Question about 2003 ATK 500

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Bad regulator and starter

Ok I went through all my connections on my bike for the regulator/rectifier/battery/alternator. I get 12.64 volts from the battery on the charging line and on the alternator coil line there are 3 plugs with yellow wires. The two perpendicular to each other I get 0.4 ohms (book says I should get .1-1 so thats good) but I get nothing when I touch either of those yellow wires to the 3rd wire. On the regulator rectifier I get nothing/nada/zilch for any omage going from any wire on one connector to any wire on the other (meaning red on one connector to yellow on other etc etc). The only reading I can get is one the 4 p connector I go red to red and when i go green to green I get ohms I believe it was .1 ohms. So it looks like my rectifier is bad. When I go back to the stator motor I check each yellow connector with ground (meaning I touch the red lead of my meter to the yellow wire and the black to the ground on the bike which is the metal frame location that my service manual shows) and I get nothing no ohms whatsoever on any of the 3 leads to ground. Could my stator or the wireing to the stator be bad? as for the battery part when I touch the negative lead to the battery terminal I get less than .1 Ma so the battery is good. When I start the bike the voltage is 12v even and then when I slowly increase it I can only get it to go upto 12.8v so my guess is something is working but not correctly? I am kinda confused. Should I just replace the rectifier and the stator motor? Or based on my info do I just need to replace the rectifier?

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Who told you to test your R/R that way? When you're testing the stator by looking for resistance between the yellow wires and ground do you get 0 or do you get no reading/infinite? If you get 0 the stator is bad. There's a PDF here: http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/library/diagnosis/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf If you use this diagram you won't have to ask us any questions other than where do I get xxx part?,,,

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

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I am having charging problems with my bike. I have replaced the rectifier and fitted a new battery,also the alternator has been checked and is ok. Would be grateful for any ideas.


Hi, Graeme make sure your rectifier is well grounded in order to check out any main system electrical circuit, you have to start with a fully charged battery 12.5 volts or better, and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. Check the voltage drop at the battery when you hit the starter button, anything below 9 volts you might have a faulty battery.
3. Check voltage at the battery with the bike running at 3,600 RPM should be 14.3 to 14.7 volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you might have a faulty voltage regulator.
4. Make sure voltage regulator is grounded and functioning properly, watch the video below on how to test a voltage regulator.
5. Unplug the connector to the alternator and hook your multimeter leads to the alternator (pin/socket selection does not matter) set the multimeter to AC volts, at an idle the meter should read 16 to 20 volts AC. at 2,000 RPM 32 to 40 AC volts, 3,000 RPM 48 to 60 AC volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you may have a faulty rotor, follow step 6
6. Set the multimeter to OHM'S, connect one lead to the alternator (any pin/socket) and the other to a ground, the meter should read infinity. Connect both leads to the alternator meter should read 0.1 to 0.2 OHM'S. If you are not getting these numbers, you have a bad stator.
7. Check all wiring in the charging circuit for worn or chaffed spots and all wiring connectors in the circuit for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets, which is the # 1 offender.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
https://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf How to test and repair the charging system on scooter
How to diagnose and repair motorcycle charging problems Motorcycle Battery Charging System Explained


Mar 08, 2016 | Motorcycles

2 Answers

04 Harley Dyna Wide Glide,some sort of relay/starting issue. Bought the bike used, withing in a month had a no start issue, when you remove the solenoid cover and push in the shaft the bike starts.


Hi Dave, Arnie was right on target with the alternator/voltage regulator senario, in order for the starting system to work properly you have to start with a fully charged battery 12.5 volts or better. If you have a multimeter, there are a few quick things you can check.
1. Make sure battery connections are clean and tight, especially the "NEGATIVE" cable at "BOTH" ends.
2. Check the voltage drop at the battery when you hit the starter button, anything below 9 volts you might have a faulty battery.
3. Check voltage at the battery with the bike running at 3,600 RPM
should be 14.3 to 14.7 volts. If you are not getting these numbers you might have a faulty voltage regulator.
4. Make sure voltage regulator is grounded and functioning properly, watch video below on how to test a voltage regulator.
5. Unplug the connector to the alternator and hook your multimeter leads to the alternator (pin/socket selection does not matter) set the multimeter to AC volts, at an idle the meter should read 16 to 20 volts AC. at 2,000 RPM 32 to 40 AC volts, 3,000 RPM 48 to 60 AC volts. If you are not getting these numbers you may have a faulty rotor, follow step 6
6. Set the multimeter to OHM'S, connect one lead to the alternator (any pin/socket) and the other to ground, meter should read infinity. Connect both leads to the alternator meter should read 0.1 to 0.2 OHM'S. If you are not getting these numbers you have a bad stator.
7. Check all wiring in the charging circuit for worn or chaffed spots and all wiring connectors in the circuit for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets, corroded pins/sockets is the # 1 offender. Also take the plunger out of the solenoid and use a stiff brass wire brush to clean the plate and contact shoes, and make sure they are tight.
For more information about your issue please visit the websites below and for specific information or questions you can reach me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have nice day.
Harley Davidson Wiring Diagrams and Schematics
Harley Davidson Manuals Mark Workshop
Stock motorcycle regulator rectifier check out

Aug 18, 2015 | 2004 Harley Davidson FXDWG - FXDWGI Dyna...

