Question about 2003 Aprilia Tuono 125

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Is black clutch fluid due to condensation?

Had my bike taken into the dealer yesterday to get the hose clips done after leaking coolant all over my garage floor. The guy from the breakdown service pointed out to me that my clutch fluid was black. To be honest I hadn't noticed (got it from new in April and done 3K since). He then said Look at this and took the cap off the reservoir. There was condensation on the rubber seal inside. He said that it was a very common in Tuonos and it's the condensation that turns the fluid black. (He used to work in an Aprilia dealers

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He said so I assume that he knew his stuff). He suggested Castrol synthetic clutch fluid which is less succeptible. Any views on this? Anyone heard this before? I've had a look and it seems that dark fluid is common but people here seem to see it as being due to other things. The main thing I guess is DO I HAVE TO BE CONCERNED or shall I just leave it alone. Is there any problem with it? ,Discolouring of the clutch fluid is a well known Aprilia trait caused by the seal in the clutch slave. I believe some people have lubbed this seal but the majority just leave the fluid and change it when required. Mine has gone black on both Aprilias I've owned; if you replace the fluid it'll probably be black within a couple of months. The problem is not water; Most clutch / brake fluids may be hygroscopic but absorbing water doesn't turn it black. ,,,

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

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It has 266,000 mi after driving about 60 mi you can smell antifreeze but no sign of fluid loss


The fact that you smell it means one of two things:

Either it is getting into the passenger compartment, in which case it could be a pinhole leak in the heater core, with the leakage draining out the A/C condensation tray OR,

It may me a leaking hose at a clamp or the water pump near the block so that the coolant is evaporating on the block and that is what you smell. Look around the hose connections and at the weep hole for the water pump for signs of coolant (darker staining).

Nov 02, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

What happened was my toyota sentra manual car ost power while going up hill and radiator fluid was leaking out badly from lower engine why i think maybe due to worn out clutch or possible head gasket


If the engine overheated with the loss of coolant then expect a warped head. Make sure the radiator hoses have no leaks, cracks or feel spongy. Leaking freeze plugs will cause coolant leaks on the lower part of the engine too. A worn clutch has no effect on the cooling system. Excessive engine wear has possibly happened since the coolant loss. Oil can over heat and cause bearings to fail. It would be a good idea to have the engine checked out to see what the level of internal wear actually is.

Oct 10, 2014 | Nissan Sentra Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Coolant leak under car


I would begin by utilizing our shop's standard cooling system procedure.....
INSPECT COOLANT LEVEL,
TEST SPECIFIC GRAVITY,
****PRESSURE TEST SYSTEM,
****PRESSURE TEST RADIATOR/EXPANSION TANK CAP,
INSPECT DRIVE BELT(s),
****INSPECT COOLANT HOSES,
****INSPECT HEATER HOSES,
****INSPECT BYPASS/MISC. COOLANT HOSES/PIPES,
TEST THERMOSTAT OPERATION,
INSPECT RADIATOR TEMPERATURE,
INSPECT RADIATOR COOLING FAN(s)/CLUTCH OPERATION,
INSPECT CONDENSER/AUXILARY COOLING FAN(s) OPERATION(s)
INSPECT RADIATOR & CONDENSER FOR DEBRI,
OBSERVE COOLANT TEMPERATURE GAUGE OPERATION,

Jan 24, 2014 | Ford Mustang Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1989 Honda gold wing 1500 // I am two days into my vacation and am loosing clutch lever resistance and there is fluid under the triple tree. Thane anyone don


Sounds to me like you have a leak in your hydraulic clutch system. Your clutch lever will start to feel odd as (1) fluid leaks out, reducing pressure; and (2) less pressure reaches critical areas because pressure over a certain level is squirting fluid out of the system.

Leaks like these are often caused by one of two things: (1) a hydraulic line that has sprung a leak; or (2) a leaking / cracked fluid reservoir on your clutch slave cylinder. I am discounting the possibility that the slave cylinder itself is going bad, as that wouldn't create fluid leaks external to the system.

