Question about 2003 ATK 125 4-stroke

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Ignition bolts any1 got one either new or second hand MUST WORK (obv

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Get a 2 stroke

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

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Can any1 help is it right my rear break lever on my hyasung ms3 125 also works my front left break

yes this is very common for dual front brakes. The thought behind this is that you will get a 60/40 split in your braking from back to front to maintain control in a braking situation.the hand brake gives you additional stopping power in a panic situations.happy riding

May 07, 2014 | 2006 Hyosung MS3 125

1 Answer

Remove ignition switch

usually fitted with security bolts at the factory...the heads snap off when first tightened.
Usual method is to remove the top yoke...drill the bolts the threads...then fit new bolts.

Nov 05, 2012 | 2010 Honda XL125V Varadero

1 Answer

How do i remove the ignition switch on 1993 honda shadow motorcycle

According to my Clymer manual, those are "break-off bolts". It says to center-punch the bolts, then drill off the bolt shanks with a hand drill. It earlier notes that you should purchase new ignition switch break-off bolts when ordering the switch.
Please note that I'm not telling you drill out the bolts, but that's what the Clymer manual seems to say.
Good luck.The local Honda dealer referred me to a local locksmith since they don't cut keys there.
Those are headless bolts that are permanently in place.
The code is stamped on the outside of the cylinder: three numbers, a letter, then three numbers (123J456)
Got two keys for $40; It was $35 for one.
Time to start ridin'.

Oct 23, 2012 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

My yamaha virago 1992 model is only running on one piston. I have been told that its a dodgy cdi unit. i was wondering if it is possible to repair it,or do i have to buy a new or second hand one for...

Hi, before you spend your money, try to switch ignition coils betwen cilinders; if the now dead cilinder starts to roar , then you'll be sure that you have one dead ignition coil wich is cheaper than a cdi.
good luck

Sep 14, 2011 | Yamaha Vino Motorcycles

1 Answer

Any1 no the head bolts torque specs on an srad 750

The image is from the service manual. Please rate my answer. tombones49_243.gif

Aug 16, 2011 | 1999 Suzuki GSX-R 750 X

1 Answer

I have started to fit mushrooms. Put one side in fine. Removed engine bolt other side but engine has dropped slightly so unable to get new bolt in!

dude your engine should have about five or six main bolts holding it in place unless you know what your upto would take it to a dealer without driving it to far but as an extreme temporary solution put a jack under the engine and slowly lift it up place the jack under the weaker side ie side the engine dropped also if ya get the engine up to put the bolt back in run the engine for a bit to make sure nothing else has been affected by the drop and smell for exhaust fumes coming from header pipes best of luck mate but do take to a dealer for a check if it is second hand

Feb 27, 2011 | kawasaki Z750 Motorcycles

1 Answer

Stator is new, ignition is new, spark plug is still working, but still there is no power. what might be the problem of my bike?

I'm guessing that your regulator / rectifier is shot that is if it is not the batttery. Often when you turn on the ignition the whole dash will just die. This is just a bolt on and plug in part and is not difficult to change.

Aug 20, 2010 | Honda XL 125 R Motorcycles

1 Answer

How to replace drive belt on 1996 Harley FLHTC. I have a lift and full set of auto tools. Is it advisable for a home project?

The final drive belt can be replaced using regular tools for the most part. You will need a way to "Lock" the primary chain so you can retorque the compensator sprocket nut and the clutch hub nut. The clutch hub nut is left handed threads so you'll need a torque wrench that will torque left handed fasteners.

First, disconnect the battery. To start with, you're going to have to pull the outer and inner primary cases to get to the belt. This means that all of the clutch components are going to have to come out. This can be done at home if you have a good (I mean good) air wrench. The compensator sprocket (engine sprocket, right hand thread) is Loctited at 150-165 foot pounds of torque. The clutch hub nut is torqued to 60-80 foot pounds left handed thread. Make sure your torque wrench will work with left handed threaded fasteners. Take the starter "jack shaft" off. You'll have to remove the starter as well to get the inner primary off. On the FLHTC, I think there is one bolt on the back side of the inner primary with a large braided ground ******** it. This bolt must come out if it's there. Without going outside and getting a book, I think there are four bolts on the engine end of the inner primary, the two starter bolts (3/8" socket head bolts), two bolts or nuts on the inside at the transmission end, and the one bolt down low on the backside of the inner primary. The inner primary should come off easily once you get all the bolts out. You should not have to pry it off. If it doesn't come off easily, double check for bolts that you may have missed.

Once you remove the clutch assembly, you will see the clutch release rod sticking out of the mainshaft. If you pull on this shaft and it comes out, you'll have to pull the right side of the transmission cover to reinstall the clutch release bearing (throwout bearing). It's held on by a very small circlip. If the rod pulls out, the circlip has come off and the throwout bearing has fallen down into the bottom of that chrome cover on the right hand side of the transmission.

Once you get the inner primary off, you will see the front belt pulley. Now, you must remover the rear wheel and the swing arm to get the belt off. You'll need to raise the rear wheel and support the bike with the rear wheel off the ground. You'll need to support the transmission as well since the swingarm acts as the rear motor mount on the transmission. The rubber bushings in the swingarm may have to be repostioned in order to get the swing arm back into position. I use a piece of theaded rod, a couple of nuts and a couple of large washers. I put the threaded rod through the swing arm with the washers and nuts inbetween the bushings. Use the nuts and washer to "press" the bushing towards the outside of the swingarm, spread the bushings so the swingarm will go back into position.

Now, you can work the old belt out. It is much easier if you can get the front belt pulley off but this requires some special tools. A "pulley locking device" and a front pulley locknut wrench. The front pulley locknut is left handed thread and torques to 125 foot pounds with red Loctite. Work the new belt into position and get the swingarm through it. Do not bend the new belt in a radius any smaller than about 4". Doing so will damage the belt and cause premature breakage. Reinstall everything in reverse order.

When you torque the compensator sprocket and the clutch nut, you will have to use a "locking bar" to lock the engine sprocket and clutch outer drum to prevent them from turning while you torque the two nuts. The engine does not have enough resistance to allow you to torque the nuts. Use two lines of Loctite 271 (red) in the compensator nut (right hand thread) and one line in the clutch hub nut, Left handed thread. Torque to specs I gave you in the second paragraph.

Check for proper clutch operation, proper final belt tension, proper rear brake operation before riding the bike. As you can see, this isn't exactly a "beginner's" job. It is fairly complicated but it can be done by someone with above average mechanical skills. I would suggest purchasing a service manual specifically for the bike you're working on.

Sep 26, 2009 | 2000 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide...

2 Answers

Engine oil it top ov head on 2 stroke yz 80 im thnkin gaskets

Wash the bike then tighten down the cylinder head bolts.

Mar 15, 2009 | 2003 Yamaha YZ 125

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