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If the "pods" are meant to be direct factory replacements, then no jetting is needed. Filters like K&N will come with instructions if any jetting is needed for their installation. You'll need to check with the manufacturer of the "pods" - since you didn't provide the make/model of them here, I can't say for sure if they require a jet adjustment, replacement, or if you don't have to do anything.
my goodness kids do your research. carbs mix air and gas very specifically. any change in air intake will mean you also need to adjust the flow of gas in carbs. even if you use an aftermarket filter in the original air box it will still change the amount of air going to the carb, it might not be as drastic as a pod filter but it is still a change. you will probably need to change the main jets in your carburetor as well as play with the air/fuel mixture setting screw.
Going to the manufactures specs or anybody's specs for that matter won't help you, you have interrupted the air flow, Get an adj jet from Dyna flow, I did the same thing, went back to the oem specs and still wouldn't run. Got a Dyna flow kit and off it went. Those things are expensive but worth it. Plus they are adj. And you get a free dyno check if you ever find somebody with a dyno tester. My Mikunis were a little newer, but I'm sure they got something. I found mine on Ebay. Hope this helps.
this is a topic of much debate. I have never found a great deal of advantage in performance on dynos when fitting a pod style filter as apposed to the stock panel filters. If you are after more induction noise ("****") then a pod filter is the go. If you are not so worried about induction noise, stick with the panel filter as they usually have a pretty larger surface area and are easier to clean and find replacements for.
Check the K&NFilters Website and you'll probably find the right size for your bike. Be aware, though, that changing air filters can lead to less performance as a result of carburetor jetting problems that can take some time to solve, and get your bike running well gain. Usually the manufacturer's set-up works better than home-fiddled-with ones.
i have a sp seat i would like to tryThe only idea that immediately springs to mind is to convert to individual filter pods so you can remove the air-box. That can create a lot of space just in front of the battery so you could relocate the computer without major wiring dramas by either putting the computer in front of the battery or moving the battery forward and going behind (given the routing of the wiring harness I'd think the latter option is the go-er).
The only down-side of this from my point of view is you couldn't use the original inlet stacks so with the pods fitted directly on the throttle bodies you'd probably lose some bottom end and the stock side-covers most likely wouldn't fit any more. ,,,
then just fall on it's face like the ECU lost power. Then it would fire right back up again. I checked the ECU power relay and it was ok. I checked the grounds. OK. I checked the O2 sensor wires. They were ok at the factory sealed ends. I found the fuel pressure regulator hose cut and capped off. I replaced it. Now it runs without dying like before but it has new trouble. It won't run at full throttle for long. Like it is losing fuel pressure. I checked the return line and it is gushing. Plenty of pressure it seems. Lines are ok and O-rings in quick connects are ok. Filter and pick up are clean. It seems that as soon as I hooked it up to the ECU it did this. Bad fuel pressure regulator perhaps? I know one of you Dale guru's must have some suggestions. I am a mechanic by trade and I need some assistance here. Just a suggestion, I have had trouble with intermittent shut offs before, and I found the wire lugs on the fuel pump loose, arching, and draining my battery.... Make sure there are star washers under all electrical lugs…,I just need space for a huge pod filter. I may look into side mounted radiators behind the fairings, a-la Honda VTR1000....,,