To troubleshoot your system, top off the fluid reservoir and then squeeze the clutch lever repeatedly while looking closely to see where fluid may be leaking out. MAKE SURE YOU'RE WEARING GLASSES OR PROTECTIVE GOGGLES WHEN YOU DO THIS!! A pinhole leak in a hydraulic line can shoot out a thin but forceful jet of fluid, and that's really nasty stuff to get into your eyes (it's bad enough on your skin or on the painted surfaces of your bike). The leak won't dribble all the time, only when you're applying pressure, which is why you'll need to keep working the clutch lever while you're looking for leaks. The location of the leak will tell you a lot.

Though I can't see your bike, I'm leaning towards the idea that a hose or, more specifically, the metal end of the hose, is leaking fluid under pressure. If this is the case, you should be able to obtain a replacement hose/line from a Honda dealer and swap it out without too much of a bother. If you're in the middle of nowhere and can't get to a Honda dealer, it's also possible that a hose shop could fabricate a custom line for you if you're able to show them your old hose.

On the other hand, if you have a cracked reservoir, you most likely will have to replace the entire clutch actuating assembly (slave cylinder? clutch cylinder?). That part should be relatively exposed--it may be mounted to the handlebars out in plain view; you won't have to mess with the actual clutch inside the transmission. Because of the location where fuel is puddling, though, I think this is less likely than a hose / hose connection problem.

Good luck, and I hope this doesn't spoil your vacation!

Jul 25, 2011 | 1989 Honda GL 1500 Gold Wing

1 Answer

Bike is at 63000km and has now gone in for 3rd clutch. Am not a hard/sand rider, do not wheelie, etc, etc Bought the bike second hand and first clutch was replaced at 15000 under warrantee. Now at 63000...


If all your clutch problems have been caused by oil leaks, make sure the mechanic working on the bike this time installs all new seals in the transmission and the crankshaft seal on the rear of the engine. Since the input shaft is hollow, you must replace both the seals (on each end) as well as the clutch pushrod felt. Check the clutch slave cylinder too as these have been known to leak.

BMW updated the input shaft seals a while ago, so once you get the new seals CORRECTLY installed your problem should go away.

BTW, was the clutch done at 15,000 by an authorized dealer?? If so, there should be some warranty as BMW gives a two year warranty on repairs done by authorized dealers. If the clutch disc is worn out due to abuse, then that is a different story. Might be wise to investigate if you are entitled to some warranty coverage due to the leaking seals.

Oct 19, 2010 | 2007 BMW R 1200 GS Adventure

1 Answer

What is the Leak??


Leaking shock absorber? leak from brake fluid reservoir? Coolant from cap top/bottom/or core of radiator? Perished/otherwise unsound radiator hose/hoseclip? Expansion tank overflow? (check the level is not above the FULL mark on the expansion tank) Brake fluid from top/bottom of front brake hose? Brake fluid from bleed nipple? Brake fluid leaking from brakes caliper piston or centre seal?


Jan 25, 2010 | 2005 Suzuki GSX-R 600

1 Answer

How do you replace a radiator in a dodge shadow 1993


These are the instructions for a 4 cylinder motor.

  1. Disconnect the negative (-) battery cable.

CAUTION Do NOT remove the cylinder block or the radiator draincock with the system hot and under pressure because serious burns from coolant can occur.
  1. Drain the cooling system.
  2. Remove the hose clamps and hoses from the radiator. Remove the coolant reserve system tank-to-filler neck tube.
  3. Remove the automatic transaxle hoses, if so equipped.
  4. Remove the fan and fan support assembly by disconnecting the fan motor electrical wiring.
  5. Remove the fan shroud retaining clips, located on the top and bottom of the shroud for most of the vehicles (the Dynasty has them only on the top).
  6. Lift the shroud up and out of the bottom shroud attachment clips separating the shroud from the radiator. Avoid damaging the fan.
  7. Remove the upper radiator mounting screws. Disconnect the engine block heater wire, if so equipped.
  8. Remove the air conditioning condenser attaching screws located at the top front of the radiator, if the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning.
  9. Lift the radiator free of the engine compartment.
Care should be taken to NOT damage the radiator cooling fins or water tubes during removal or installation.
To install:
  1. Slide the radiator down into position behind the radiator support.
  2. Attach the air conditioning condenser to the radiator, if so equipped, with a force of approximately 10 lbs. (44 N) to seat the radiator assembly lower rubber isolators in the mount holes provided.
  3. Tighten the radiator mounting screws to 108 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
  4. Connect the automatic transaxle hoses, if so equipped. Tighten the hose clamps to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).
  5. Slide the fan shroud, fan and motor down into the clips on the lower radiator flange. Install new shroud retaining clips.
  6. Install the upper and lower radiator hoses (including the coolant reserve hose).
  7. Plug the fan motor electrical connection and attach the negative (-) battery cable.
  8. Fill the cooling system with coolant (refer to Section 1 for more details).
  9. Operate the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature. Check the cooling system and automatic transaxle (if equipped) for the correct fluid levels. Also check for coolant leaks.
Here are the instruction for a 6 cylinder engine.
6-Cylinder Engines
  1. Disconnect the negative (-) battery cable.

