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Re: clutch question
But here's my question. I have a alp.4 that I crashed. After the crash the bike would start but when put in to gear it immediately stalled and died. I took it to a mechanic and they said it was a simple adjustment that needed to be made so they did it charged me for an hour of labor and sent me home. When I got home the clutch worked again, but after a few times taking the battery in and out to charge it, the clutch problem is happening again. Does anyone know what the problem is exactly and how I might be able to solve it? The mechanics and some friends of mine have both said it's a simple adjustment, but I don't know what to do. Thanks.,When you put it in gear and it dies, is the sidestand still down? This will kill most bikes..... saftey features Wink . Even if the stand is up when this happens, the switch that activates this shut-off my be playing up and causeing the bike to die.
Does the idle seem to be set very low now?,,,
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Have you put oil back in it ? There is usually a primary clutch adjuster screw on either the end of the clutch or on the worm gear that operates it.make sure it is adjusted right.screw it in until you feel resistance then undo it half a turn and lock it in place with the locking nut.
It is slipping. These big yamahas normally have slipping clutches. Mine slips, I've just learned to baby the clutch. Make sure you are in the most comfortable gear for the speed you are running at. Avoid rolling on full power at low speeds in higher gears. It's the nature of these great beasts. Clutch springs are too weak in these bikes, you may consider an aftermarket clutch spring assembly. The "shudder"(intermittent slipping) is caused by glazing. Make sure you are using the right lubricants for your bike, some synthetics can cause problems.
1)Adjust clutch cable correctly, check
2)Pull the clutch assembly apart, if there is little wear then you have "glazed" plates, clean each plate with 600 grit sandpaper and reassemble...get a new clutch spring assembly (weakened spring causes "shudder", slippage, and consequently glazing). Reassemble and adjust correctly (many forums out there with info).
3)Replace the full assembly and adjust correctly at setup. Adjust regularly....I check adjustment about every 300-500 miles.
4)Pay a shop to do these things for you.
First you need to check to make sure your oil level is full, there is a window at the bottom of engine on the right side. It is a wet clutch. Make sure you are using the right type of oil. Most likely your friction plates are worn or burnt. It is not a bad idea to invest in new damper springs as well, Heat will weaken them over time. see Delphi Vulcan Forum for great visuals and instructions.
or at very low speed. The only way around it is to accelerate very slowly for a bit.
After reading the forums I tried...
-rolling the bike backward about 3' and examine the belt--the belt stays right at the top of the pulley.
-examining the clutch--doesn't appear to be any rubber particles (shouldn't be as it was just replaced!)
Also the drive belt is new. The only other thing to comment on is while I assumed I was buying a new clutch the red writing on the clutch indicates it is a rebuilt.
That's all the info I have--any ideas?? Thanks! ,Slipping won't work for long. We have never seen slipping when all belt friction surfaces are clean. The belt should be totally dry and clean. The metal surfaces of both clutches can be cleaned with brake cleaner to remove any lubricants or oils that may be on them.
Typically real slipping will destroy a belt almost instantly.,,,