1 Answer

My CDI burnt out, the Rev counter went mad, CDI smoked, nd bike stopped with blown front & rear bulbs and a dead flat battery. I replaced all the above. a month later it's happened again, smoking CDI,...


Your regulator may have went bad. The regulator converts the ac charge produced from the alternator into the DC volts required to charge the battery. When they fail they can put out 5 times what the battery needs. Depending on your bike the regulator may be separate from the alternator. You should pick up a cheap volt meter. Once you get the bike running, use the volt meter to see what the bike is charging at. If you find the charge is above 14.8 V or that the voltage fluctuates to the extreme, ex. 14.2v, 8.2v, 12.7v all within a few seconds. then the regulator is probable. Another problem I have found is that the ground wire for wiring harness does not get hooked back up. This is a smaller ground wire that may plug into the main ground cable or sometimes is a separate lead connected to the battery. This will fry an entire system.

Oct 30, 2013 | Honda Motorcycles

1 Answer

Alternator not charging battery


ok first check the negative terminal and ensure you have a proper ground. then you have to check the stator and regulator / rectifier, you can check the stator which rarely goes bad by using a multi-meter on AC it should give you a voltage reading when cranking the bike over be careful you could get shocked now with the bike off check the regulator / rectifier by using the diode setting you can check to see if your rectifier is working use the leads and check the wires that come from the stator and the other lead on the wire that goes to the starter you will get voltage one way and the other you shouldn't so you will have to switch the leads. so if you get voltage both ways the regulator is bad or if you don't get voltage at al it is bad.

Oct 28, 2013 | Yamaha YZF-R1 Motorcycles

1 Answer

Battery on 1999 r1 wont charge, changed battery and rectifier still not charging


Hi, Anonymous you may have a faulty alternator in order to check out any main electrical system, you have to start with a fully charged battery 12.5 volts or better, and be able to pass a load test if necessary. "WARNING" never plug or unplug any electrical connector with the engine running !!!
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. Check the voltage drop at the battery when you hit the starter button, anything below 9 volts you might have a faulty battery.
3. Check voltage at the battery with the bike running at 3,600 RPM should be 14.3 to 14.7 volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you might have a faulty voltage regulator.
4. Make sure voltage regulator is "GROUNDED" and functioning properly, watch the video below on how to test a voltage regulator.
5. Unplug the connector to the alternator and hook your multimeter leads to the alternator (pin/socket selection does not matter) set the multimeter to AC volts, at an idle the multimeter should read 16 to 20 volts AC. at 2,000 RPM 32 to 40 AC volts, 3,000 RPM 48 to 60 AC volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you may have a faulty rotor, follow step 6
6. Set the multimeter to OHM'S, connect one lead to the alternator (any pin/socket) and the other to a ground, the multimeter should read infinity. Connect both leads to the alternator multimeter should read 0.1 to 0.2 OHM'S. If you are not getting these numbers, you have a bad stator.
7. Check all wiring in the charging circuit for worn or chaffed spots and all wiring connectors in the circuit for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets, which is the # 1 offender.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/103-02-03-r1-mechanical-help/185605-battery-stator-rectifier-regulator-issue.html
2007 2008 Yamaha r1 STATOR FAULT not charging Regulator Rectifier location...
1998 1999 Yamaha YZF R1 Service Manual R1 Moto Data Project
OEM parts for Yamaha
http://mybikemanuals.com/yamaha/yamaha-yz-owners-manuals

Oct 06, 2012 | 1998 Yamaha YZF-R1

1 Answer

Alright so about 4 days ago, I started my bike ( started slightly slower than usualy but started none the less ) Then I stopped to get gas, but when i went to start my bike again all I was able to muster...


This problem is the alternator is not charging. You will need to trouble shoot the stator, rectifier/regulator. You will need a volt/ohm meter. It is best to get you a good manual. But as always check your fuses. The stator will produce AC voltage in about the 27 - 32 volts AC range at idle. Unplug the stator and check for voltage there at this plug when idling. Next plug the rectifier back in and check for voltage at the battery at idle, should be in the 14 volts DC range. If you are getting the proper AC voltage at the two wires on the stator and only battery voltage at the battery, then your rec/reg is not doing its thing. Hope this helps FixYa up.

