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If bearing races are removed, the bearings cannot be reused, they must be replaced.
1. Support motorcycle so front end is off floor and forks are fully extended.
2. Remove right side cover and remove maxi-fuse.
3. Remove headlamp and headlamp bracket.
4. Remove both front brake calipers.
5. Remove front wheel.
6. Remove front fender bracket with front fender.
7. Loosen but do not remove fork tube caps.
8. Loosen all pinch bolts on top and bottom triple clamps and pull fork tubes from triple clamps.
9. Remove brake hose bracket from the bottom of fork stem and bracket.
10. Remove fork stem cap and remove fork stem nut.
11. Lift handlebars from steering head with upper triple clamp attached. Be careful not to pinch or kink control cables.
12. Remove adjusting nut, seal, and upper bearing out of bearing race.
13. Pull fork stem and lower triple clamp from bottom of steering head.
I don't know what type of bicycle you have, or how modern it is, but the handlebar and steering head are similar on most models. Try to remove the handlebars and steering head from the bike as a unit. There is a large nut at the top of the head tube (where the steering stem goes into). Loosen this nut, and the handlebars and steering stem should pull up and out of the bearing inner races. When you completely remove that nut, the headset will come apart... (including the fork and front tire which will drop out of the headset. If your brake and shifting cables are too short to let you pull the steering stem completely out of the steering head, you'll need to remove the handlebars from the steering stem. If you are careful, the bearing set, spacers and washer will stay on the fork tube when it comes out of the bicycle frame head, so you will know which order to reassemble them in. Either tag them or lay them in the proper order. Now you can clean the bearings or replace them.
It would be a good idea to clean the bearing races at the top and bottom of the steering head too.
Once everything is cleaned and ready to reassemble, grease the bearings and the bearing races and reassemble. When you tighten the stem nut down, make sure that there is no play between the steering head and the steering stem.
This problem is caused by a loose fit of the steering head bearings into their pressed in bearing race cones, if the play is not to severe you can tighten the nut at the top of the steering head shaft to eliminate the excess play, do not over tighten the nut, tighten it enough to just remove the excess free play, but leave a slight amount of play or you can damage the bearings. If after doing the above the steering head is hard to move you either have damaged/worn steering head bearings or you have the bolt to tight.
You are correct that you need to replace the stem, you can not fix a broken stem.
Since you have a replacement stem you may want to take both the bike and the replacement stem into the bike shop and have them do it. It will be fairly quick to replace. There are a number of different types of stems and a couple different diameters that have to be matched up.
The two main types of stems are:
1) type that fits via a neck into the frame
2) type that clamps around the steerer.
You may have a stem that clamps around a steerer. If there are 1-2 screws on the back side of the stem, near the bend, then you have a clamp style. This stem you just loosen the bolts and the top cap and lift straight off. Of course if your replacement stem is not the same type it won't work.
The top center nut turns counter clockwise for stem removal. Either the nut is too lose and is letting the stem to wobble on the bearing or the bearing is shot and needs to be replaced. The forks will probably need to be removed if you need to actually remove the steering stem. Please rate my answer.
Sterling like many others made many different types of faucets and stems. To service any of them you need to remove the handle. Then depending on the type of stem you can make your repairs. Most common Sterling stems were brass. Most common cause of slipping is stripped broach on stem and or handle. The broach is the star shaped part of the stem that the handle slides on. If it is stripped replacing the stem and or handle should do the trick. As for the tighteness of the stem, this could be the packing nut on top being to tight or stem may be damaged. Hope this helps. Please share a vote if it does.
I've seen both the 620 and the 700.
My son-in-law had a chance to ride the 620 2 years ago at Jawbone. He rides a CR500 and was VERY impressed with the 620.
I went on an ATK ride a year ago and Frank brought a 700 along. A couple guys rode it on the beach before I got there but no one rode it after we got into riding. It looks very nice.
Frank White says the 500 is the play bike the 620 is the race bike and the 700 is for fat guys to climb hills with!,,
as in offsets and more importantly the steering heed shaft diameter in the triple clamps (the middle hole where the shaft goes through the frame).INSTRUCTIONS: Click a bike to see the list of triple clamps for that brand.
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Fits Model Configuration Price
X440 2003 Top-Only $252.00
X440s 2002 Top-Only $252.00
24mm(std), 22mm, 20mm,,,,
When does it smoke? All of the time, or just when you start it? If it smokes all of the time, consider piston rings. If you have lots of smoke when first starting only, valve seals and possibly worn valve guides are the culprit.