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Re: coolant status light led setting fro dirtbike
I'm guessing because it has an ATV setting programmed in.
No cooling fans on the dirtbike means they run a little hotter so I need to know a good baseline to set it to.
If your light is on all of the time and not blinking then you have version 3M hex in your ecu. This was a version that we did for C'Dale back in early 02 to help them with a problem. You will need to change to the 4K hex to get the functionality of the temp light.,,
a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
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Yes, pull out the kick start. The kick start is a bent metal lever usually located on the right side of the bike.
Set the kick start lever pointing straight up, with the flat rod part of the kick start facing outward from the dirtbike. This will align the pistons, which will help the engine turn over when you kick the lever.
Launch X-431 DIAGUN III
and I realized someone might benefit from it...
Yesterday I changed my oil after break in and when I did I tipped the bike from left to right quite a bit leaning it way over to get all the crappy break in oil out. When I restarted the bike it began to overheat, the red engine coolant temperature light began to blink slowly, then VERY quickly, meaning bad news! The radiator hoses were pressurized and hard as a rock, and I finally had to bleed the collant system all over again to fix it.... Close call! Without my status lights I never would have known about the problem.,Yep, status lights are a great addition for any machine with the S-1000 computer.
But, it should not be possible for the radiator hoses to get above radiator cap blow-off pressure. I also see you added a so-called coolant catch? Is there an outlet to that?......you cannot just hang a sealed up tube onto the end of our radiator outlet. Is that what you did?
That would explain the rock-hard hoses,,,
Some precautions before diagnosing the icemaker optics system since there are two different sets of emitter-receiver optics boards and therefore two entirely different procedures for emitter-receiver optics board diagnosis. This could get really tricky especially when the appropriate tech sheet isn’t handily available. To determine which optics diagnostic procedure should be employed, open the freezer door and observe the right side (mullion or partition side) LED status light. If the red LED is NOT flashing two repeating pulses, this usually indicates the older style emitter-receiver optics boards are used and its specific diagnosis procedure should be employed. But then again, this could also mean that the new optics system IS used but the icemaker just happens to be in the harvest mode - OR - the LED (optics receiver) has failed in some bizarre twist of fate. However, keeping the above cautions in mind, we can assume that normally the older emitter-receiver optics system will NOT have its red LED status light flashing each time the freezer door is opened, while the NEW style optics WILL have its red LED status light double pulsing at each door opening.