Sep 01, 2011 | 1996 kawasaki ZX-6R Ninja

1 Answer

2001 yamaha yzf r1 i installed a new battery. it does not stay charged and the bike stalls. Noticed the red wire to the rectifier and regulator assembly over heated trying to find the main source of the...


Hi, Gobrickconst in order to check out any main electrical system, you have to start with a fully charged battery 12.5 volts or better, and be able to pass a load test if necessary. "WARNING" never plug or unplug any electrical connector with the engine running !!!
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. Check the voltage drop at the battery when you hit the starter button, anything below 9 volts you might have a faulty battery.
3. Check voltage at the battery with the bike running at 3,600 RPM should be 14.3 to 14.7 volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you might have a faulty voltage regulator.
4. Make sure voltage regulator is "GROUNDED" and functioning properly, watch the video below on how to test a voltage regulator.
5. Unplug the connector to the alternator and hook your multimeter leads to the alternator (pin/socket selection does not matter) set the multimeter to AC volts, at an idle the multimeter should read 16 to 20 volts AC. at 2,000 RPM 32 to 40 AC volts, 3,000 RPM 48 to 60 AC volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you may have a faulty rotor, follow step 6
6. Set the multimeter to OHM'S, connect one lead to the alternator (any pin/socket) and the other to a ground, the multimeter should read infinity. Connect both leads to the alternator multimeter should read 0.1 to 0.2 OHM'S. If you are not getting these numbers, you have a bad stator.
7. Check all wiring in the charging circuit for worn or chaffed spots and all wiring connectors in the circuit for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets, which is the # 1 offender.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
bike wont hold charge killed new battery Yamaha R1 Forum YZF R1 Forums
2007 2008 Yamaha r1 STATOR FAULT not charging Regulator Rectifier location...
https://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf
1999 2002 Yamaha YZF R6 Service Manual R6 Moto Data Project
OEM parts for Yamaha
http://mybikemanuals.com/yamaha/yamaha-yz-owners-manuals

Apr 24, 2011 | 2001 Yamaha YZF-R6

1 Answer

Wiring


Lets start with the battery. There should be a relay of some kind with two large wires hooked to it, and maybe 5 other smaller wires. Now the one large wire should go to the relay direct from the battery, then the other large wire will go to the starter. When the connection is made between these two large wires the starter should turn. Now there will be one or two smaller wires that control the relay, ( these are hooked to a post or posts on that same start relay), so it will pull in and make the connection between the two large wires to turn the starter. You can check this with an old school 12v test light, hook a hot wire to one side of the start button from a hot wire here in the relay, (one that is hot when the clutch is pulled in or the bike is in neutral -- clear as mud?) or it can be hot all the time, but the starter will turn every time it's touched. Some old school bikes are wired like that anyway. Go and push the starter button and check wires until you find one that gets hot only when you push the start button. Then back to the relay, pull that hot wire from the start button to the relay and touch it to the small post and see if it will now energize the relay when the start button is pushed. Now once all this wiring is fixed it should turn over the engine, when the start button is pushed and it's in neutral or the clutch is pulled in or it will take off on it's on. Next the Alternator, one of the medium sized wires should come straight from the battery to the regulator nothing in between, thats is the regulator exciter wire, next is the, alternator wires, there should be 2 or maybe 4 wires coming out, and if there are 4 they are in pairs these are the A/C output of the alt. These wires will hook to the rectifier, You should have one wire going to ground from the rectifier, then, these 2 wires from the alt. then a wire that hooks to the regulator as 12v hot out of the rectifier. See this is how the Alternator works is produces A/C voltage (say 28, 30 volts A/c) then the rectifier converts it to 12 volts + - D/c the - negative is the ground wire. The regulator will Check the volts at the battery and adjust the output of the 12vdc from the rectifier and let it pass on to the battery to charge it. I hope some of this helps you, I hope it makes sense. I would love a bike like this. . . .

Jan 25, 2010 | 1978 Moto Guzzi 850 T 3

2 Answers

Battery went flat even after riding for hours. showing 12.7 volts. When ran engine with revs it measured 12 .22. Think it must be rectifier. What should be output with engine running on 2001 softail duce


Proper battery charging will show ~13.5 to 14.5 volts at the battery terminals. Check for continuity through the alternator windings, check each diode in the rectifier stack and look for a voltage regulator which may be defective.

Oct 23, 2009 | 2003 Harley Davidson FXSTD Softail Deuce

1 Answer

No charge to battery headlight ok


i bought a multimeter tested the alternator ok over 14 volts then i tested the rectifier still 14 volts then i tested the regulater only 4volts solution was to replace rectifier and regulator with a boyer bransen power box

Oct 09, 2009 | 2005 Enfield Bullet 500

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