CAUTION Do NOT remove the cylinder block or the radiator draincock with the system hot and under pressure because serious burns from coolant can occur.
  1. Drain the cooling system.
  2. Remove the hose clamps and hoses from the radiator. Remove the coolant reserve system tank to filler neck tube.



  1. Remove the automatic transaxle hoses, if so equipped.
  2. Remove the fan and fan support assembly by disconnecting the fan motor electrical wiring.
  3. Remove the fan shroud retaining clips, located on the top and bottom of the shroud for most of the vehicles (the New Yorker, Dynasty, Fifth Ave., and Imperial have them only on the top).
  4. Lift the shroud up and out of the bottom shroud attachment clips separating the shroud from the radiator. Avoid damaging the fan.
  5. Remove the upper radiator mounting screws. Disconnect the engine block heater wire, if so equipped.
  6. Remove the air conditioning condenser attaching screws located at the top front of the radiator, if the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning.
  7. Lift the radiator free of the engine compartment.
Care should be taken NOT to damage the radiator cooling fins or water tubes during removal or installation.


To install:
  1. Slide the radiator down into position behind the radiator support.
  2. Attach the air conditioning condenser to the radiator, if so equipped, with a force of approximately 10 lbs. (44 N) to seat the radiator assembly lower rubber isolators in the mount holes provided.
  3. Tighten the radiator mounting screws to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm).
  4. Connect the automatic transaxle hoses, if so equipped. Tighten the hose clamps to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).
  5. Slide the fan shroud, fan and motor down into the clips on the lower radiator flange. Install new shroud retaining clips.
  6. Install the upper and lower radiator hoses (including the coolant reserve hose).
  7. Plug the fan motor electrical connection and attach the negative (-) battery cable.
  8. Fill the cooling system with coolant (refer to Section 1 for more details).
  9. Operate the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature. Check the cooling system and automatic transaxle for the correct fluid levels. Also check for coolant leaks.
please let me know if i can assist you in any further problems you may encounter with your vehicle.
please do not forget to rate and comment about your experience with fixya today.


Dec 27, 2009 | 1993 Dodge Shadow

3 Answers

Fan clutch and coolant flush


If there is another dealer nearby get a second opinion. Repairs these days are very expensive.

Sep 24, 2009 | 2003 GMC Envoy

1 Answer

Just filled engine coolant as light came on yesterday, signifying low coolant. today after about a 15 min drive, light came on again but temp gauge was at normal operating temperature. After I parked i...


i have a 97 grand am. it started leaking anti freeze underneath the car. i went under to check it out, and found the heater hose that goes in the heater core was leaking. i tred to get the hose off and the clamp which was a *****. the clamp was right on top. i finally had to cut the hose, and when i tried to get the rest of the hose off, the damn thing broke it was plastic. now i've got a new piece from the pontiac dealer. he said it was metal, because they all leaked sooner or later. my problem is' i can't get the rubber out of the hole. i didn't mention it is nearly impossible to get to. when i stick my finger in the hold it feels like there is something metal in there. i've tried wire hooks. bent needle nose pliers, screw drivers. i just can't get it out. help

Jul 30, 2008 | 1997 Pontiac Grand Am

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