the fuel lines and taps and replace the diaphragm on the tap and clean the filters. Down where the lines join the carbs there are some tiny inline fliters that can get blocked. The bolt that holds the alternator drive gear to the alternator drive shaft can shear. Its located behind the clutch. There is a Triumph replacement. You will nead a hollow shaft and the new through bolt. This will cure it. You can do the replacement by pushing the old shaft out with the new once you've removed the alternator and clutch. Torque on the through bolt is 12nm I think but check. This sounds like a long list but realy if all this goes youre unlucky. I've found my 1200 to be pretty reliable. The motors are massively over engineered.
To keep the black stuff looking nice I clean it with degreaser then wipe over with a light oil. Duck oil or something like. Silicone spray brings the matt black plastics up nice.
Finaly I use Avon Azarro tyres. Long life but seem to work well on a heavy bike like the 1200.
Overall I love mine. I tried a 955i which was great but ultimately its the 1200 I kept as a perfect long distance tool. For town work and general riding I bought a Thruxton, but the 1200 is a special bike not for everyone but well made and just that bit unusual.