Ok so i just got act 100 with 15k miles on it. i was riding just fine all day but on my way home i got on it a lil and when i let off the throttle closed but the bike kept goin full throttle. so i check my pants
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Re: wide open throttle when idling
Shut it off and pull over so tried restarting it and immediatly it started revving outta control. so i shut it off.(i noticed a lil gas comin outta the far right carb.) the throttle won't snap back but i can force it back and i see the cable moving the butterflys open and shut (to the point where the tension on the throttle cable is released)but it won'd stop the revs. now i can't start it without having to turn it off cause it revs til redline. any ideas on what to look at first??? thanks.That would just continue to let gas go into the carb. Without air getting into the system that's not going to be the issue. So if the butterflys are closed and it's still reving like crazy then it's getting air from somewhere.
Check to make sure all your vaccum lines are hooked up well and that there aren't any cracks in these lines or the carb boots. Make sure the carb boots are tightened well.,,
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That's a wide open answer. Is it totally stock with the crossover pipe in the exhaust ( 95)? Do you have two into one racing pipes ( 110)? Do you have drag pipes ( do you want it to idle or run good wide open throttle?)(125) ? Do you have stock air filter? Stock ignition? Dynojet kit?
The correct answer is to tune it. That means: put it together and ride it for 30 miles ( unless its obviously way off) and check the plugs and adjust and ride it for 30 miles again and check the plugs. Once you get it close you can adjust with idle air screw but my limit is 2 and 1/2 turns out. You get past that you need a bigger jet.
It's all in how you ride it....we have a Roketa Maui with a 100 BBK...and it has lasted over 4,000 miles so far. If you do full throttle take offs and run and wide open throttle constantly...even the 50 and 80 engines are being abused. I know many customers that have them...and yet to see a crank failure. Sure they do ride WOT at times...but they take it up there gradually.. not just grab full throttle and go. People tend to forget the angine itself was designed as a 72cc...but bored to 50cc to be sold in America...so the 80 BBK should never cause you a problem. I worked on one for a kid that had the 80 kit..and he has 9,400 miles on it...all he needed was a belt when brought it to me.
There could be a number of things going on here. First check your oil level if it is lower than normal you could have a sumping issue going on here. Next is to pull your air filter off so you can see your injectors, turn the ignition on and off 5 or 6 times to make sure your injectors are not leaking. While you have the air filter off look inside the throttle body with the trottle plate open and see if the IAC pintle is moving in and out when you turn the ignition on and off.This only controls cold ilde. If all is good you will have to reset the TPS.
DRAIN CARBS FROM PETCOCK AT BOTTOM OF EACH CARB MAKE SURE FUEL DRAINS COMPLETELY THEN TURN FUEL BACK ON, IF THIS IS AN INJECTED MODEL DRAIN TANK AND FLUSH THEN RUN IT HARD FOR 20 MILES OR SO, MAKE SURE YOUR OIL LEVEL IS OK
check for air leaks. be sure to check the carb boots - those crack like crazy. Also check your throttle and return cables for proper operation. If the throttle does not "snap" back, lube the cables or better yet replace them with new ones. If all checks out ok then you have to check the throttle plate balance. You need a vacuum gauge such as this one http://www.saber-cycle.com/store/Tools1.html#735 . Turn the screw for each throttle plate until the pressure reads the same for eery cylinder.
It sounds like you probably need to replace the fuel filter, or you may have alot of trash in the bottom of your gas tank, possibly even water in the gas. If you can, take the tank off and clean it out well, making note if there is any trash in it, by emptying it into a bucket so you can examine it. Go ahead and replace the filter if you find any trash or water in the gas tank. If it is ok, then the next thing would be to check the fuel line for aging. Sometimes in rare cases, the hose gets old and weak and when you try to pull fuel through it, it can collapse and essential stop the gas flow, just as if you have turned the gas off, then when the suction is stopped the hose will open back up and appear to be in good shape. You can use your fingers and squeeze the line the entire length and see if it seems to feel excessively soft, if so that could also be causing your problem.